Help needed for ingnition switch wiring on a 1974 aq130c on a Glastron Bayflite.

[jawjohn]

I need some help with the correct ignition switch wiring for a 1974 Volvo Penta aq130c on a Glastron Bayflite. I was replacing the Ignition switch on my 1974 Glastron Bayflite. When I try to start the motor, the switch would not turn over the motor! HOWEVER, if I use a remote starter switch the motor starts right up. I can even turn the motor off with the new switch. Could this be a ground problem somewhere? Thanks for any advice you can offer me where to start looking to solve my problem..

 

[Silvertip]

Are you sure you have an ignition switch for a battery ignition (auto style ignition system) and not one for a magneto system (outboard style). So what brought you to the conclusion the ignition switch needed replacing???
If you have the correct switch, then you obviously wired something wrong. But without any information regarding what you have, what the markings are on the switch, wire colors, etc., we can't be much help since we can't see your boat. For the starter to function from the ignition switch you need +12 volts INTO the switch. In the START position on the switch, that wire then feeds +12 volts to the starter solenoid. As the solenoid engages, contact is made across the two large terminals on the solenoid thus feeding battery voltage to the starter. There are no grounds on the ignition switch.

 

[jawjohn]

Hello Sivertip,

I replaced the switch with the same one (I Think) that was on the boat. It is a Sierra Part #UN12140 and is a four position switch. The reason I changed out the switch was because it would not turn the motor over, and when I would wiggle the key all my gauges would jump around. I just figured it was old and shorted out. NOTE: I should add that I just bought this boat and seen it start just fine at the old owners home. The only thing I have done was add my fish finder. Like I stated before and what is throwing me off is: I can have the key on and start the motor just fine with a remote starter (Then Remove the remote starter ) and it will run just fine. I can turn the engine off with the key! All the equipment works as well like the blower, lights, bilge pump and so on. As far as the wire colors go I am not sure! I think the old owner did some customizing under the helm. But, with everything running fine with the exception of being able to key start it (I AT A LOSS)

 

[NYBo]

What is this remote starter of which you speak?

Your original switch may well have not been the problem. You may have a bad connection somewhere.

 

[Silvertip]

Check the "S" (starter) terminal on the switch with a voltmeter. With the key in the START position there should be +12 volts on that terminal. If there is, then check the other end of that circuit which is the small terminal on the starter solenoid. If 12 volts is not present, the problem is between the solenoid and the ignition switch. If you want to work on electrical systems you need a multi-tester and know how to use it. The reason you can start the engine with the remote switch is because you are essentially creating the circuit I described in my last post. You are doing the exact same thing the ignition switch is supposed to do but you are doing it at the back of the boat.

 

[jawjohn]

Thank You for all the replies. I will start checking all the connections to make sure they are good, and that I have 12 volts to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch.

Again, thank you all for the help and replies.

 

[jawjohn]

Here is my wiring and starter update..
" Wow", after crawling around under the helm checking wires for shorts or bad connections for days on end, and hitting my head on the dash 50+ times, reading the repair manual over and over, replacing the ignition key switch, poring through all the blogs I could find, and of course following all the very sound advice from everyone that sent to me on my I-boat post GUESS WHAT I FOUND wrong by mistake or just plan luck? There are two wires that connect to the throttle / gear shifter and one was discounted. After I hooked it back into the shifter everything is working as it should and the boat started right up. (WELL) everything is working great with the exception of my tech. Every time I power up it reads 31k without the motor even running, but I guess that's another days job coming. ​I hope this post helps anyone else that may have the same issue I had. But, I should did learn a lot more about my boats wiring going through the research-testing, and knocking my head a few time.

Thank You All For You Help..
John