battery selector switch question

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ericcarr2000

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Ok, ive been having some problems with my battery turning over slowly while on selector switch battery 1. I took to switch off of the bulkhead and an baffled at what I found. Something just don't look right to me or am I over looking something.
 

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Silvertip

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Good observation. The center terminal (normally labeled COM) should go to the starter solenoid. The two outside terminals goes to battery #1 positive and #2 positive respectively. With that setup, you can start the engine on #1, #2 or Both and #1, Both or #2 will charge depending on the setting. The smaller wires apparently feed other accessories and can also be connected to the COM (center) terminal. Not knowing what those smaller wires power however, you may want to determine that. If connected to the COM terminal, you can then select which battery (or both) will power those accessories. In operation, selecting BAT #1 connects the BAT #1 positive terminal to the center post. Selecting BAT #2 does the same for BAT #2. Selecting Both connects both batteries to the center post.
 

ericcarr2000

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Ok so what do you think I could do for a quick fix to make sure I can start it from both batteries?
 

Silvertip

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Change the wiring as I described in my post. Move small wires to center post. BAT 1+ to Bat 1 post and BAT 2+ to Bat 2 post. Center post to starter solenoid. It is currently wrong. Consider starting battery as BAT #1. Just so you know, the NEGATIVE posts of both batteries must be connected together with the same size cable as the battery cables. I assume they are already connected but just wanted to make sure you were aware.
 

ericcarr2000

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So all I really need to do is swap that middle cable with the cable that is currently going to the starter then?
And of course put all the little wires on that center terminal
 
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ericcarr2000

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Also you know what's strange is with the current setup, it cranks over fine while on both or battery 2, nit on one. You would think that with the current wire configuration it wouldn't even turn over with that starter cable going to the battery 2 position..
 

Silvertip

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What's strange? As currently wired, when the switch is set to BAT 2 the left outer and center terminal are connected so the engine cranks. When set to BOTH the two outer terminals are connected to the center terminal so both batteries are on line. When set to BAT #1 the center and right side posts are connected but there is no connection to the lug the STARTER is connected to. Stop pondering this and just fix it as explained (twice). It is clearly explained in the fourth post from the top.
 

DeepBlue2010

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Also you know what's strange is with the current setup, it cranks over fine while on both or battery 2, nit on one. You would think that with the current wire configuration it wouldn't even turn over with that starter cable going to the battery 2 position..


Nothing strange. When you are on batt1 position, no power is supplied to the starter at all so it doesn't turn. The current wiring is wrong, you need to fix it as described.


The only thing I would warn you about is not to move the small red wires to the center post before you verify what they are. Safety appliances such as bilge pumps are NOT supposed to be connected to the switch side (the center post) because this terminal is not powered when the switch is in OFF position. This means that if you connect your bilge pump to the center post and turned the switch off and left the boat and the boat start taking water, the bilge pump will not turn on. Safety appliances MUST be connected to the battery side of the switch (Bat 1 or Bat 2) this will gurantee that they are always powered regardless the switch is ON or OFF. The same goes for the power terminal of the Mercathode system if you have one.
 
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ericcarr2000

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Ok what I meant was currently when the selector switch Is on bat 1 position it does turn over, just slowly is all. That was what I meant by strange. I'll switch them bigger wires over next time I go up to it.
 

Silvertip

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You had better go back to square 1 and trace those cables. If what you said about the cable routing originally is true, the engine should not crank on BAT 1. What that may mean is the switch is wired correctly but BAT #1 is weak. BOTH or BAT 2 would then easily spin the engine. Double check before you switch anything. This is what the wiring should look like (again -- typically).

 
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seadogmike

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Nothing strange. When you are on batt1 position, no power is supplied to the starter at all so it doesn't turn. The current wiring is wrong, you need to fix it as described.


The only thing I would warn you about is not to move the small red wires to the center post before you verify what they are. Safety appliances such as bilge pumps are NOT supposed to be connected to the switch side (the center post) because this terminal is not powered when the switch is in OFF position. This means that if you connect your bilge pump to the center post and turned the switch off and left the boat and the boat start taking water, the bilge pump will not turn on. Safety appliances MUST be connected to the battery side of the switch (Bat 1 or Bat 2) this will gurantee that they are always powered regardless the switch is ON or OFF. The same goes for the power terminal of the Mercathode system if you have one.


I agree +1
 

ericcarr2000

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Well.... For those of you telling me that it's hooked up wrong and to 'fix' it, I just got done taking The wires off and I noticed that according to the labeling under the wires that it is correctly hooked up. That cable that goes to the starter is labeled feeder under that wire and them other two wires are going to the proper batteries. So now that I know this I'm assuming my battery 1 battery is pretty much shot, which come to find out is my damn deep cell battery so I guess I'm in the market for a new deep cell now....
 

DeepBlue2010

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Well....... Those of us who told you it is hooked up wrong and to "fix" it did so based on the information ( or misinformation) you gave us. Go back and review your first post and the labels you put in your own pictures. If the switch is wired the way you described, it is wired incorrectly.

If you find out that the information you provided us is incorrect and it is actually wired the right way, meaning the wires are going to where they should be, that is your own fault not ours. In any case, a gentlemen will thank those who took the time to try to help complete stranger who asked for it. You on the other hand, coming back with sarcasm and attitude. Good luck with this problem and any future ones.
 

ericcarr2000

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Oh don't worry I will... For your information I DID label that pic correctly. What I was told was incorrect so 'thank you' to those who took time out to TRY to help but I was correct and if you go back and reread the posts you'll see that.
 

Silvertip

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You were not given incorrect information based on what you told us. All we had to go on was the labels you applied to the photo. You did not tell us what the labels "under" the wires indicated. And that is why you were advised to double check.
 

DeepBlue2010

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I don't see how this newly found ?evidence? adds anything to what you said before or to the feedback we have given you.The labels you are referring to establish the identity of the cable itself. In other words, the label describes the cable?s function.

You have already done that when you traced the cable and determined where it goes to (assuming you did that correctly)



The question/problem was not the identity of the cable, it was its location on the switch.

In other words, you are not asking us what is this cable does, you have already given us this info on the picture. But rather you were asking if the switch is wired correctly.

Read your first photo?

?"Says battery 2 but goes to starter?" ........... Here is a paraphrased version of this statement just to make it a little clearer

"?The post on the switch is labeled Battery2 but the cable itself is connected to the starter"

Now, read what you wrote in post 12

"?That cable that goes to the starter is labeled feeder under that wire"
?
Where is the surprise here?!, The starter cable, which you traced before and know for sure it is connected to the starter, is labeled feeder. Yes, everything is normal so far BUT

It is connected to Batt 2 post of the switch according to the picture you annotated. Now, this is wrong.

Think about this for few minutes before you start typing. It is not really hard logic, it will come to you.
 
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ericcarr2000

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Look, all I really was asking was if the wires that are on the back of the selector switch should coincide with the labels on the front of it. I guess not. I guess what I'll take away from this is before I ask anyone on here questions to do as much research before I ask. I thought I could get a quick response from some experienced individuals. Thank you to those who were able to respond without attitude, it's much appreciated.
 

Silvertip

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Sorry - my crystal ball was in the shop at the time so I had to provide advice based on the info you provided. But as you learned, good solutions require details, details, details. The missing piece in your case was terminal labels. Those labels were visible to you - not to us.
 

jhebert

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This has to rank near the top of the list of the most absurd threads in the history of the internet.
 
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