SOLENOID

[jackman1944]

ONE OF THE SMALL TERMINAL GOES TO THE STARTER PUSH BUTTON THE OTHER GOES TO THE CUT OUT SWITCH.

 

[Fed]

Then you need to find out why you have no Volt there by using your voltmeter.

Typically one of the two small terminals (negative) is grounded so that takes care of one side...

The other side (positive) usually starts at the large terminal on the solenoid, goes through a fuse, then via a plug up to the key or push button start switch, then via a neutral safety switch and finishes up at the small positive terminal on the solenoid.

The internet is littered with circuit diagrams that display this or a very similar set up, it should only take you a few minutes to test and find out where you are losing the power.

 

[Fed]

Strangely your post #21 did not appear until after I posted the refreshed the screen? No matter.

OK they have used the ground for the cut out switch instead of doing it in the controller, it makes no difference.

There is a picture on max rules that is probably the smame as what you have.
http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/1973-76_18-25.jpg

 

[jackman1944]

I WILL CHECK IT IN THE MORNING.

 

[jackman1944]

Let me recap----------I have checked everything out as everyone has said and all but one checks show 12.7 voltage.The one that don't show voltage is the 2 small terminals on the solenoid when I push the starter button.I have always thought when a starter won't engage,you cross the 2 large terminals on the solenoid and if that makes the starter engage you have a bad solenoid.Am I right about this action?

 

[sam am I]

No Title

Haven't read all the above posts so pardon if I/this repeats something but this might help........

 

[jackman1944]

Got up this morning and checked the 2 small terminals for voltage now the they show 12.7 volts(WHAT IN THE HELL IS GOING ON?)

 

[jackman1944]

sam am 1 Can't open your photo.

 

[Fed]

The solenoid won't work if you don't put 12V across the two small terminals.

 

[gm280]

Rereading the comments and results, maybe you have another issue that nobody has addressed yet. One of the small terminals at the starter solenoid comes from the key or push button starter and you should be able to read +12.7 volts at the small terminal at the starter solenoid. However, the other small terminal may not simply go to ground. It may go to a neutral safety switch and then ground. So if the neutral safety switch isn't perfectly in neutral, you will not get a complete connection to ground to allow the solenoid to click in. So check the other small terminal to see where it goes and fix that neutral situation. JMHO!

 

[jackman1944]

It goes to a safety switch.This switch ohms good.

 

[gm280]

It goes to a safety switch.This switch ohms good.

Okay, it seems like you know something about ohms and volt as well. That is a good thing too. I am totally assuming here now from previous replacement of parts. So when you have +12.7 volts at the small terminals on the starter solenoid, your neutral safety switch has to be in the proper position for it to read that voltage. Does the starter solenoid click in and pass the current to the starter at that time? Is so and the starter isn't spinning, are you certain you have a good ground on the engine and starter? If the voltage is present and the starter solenoid is clicked in and passing the huge current to the starter itself, then the starter should be spinning. If not, your two choses are, not a good ground, OR your engine is frozen up...no other possibilities, assuming you already changed both the starter solenoid and the starter itself AND your starter battery is good and fully changed as well.... JMHO!

 

[Fed]

In essence this is the same as the other circuits already posted but it may be easier for you to follow.

 

[jackman1944]

I want to think everyone that helped me.The motor is starting now it was a bad new solenoid.

 

[S.A. Baker]

Bad new parts.....man you gotta hate that! Hmmm.. wonder where it was made?