Celebrity rebuild

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Jul 18, 2015
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Thanks Dsr, I got the rest of the stuff pulled out tonight. Its a naked hull now with the exception of the engine bunks and the transom. The majority of the transom seems decent just very wet. I'm sure looks are deceiving. I'm wondering if there's any advantage to taking the hull off the trailer and blocking it for reconstruction?
 

Bayou Dave

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Thanks Dsr, I got the rest of the stuff pulled out tonight. Its a naked hull now with the exception of the engine bunks and the transom. The majority of the transom seems decent just very wet. I'm sure looks are deceiving. I'm wondering if there's any advantage to taking the hull off the trailer and blocking it for reconstruction?

I'm no expert but I would leave it where it is. IMHO the less moving of the hull the better.
 

Woodonglass

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PIX of how she sits on the trailer will help us to guide you on whether or not she needs additional support.;) Is this a Roller or Bunk Trailer??
 
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Not a great picture. I'll take more when I'm home from work. Its a roller trailer. The whole thing seems like a bowl full of jello. It seems like it would be easy to take off the trailer and block it up level with where the deck used to be. Then I can shoot a laser transit line with a reference point for stringers, engine bunks and everything else.
 

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Woodonglass

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It looks like that's a Roller Trailer...Correct? If so, you for sure need to either put her on a separate cradle or add additional supports to her on the trailer. Those rollers are NOT gunna be adequate support during the restoration.
 
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Yep roller trailer it is. Seems to me like it would make sense to get it blocked good in a bunch of places level. Thanks WOG!
 

BevoHoward

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Jun 23, 2015
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WOG I have a couple questions if you don't mind Sir. When I start my restoration I don't plan on removing the cap. I have a 85 Sea Ray. Pretty much the same boat as Goldie's. Will the roller trailer provide enough support as long as the cap is still on?

Also: I have some spruce stock that are for aircraft wing spars. What are your thoughts on using this for stringers?
 

Woodonglass

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Bevo, You should start your own Thread for your project and I'll be happy to help you with your project. We don't want to HiJack 89celebrity's project!!!:nono:
 
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So I have a question that's not quite relevant yet, but I'll ask anyways... does any one know where I can find the rubber for the windshield that locks the glazing in? It's kind of a triangular shape and is pretty rotten and weather cracked on my boat. Also there's a strip of rubber that hides a channel where the windshield screws down that has shrunk and looks like hell. Seems like these might be somewhat universal? I've searched with no luck.
 
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I found some rubber on ebay that I think will work. A few more progress pictures. Had a few minutes after work the last few nights to rip into it a bit more. Transom is 95% out. All and all nothing has been overly terrible other than the tyvek suit and the mask. I'm not a huge fan of ppe. I think all that's left are the engine bunks and the ski locker floor to tear out. The last picture shows the hull on the trailer. I think I'll pull it off and block it. It doesn't seem to weigh that much anymore!
 

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Got the engine bunks out tonight. Still need to do some excavation of transom and start grinding where the old used to live in preparation for the new stringers. I whipped up this engine bunk quick. I still need to add a piece to the side to beef it up. Can I leave a slight edge of the old resin to use as a locator or should everything be smooth?
 

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Grub54891

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What I did was take ton's of measurement's, and pictures with a tape measure laid out in the pics. I marked the hull with tape for reference before grinding, and replaced the tape with sharpie marks as I ground the tape away.Then ground it down to clean glass, then laid in a complete new layer. I did not want any oil's or anything to mess up the process. I suppose you can leave a shadow line for reference and it would be fine.
 
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It seems like I have a large build up of glass where the old stringers were. Maybe a 1/4 or so. The old stingers sat right on the hull or seemed to. So where a stinger used to be it looks like what is shown in my awesome drawing. I was under the impression that the old glass just needed to be ground down to rough it up and didn't need to be brought down to the hull. Is this wrong? Or do I taper that area back down toward the hull? I'm getting ready to do some grinding and need to know how far to go.
 

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Mark72233

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I ground out all the old PB from where they bedded the stringers and bulkheads onto the hull. I wanted the glass as flat and clean as I could get it. I probably did more work then I needed to but I had no clue what I was doing so I went with go overboard and created tons of grinding dust.
 
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As much as I enjoy grinding and nasty jobs I would rather do as little grinding as possible. I know, I know call me crazy. I'm ready to start putting stuff back in! Living in Midcoast Maine there are probably a dozen boat yards and boat builders in the area. I'm going to start calling some to see if I can get the hook up on resin.
 

Woodonglass

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As long as you get the edges of the original channels ground off you should be OK. The actual bottom of the channel where the stringer sat doesn't have to be perfectly flat and smooth. In fact if you want you can use pieces of 1/2"foam glued to the bottom of the new stringer to hold it up off the hull and then fillet and tab it in to the boat. That's what I'm gunna do on my next one. The Glass tabbing and fillets is what gives the stringers their strength so all that PB bedding is actually not needed. As long as you have a fillet to aid the tabbings in their transition to the deck then you're good to go.
 
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