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14' Lund Renovation

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  • 14' Lund Renovation

    Here's my project...I bought, no...my wife got a bonus at work and bought for me ... this 1974 Lund 14' (1987 30HP Johnson) from a guy at work last year....







    She's a good boat and my son and I put alot of hours on the water in her last season. During the winter here in Minnesota, I had lots of time off the water to think (dangerous, huh?) and what started with the idea of a few tweaks here and there has become a full gut and re-fit project.

    The weather has finally started to look nice and I figured that if I get started now...work in stages as funding allows...I should be able to get her ready before the seasons begin to open in early May.

    First step was to disassemble everthing gut her out to an aluminum shell...



    Mantis270

    My 14' Lund Restoration Project
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

  • #2
    Re: 14' Lund Renovation

    The transom is somewhat bent and has alot of holes where things were mounted then removed and sealed with screws and gobs of sealant. There are also a few rivets spinning in their holes.



    The casting decks and benches were made of untreated plywood and were nearing the end of their life...some of the wood pulled out without removing the screws...





    The floatation foam was fairly waterlogged, green and slimy on the bottom. I did find where a critter had tunneled and made a stash in the foam under one seat...



    Here she is ... a clean pallet:





    My plans are....

    -Remove as much old sealant as I can.
    -Replace/repair leaky or loose rivets.
    -Replace the transom.
    -Reseal all the seams.
    -Paint interior and exterior.
    -Build and install new decks and storage compartments
    Mantis270

    My 14' Lund Restoration Project
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

    Comment


    • #3
      14' Lund Renovation

      Next step on the teardown is the old transom...



      There's alot of old silicon goop and other sealants from where rivets and seams have been sealed. There are also five sets of holes from where various devices have been mounted and removed over the years...to be sure, I decided that I'd take out the splash well too.



      Using a chisel and hammer, I sheared off the heads of the rivets then drilled out the stems with a 3/16 bit. I had to work the plywood out slowly by hammering screwdrivers into each side then slowly walking it out...



      She finally came out and you can see the wood is starting to fall apart...I'll hang onto if for a template.



      Mantis270

      My 14' Lund Restoration Project
      http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

      Comment


      • #4
        14' Lund Renovation

        After all the rivets and wood was removed...it was time to pop out the splash well. I'll clean it up and replace it but this way I can be sure to get everything cleaned up right.





        I was cleaning up the old sealant from the holes on the outside and removed an unused bracket (see earlier photos) and found that the aluminum under the bracket had undergone some significant galvanic corrosion...



        This is what can happen over time when two dis-similar metals are in constant contact where moisture is abundant.
        Mantis270

        My 14' Lund Restoration Project
        http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

        Comment


        • #5
          14' Lund Renovation

          Started stripping the hull inside and out...that was ALOT more work than I'd expected!!

          Before stripping, I scored the paint with 80 grit sandpaper by hand...just a quick scuff then goop on the paint stripper. I used a gel product because it tends to stay on the verticle surfaces longer giving it more contact time. Also, I did it in my garage with the door open just to keep it out of the sun and wind...they'll cause the active solvents in the stripper to evaporate before they really have a chance to work on the paint.

          Most of the paint blistered up and I was able to remove it with a plastic sheet-rock mudding knife. What was left, I used a medium coarse wire wheel on my drill...took me the better part of a day and a few ibuprofren that night. IMPORTANT!!...WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!...As you work the paint out from around rivets and in tight spots, the wires can come loose from the wheel and start flying! Also, every 10 minutes or so, reverse the direction of the drill to keep the wires from bending one way and not doing their job as well.

          To sand, I used 80 grit again with a Mouse sander...you know, the vibrating hand sander that's shaped like a clothes iron and the sanding pads held on with velcro. That point works like a charm for getting the paint out of seams and corners in the bow and along the benches. I went through about 5 or 6 packs of paper. Be sure to wear a dust mask...a popular primer for aluminum contains zinc chromate and you don't want to breathe in a bunch of dust.









          Mantis270

          My 14' Lund Restoration Project
          http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

          Comment


          • #6
            14' Lund Renovation

            To Rebuild the transom, I Gorilla Glued two sheets of plywood together and cut, sanded and resin coated ...



            The aluminum inside the transom cavity was not coated before and I found several spots of corrosion that had almost (and two that had) made it through. Once I got the metal cleaned up, I gave what will be the inside of the transom cavity a coat of resin being sure the corrosion spots were filled and covered...



            The holes from various devices attached over the years and corrosion pits were filled with my good friend...JB Weld...



            Then re-attached the rest of the transom with pop rivets coated with 3M 5200 ...





            Once everything is dried and cured, the drips were cleaned up and the welds sanded smooth and blended...
            Mantis270

            My 14' Lund Restoration Project
            http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

            Comment


            • #7
              14' Lund Renovation

              Alright...I wasn't going to admit this but hopefully, someone will learn from my oversight on a detail. I cut the new wood for the transom and sealed it in resin...went to put it in only to find that I had bought plywood that was too thick ... I was not happy! Anyway, I took a few days off and collected my thoughts and made one the right thickness...slid right in.

              The cap, however was a different story...it was pretty bent. In an ideal world, I'd have made a new one but that's not in the budget. I got one end on then 'persuaded' the rest on with a hammer pushing stainless steel bolts through as I went...



              Once I got the cap installed and bolted down, I cut the excess bolt lenght flush with the top of the nuts...



              Next was to prep the inside of the hull for sealing. I had already removed most of the paint but had to get years of oxidation off as well as rust stains from a metal gas tank.

              What I did was sand the surface to get up the heavy stains then... this has it's hazards and I took plenty of precautions ... sprayed the surface with diluted phosphoric acid, let it soak for 30 minutes or so and then worked it over with a Scotch Brite pad. After a thorough rinse, the aluminum surface was spotless and ready to coat...



              Once thoroughly dried and any remaining debris vacuumed out, it's time to seal. I'm using Gluvit and want to make sure it runs into the seams so I put the boat on a tilt. I left it tilted overnight to cure then did the other side.



              I used the roll and tip method. I used one quart of Gluvit and was able to get the entire inside sealed.



              Mantis270

              My 14' Lund Restoration Project
              http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

              Comment


              • #8
                14' Lund Renovation

                Before painting, I her to a boat launch and set her in the water...one small leak around a rivet that was an easy fix. Other than that, its ready to move on.

                The old splashwell hardware is still in good shape, just needed to be stripped of a few layers of old, crusty sealant and a few bends straightened ...installed with pop-rivets coated with 5200...



                The old transom was pretty bent so I decided to beef it up some this time around. I made a few braces out of some aluminum



                Then installed with plenty of 5200 to seal it to the hull and the bolt heads.

                Outer brace with splashwell drain...



                And the inner brace ... made sure to position the bolts so the motor clamps can bite...



                Mantis270

                My 14' Lund Restoration Project
                http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

                Comment


                • #9
                  14' Lund Renovation

                  With the majority of the interior metal work finished, I flipped her over...30 years of oxidation and water schmootz...





                  There were a couple of dings but the hull is sound and all the rivets are tight...getting down to metal was not an easy task. The buildup was pretty hard.



                  After several hours of wire wheeling and sanding, I got her clean. Then, a phosphoric acid wash and scouring with a scotch brite followed by a wipe down with acetone and voila! Clean and ready to prime!





                  I used Valspar zinc chromate primer. That is some strong smelling stuff! I had a good breeze coming through the garage though and it dried pretty quickly ... what a lovely color!

                  Mantis270

                  My 14' Lund Restoration Project
                  http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    14' Lund Renovation

                    A quick word about the primer, zinc chromate was the material of choice to prime aluminum but is being phased out. The rest of the priming I did was with spray cans of zinc phosphate primer I bought at a local marine shop. These are etching primers and there are others available. Aluminum spontaneously oxidized when exposed to air...nothing can prevent that. So, when you clean the aluminum you're going to prime...prime as soon as possible to minimize the oxidation that the primer has to etch through to get to the metal. Just don't overdo the priming...more is not better. A light coat that you can see through is all you need.

                    While I was waiting on paint to come in, I cut out the plywood for the decks. The front deck was easy using the old one as a template. The rear deck...I had to cut these to match the curve of the hull. Instead of using cardboard, I got a little creative. I cut the boards to the approximate width then put them in and secured them. I then made a little 'jig' out of some scrap plywood and a sharpie...



                    Then, holding the tip of the jig against the hull and keeping the wide end parallel to the center line, I traced the shape of the hull...



                    This gave me a line to follow with my saw with the blade at an angle....worked pretty well! Got a nice even fit.



                    Then I did the same with the other side. Then I finished up the splashwell with the original piece of aluminum with a few modifications so it will stand upright instead of at an angle...



                    Mantis270

                    My 14' Lund Restoration Project
                    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      14' Lund Renovation

                      When the paint I ordered arrived I gave the primer a quick scuff with some 80 grit then a good wipe down. I'm using Interprotect 2000E by Interlux and this paint is THICK! A drill was the only way to go to make sure I had the two components mixed...



                      Then pour...roll and tip...I was really impressed by how easily it spread and how well it covered.





                      I put on two good coats. Also used a brush to make sure the rivet heads are completely covered and to work the paint into the seams and corners. Now she needs to cure ... don't miss that green color!

                      Mantis270

                      My 14' Lund Restoration Project
                      http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        14' Lund Renovation

                        Now that the barrier coat has dried and cured...time for a splash of color. After looking around, I opted for a metallic red by Rustoleum. First I had to mask of the area I wanted to paint...



                        Then started spraying. I tried to take my time with long, slow sweeps and not changing direction with the button pressed to keep from buildup and sagging...It was pretty windy so when I was actually spraying, I closed the garage door then opened it immediately after to help dry.

                        First coat...



                        I ended up doing 4 passes, steadily building a solid coat.



                        After that, I removed all the masking and gave the bottom a good coating of marine wax. Then, rolled her over and put her back on the trailer.



                        Mantis270

                        My 14' Lund Restoration Project
                        http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          14' Lund Renovation

                          Now that all the paint is done, time to work on the decking. I had already cut out the main pieces and am ready to cut the hatches. First was to mark out what I want...



                          Then took my time with a jig saw. They came out pretty well...



                          With the front piece too...



                          Next was to sand everything, smooth off the corners and apply a good coat of resin.



                          Now I'll have to flip them over and cover the other side and edges, hit them with a sander to smooth everything and knock off the drips then they will be ready for carpet.
                          Mantis270

                          My 14' Lund Restoration Project
                          http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            14' Lund Renovation

                            I put in the bench covers. For floatation foam, I bought some of that pink insulation sheeting for walls, the thickest available. It's waterproof and not as messy as some of the other alternatives...just cut into 10" strips at the right length and packed as many in as I could.

                            I wanted a longer front deck so I can get some storage in the nose for the anchor and rope. So, I put together the front section from two pieces of plywood spliced with fiberglass...came out pretty well and is quite strong!

                            The decks are now finished, coated with resin and ready for carpet...



                            I gave the surfaces a scuff with the sander then wiped down with a clean rag dampened with some rubbing alcohol. Next is to spread and trowel the adhesive...I'm using outdoor carpet and oudoor carpet adhesive from Home Depot...



                            A bit of advice when using this goop...if you get some on your arm...especially where there's hair... don't look at it and say 'I'll take care of that later' ... it's much less painful to take care if it right then before it sets!

                            Once the adhesive is down, I put down the pre-cut carpet...



                            Then rolled it smooth with a good bit of pressure using a dowel rod I had laying around to get the adhesive into the backing of the carpet.





                            I then let the glue cure for two days before moving on.
                            Mantis270

                            My 14' Lund Restoration Project
                            http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

                            Comment


                            • #15
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                              14' Lund Renovation

                              After curing, I cut out the hatches leaving some to wrap under...I also put in the hinges under the carpet.





                              Then I just added more goo to the edges and bottom, folded under and stapled in with wood staples. My thought is that the staples are going through the adhesive so they should seal themselves where they penetrate the resin....maybe...we'll see...



                              There it is...then I repeated with the front deck and covered the doors...

                              Mantis270

                              My 14' Lund Restoration Project
                              http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=320389

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