Chrylser 105 Conqurer

alldodge

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Haven't been taking many pics
Photo754.jpg

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Added glass to everything, but did not go all the way up and over on outside stringers. Started to paint everything with epoxy paint but then just did the keel and stringers.
Photo756.jpg

Still thinking about adding one or two cross braces, if I do this it will be a mod to the original design by Chrysler. Have cut all the flooring plywood and it's ready to go in. Also thinking about doubling the thickness in areas when seats and ski pole is secured. Have plenty of 1.5 oz CSM but ran out of 1708. Original was nothing but CSM, so another decision to use 1708 on the floor, might be over kill for this size boat (16 foot)
 

alldodge

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Laid the plywood, screwed to the stringers, put in 6 inch tabbing down all side, then laid full layer of CSM and poly. Used up a bit over 4 gallons of poly and appears I'm going to need some more.

Photo769.jpg

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Tnstratofam

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Looking good. Did you decide to add the cross braces? I would reinforce under the seatmounts and ski pilon as well. I've seen people add extra support by simply adding another piece of 3/4 plywood for seat bases ar each location of a seat on top of the deck. Usually about a 6 inch by 6 inch piece glassed to the deck. Sometimes with tee nuts already mounted in them before glassing.
 
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alldodge

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I started to sketch some things out to do some added wood, but again decided not to go that route. Figured I will add more glass to stiffen it up and use closed cell 4 pound foam should make it solid. Would like to know how the boat preformed when original. It's become a fun project and try to put it back original for the most part. Never has restored a boat for resale, but most folks that want older stuff in most cases like it done in original format.

Later will be looking for blue and black Astor turf
 

Woodonglass

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I understand that. Just wondering why you feel that a 16 ft boat needs this extra stiffness? You realize it will double your costs and there is really no need or added benefit gained over the 2lb. I don't see any thing about your build that would require the 4lb foam. But it's your boat and your call.Like I said, just curious.;)
 

alldodge

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One layer of 1/2 plywood, two 3/4 stringers, looked kind of springy to me. So what's an extra 200 to stiffen things up. I like the way it came out with my Formula
 

hadaveha

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that girl will be pretty when u get here finished I allways loved them, if you had to quess how much water weight would you say you got out of her
 

alldodge

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Several bags of foam and would guess around 300 to 350 pounds, but don't know how much it soaked up just sitting outside
 

hadaveha

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Wow that twice as much as your outboard, are you going to use the Chrysler motor, I know they get a bad rap but I love them so simple. Even a dummy like me can piddle with them
 

alldodge

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I'm looking for another Chrysler 105 or 120. If I'm unable to find it I'll try to find a Force 1994 or older 120 or so and put my cowling on it (Tip from Frank)
 

hadaveha

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There is a guy on Craigslist with a 83 baylinner with a 125 white force here in Alabama I think it's 500 bucks the boat is shot, but he says the motor runs great
 

alldodge

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Thanks, didn't find that one but another for 900 and motor didn't run. Found one up in Cinnci (force 120) on a need to repair Bayliner, to far to drive right now. Have time either way, no hurry
 

Arawak

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Just curious why you're going to use 4# foam??:confused:

Wood, the original foam, if it's anything like the other Chryslers I've worked on, was at least 4lb. Possibly more. That's why there were no cross members... that foam was structural.
 

Woodonglass

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Wood, the original foam, if it's anything like the other Chryslers I've worked on, was at least 4lb. Possibly more. That's why there were no cross members... that foam was structural.

Most of the boat MFG's that designed hulls where foam was used as the structural element either had no stingers and bulkheads or some had only one central "Keel" stringer and the rest of the hull was totally foam filled and it was the 4# foam. This boat has 3 stingers soooo...based on it's design, it would not indicate that the foam would be anything more than flotation. All flotation foam aids in structural support to the hull and it's always a good idea to add it, but some hulls depended exclusively on the foam for their structural integrity. I honestly don't think this hulls design is one of those.

But being an Old Dumb Okie...I could be wrong!!!!:noidea: Just stating my opinion based on my research and past experiences.
 

Arawak

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Chrysler bought Lone Star boats and West Bend engines to get into the marine business. Lone Star was already using foam construction back in the sixties. The process was called FOAM PAC. My eventually abandoned Charger 118 conversion was completely rotten inside, but solid as a rock before I removed the old waterlogged foam.


Those were great boats. Quiet, solid, rode well, and unsinkable long before the USCG regulations required it. Chrysler motors are also routinely bad mouthed by people who have never worked on on a motor, or by the paintballer class of marine mechanic who have no passion for motors. They suck gas, and aren't anywhere near their HP rating, but they give more power per pound than pretty much anything and they will run poorly for weeks before they actually die.
 

alldodge

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The keel is only 3 inch tall and the two stringers are 4 1/2 and are the only attaching pints to the deck. The keel is about 3 inches below the top of the stringers. Before I put the deck on this was one flimsy boat. Had a hard time glassing in the stringers and not breaking them loose during the process
 

Arawak

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Here's what mine looked like, as i was removing the foam:

fetch
 
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