Wiring 14 ft Jon Boat - Please review my wiring diagram

Hezekiah

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Hello fellow boaters!!

In the middle of restoring a 63 Richline and working on adding electrical features. I have uploaded my wiring diagram, if you guys wouldn't mind critiquing it.

As you can see from the diagram, I want to run dual 12 v batteries parallel to lengthen my usage time for the trolling motor, and to prevent from having to switch between batteries while on the water. I contemplated a switch, but after research - this is the route I decided on. Do you think this is the best decision?

My gas motor has no need for electric.

Another question I have is regarding the LED interior lights. Is it ok for me to run the ground in a loop (poor terminology, sorry) from one LED to the other?

Here is a link to the diagram in case you have issues viewing it inside the forum:
http://s24.postimg.org/wp3djnch1/boat_wiring_diagram.jpg

On diagram, Yellow is ground.

Thanks guys - I look forward to seeing what you guys have to say!

Hez
 

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64osby

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Led grounds and power should be separated IMO. If you have an issue with one light the other should still work.
 

GA_Boater

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Fuses - Only one 20A for the lights and FF? I'm sure the FF has it's own fuse, but if one of the Nav or interior light circuit shorts, all lights will be lost and if the 20A fuse pops, all electrical is lost. I would fuse the Nav and interior lights on separate circuits.

Adding a bilge pump? One more separate fused circuit for the pump.
 

Hezekiah

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Fuses - Only one 20A for the lights and FF? I'm sure the FF has it's own fuse, but if one of the Nav or interior light circuit shorts, all lights will be lost and if the 20A fuse pops, all electrical is lost. I would fuse the Nav and interior lights on separate circuits.




Adding a bilge pump? One more separate fused circuit for the pump.

Hi GA_Boater,
Thanks for the reply. Actually thats a 20a circuit breaker, and then the switch box has a fuse panel built in - 2 - 5a, 1 - 10a, and 1-15a.


I wasn't going to run a bilge pump...is that a mistake?



640sby - ok, so you think I should run a separate ground and power for each LED? Got it. Would it be ok to double up the leads at the switch/bus bar for these?
 
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64osby

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Yes , the lights will be on the same switch. LED's draw very little current. You could also have nav lights on the same bus just a different switch if they are also LED's
 

Hezekiah

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Yes , the lights will be on the same switch. LED's draw very little current. You could also have nav lights on the same bus just a different switch if they are also LED's


Ok, got it. Thank you very much sir. I will make those changes on my diagram before I get started on it this weekend. Everything else looks good?
 

gm280

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Hezekiah, how are you planning to run the wiring? Are you using just the wire and not running them through any channel or PVC piping? If so, make certain that the exposed wires are tucked away where they can't get cut by things moving around in the boat when running. Some folks use some 1/2" PVC pipe to run their wires through for protection and easy of changing wires if the need occurs down the road. JMHO!
 

Hezekiah

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Hezekiah, how are you planning to run the wiring? Are you using just the wire and not running them through any channel or PVC piping? If so, make certain that the exposed wires are tucked away where they can't get cut by things moving around in the boat when running. Some folks use some 1/2" PVC pipe to run their wires through for protection and easy of changing wires if the need occurs down the road. JMHO!


gm280 - That's exactly what I had planned on doing. All wiring will be ran through 1/2" pvc...heat shrinking all splices and I plan on getting marine connectors and wire (tin). The switch I plan to mount to a piece of marine grade plywood inside the battery compartment.
 

gm280

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Sounds like you have if worked out well. Bravo sir, Bravo. :thumb:
 

Hezekiah

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Sounds like you have if worked out well. Bravo sir, Bravo. :thumb:


Thank you. Honestly, I couldn't have done this without the great information on this forum. Keep up the great work guys!!
 

Hezekiah

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No Title

In the case that somebody would like to work off of this diagram, here is the updated version - running the LEDs off of separate ground and power leads, but from the same switch/bus terminal.
 

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GA_Boater

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Hi GA_Boater,
Thanks for the reply. Actually thats a 20a circuit breaker, and then the switch box has a fuse panel built in - 2 - 5a, 1 - 10a, and 1-15a.


I wasn't going to run a bilge pump...is that a mistake?

Then the 20A breaker feeding the switch/fuse panel is fine. Terminology gets in the way at times.

Yeah - A 14' jon boat can probably get away with no bilge pump. Keep a bailing bucket handy just in case. A pump can free up a hand if you need it when things go bad.
 

64osby

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If you moved the bus / switch panel to the port side and the wires to the front lights to port also: you would save some wire. It wouldn't have to run across the width of the boat.
 

Hezekiah

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Then the 20A breaker feeding the switch/fuse panel is fine. Terminology gets in the way at times.

Yeah - A 14' jon boat can probably get away with no bilge pump. Keep a bailing bucket handy just in case. A pump can free up a hand if you need it when things go bad.


Yeah, I apologize for my terminology...I'm learnin'!!

I'll definitely keep a bailing bucket handy...don't tend to ever venture too far from shore...but still not something I want to experience. Will keep the option open in the future.







If you moved the bus / switch panel to the port side and the wires to the front lights to port also: you would save some wire. It wouldn't have to run across the width of the boat.

Great catch!!

Thanks!!

I think I will do that. It will save me some PVC too...I like it!!
 

GA_Boater

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No apologies needed, Hezekiah.

I used to call a lot of stuff thingies. :D
 

fishrdan

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I have my 14' john boat rigged up similar to what you have, dual batteries, switch panel, same accessories. Here's some food for thought on the way I did it, not that it's right or wrong, but it has worked well.

I put the switch panel in the front side of the rear seat bulkhead, so I can easily reach all of the switches while seated. 8ga main wiring goes from the middle seat where the batteries are located, then back to a panel where I have studs mounted for connecting the trolling motor, then onward to the switch panel.

I put a 40 amp breaker on each battery, so I can run the TM off each battery independent if needed (dead battery scenario). Running the batteries in parallel will extend the run time a bit, but if 1 battery is weaker than the other battery, it will discharge the stronger battery down to the level of the weak battery. I have a battery switch in the middle seat bulkhead where the batteries are located, so I can run off either battery, or both. Of course you don't have to use a battery switch, I didn't for years, but it comes in real handy.

I mounted things in marine plywood, but it got funky after a couple years of sun and rain, so I replaced the plywood with cutting board material from Sams Club, HDPE plastic or whatever it is, (cuts and machines like wood, or pretty close). I also bought a Bass Pro POS rocker switch panel which started having switch and fuse issues after a couple years. (It had been soaked in water from fishing in the rain several times....) I ditched that for a toggle switch panel, and placed rubber boots on each switch. Speaking of fishing in the rain, I have used my bilge pump many times, and it really comes in handy when you put the boat up on plane and all the water runs back to the transom.

If you haven't heard of genuinedealz.com, check them out for the tinned marine wire you spoke about using.

I see that it looks like you are going to mount the batteries inside the seat bulkhead, that's what I did. I cut out an opening in the seat top with rounded corners, then rolled the edge over at 90* to strengthen the edge. The opening was cut so 1.5" sheet foam could be cut to line the inside and bottom of the compartment, then a sheet of 1/8" tempered hardboard serves as the bottom of the compartment. Hacked the handles off a couple battery boxes and they slid into the compartment nicely. The compartment is topped off with a hinged 1/2" plywood lid, that a seat is mounted onto.

Good luck with the project!
 

Hezekiah

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 23, 2015
Messages
93
I have my 14' john boat rigged up similar to what you have, dual batteries, switch panel, same accessories. Here's some food for thought on the way I did it, not that it's right or wrong, but it has worked well.

I put the switch panel in the front side of the rear seat bulkhead, so I can easily reach all of the switches while seated. 8ga main wiring goes from the middle seat where the batteries are located, then back to a panel where I have studs mounted for connecting the trolling motor, then onward to the switch panel.

I put a 40 amp breaker on each battery, so I can run the TM off each battery independent if needed (dead battery scenario). Running the batteries in parallel will extend the run time a bit, but if 1 battery is weaker than the other battery, it will discharge the stronger battery down to the level of the weak battery. I have a battery switch in the middle seat bulkhead where the batteries are located, so I can run off either battery, or both. Of course you don't have to use a battery switch, I didn't for years, but it comes in real handy.

I mounted things in marine plywood, but it got funky after a couple years of sun and rain, so I replaced the plywood with cutting board material from Sams Club, HDPE plastic or whatever it is, (cuts and machines like wood, or pretty close). I also bought a Bass Pro POS rocker switch panel which started having switch and fuse issues after a couple years. (It had been soaked in water from fishing in the rain several times....) I ditched that for a toggle switch panel, and placed rubber boots on each switch. Speaking of fishing in the rain, I have used my bilge pump many times, and it really comes in handy when you put the boat up on plane and all the water runs back to the transom.

If you haven't heard of genuinedealz.com, check them out for the tinned marine wire you spoke about using.

I see that it looks like you are going to mount the batteries inside the seat bulkhead, that's what I did. I cut out an opening in the seat top with rounded corners, then rolled the edge over at 90* to strengthen the edge. The opening was cut so 1.5" sheet foam could be cut to line the inside and bottom of the compartment, then a sheet of 1/8" tempered hardboard serves as the bottom of the compartment. Hacked the handles off a couple battery boxes and they slid into the compartment nicely. The compartment is topped off with a hinged 1/2" plywood lid, that a seat is mounted onto.

Good luck with the project!



Fishrdan,

Thanks for taking the time to put all of that out there. You actually answered a few questions that I battled with internally over the past few days, including the bilge pump.

I guess I have some decisions to make before I go to finalize my purchases.

Thanks again for your input.

Hez
 
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