Celebrity rebuild

Joined
Jul 18, 2015
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29
Well I've been reading a bunch on here gearing up for my rebuild. I was given a 89 Celebrity 190 bowrider with a 5.7 alpha 1. The interior is shot as are the deck and stringers. My mother owns a industrial sewing machine and I'm starting to get in tune with sewing vinyl. My father and I decided that this would be a lovely father son project so here we are pulling rotten bits of fiberglass and plywood out of the boat. We're about to pull the top cap off to really start getting dirty. My question is I've seen material lists and other rebuild posts but not a great explanation of what people are using on what and where for csm and roving. I'd like to order at least a starter list of supplies to get started when we get to that point. Also it seems like most people are going through us composites are there any cheaper better places? Thanks
 

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gm280

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 26, 2011
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:welcome: aboard celebrity190br. Great having you aboard...

I see you have a boat with a little problems. Of course it looks overwhelming at this stage, but if you have the time, money and willingness, you come to the best place on the net to accomplish your project. The boat actually has some nice lines, and I can see a nice boat after it is finished. Of course you have to remove all the rotted material and soggy junk from the boat and remove the top cap. And since you've read a few other projects on here already, you probably have a pretty good idea how to accomplish the demolition... As for a list of materials. I guess you are going to use polyester 435 resin and CSM and 1708 for your rebuild. That's what so many other use. And it really depends on where you live as to which company will be the better for your material. US Composite is located in Florida and services a larger portion of the South East area. You have to remember that regardless who you go with, the shipping can get a little pricey because of the hazmat fees they all charge. So bare in mind that that hazmat fee is on top of the usual shipping costs. If you like, check the area around where you live to see who offers such materials and their cost. For a general list of material, let WOG chime in with his ideas. He's very knowledgeable and offers much assistance as well... One last thing. We love pictures on here. So you have to post a lot of progress pictures and we will assist you along your project... :thumb:
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2015
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That write up is what I needed wog. Mdo plywood is alright huh? It just so happens I have 2 sheets kicking around in my garage from a house I just finished.

Gm280 thanks for the encouragement. I'm pretty excited to get things looking better. I live in Maine and would think I could probably find a place local that has what I need whereas we have quite a marine industry. Tomorrow we're pulling the top off and I'll post more pictures.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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MDO Not MDF Big Difference between the two!!! Make sure you know which is which.
 
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Jul 18, 2015
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I'm fairly certain its MDO. I used it for exterior ceilings on a porch and asked for MDO from the lumber yard. Unless they sent something else.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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MDO has a Resin coated "Paper" outer layer. Very smooth. Used a lot by sign makers. MDF is also known as "Chip Board" due to it being made from Large Chips of wood glued together and Pressed together under high pressure.
 
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Jul 18, 2015
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Yep its MDO. My father has some experience in the boat building world as he built boats back in the 70's. He wants to use southern yellow pine 2x for the stringers. I have a bunch of 2x10 syp that I tore out of a barn roof. This seems a bit overkill to me from what I've been seeing others do. His concern is getting the glass over the sharp edge of the plywood any thoughts?
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Plywood is actually stronger due to the laminations. You can use a router to round over the sharp edges. Study the fabrication info in the link and make your "Gut" decision. SYP IS an excellent wood for boat building.
 
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Jul 18, 2015
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Got the top off. Now we can really get down to business ripping and tearing. The cap was heavier than expected. My help complained. I think im going to go with the SYP as I have it sitting in my garage and it was free. I've decided to call the boat "Free Bird" as lots of stuff so far has been free.
 

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Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Did you take a LOT of measurements prior to De-Capitation to ensure you can put her back exactly the way she was. The hull will tend to flex and move a bit while your working on it and you need to make sure when the stringers and deck get glassed in that the hull measurements are exactly as they were so the cap will fit back correctly.;)
 
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Yeah we got measurements. Hopefully next weekend I will be able to spend some time cutting the junk out. Last weekend I spent a few seconds wet sanding the gelcoat. It shined up really well into a deep purple. Unfortunately I had red in mind. I spent some time looking at your thread WOG of your paint procedure and boy your boat looks sweet so I figured if I was to go through all this trouble I probably should have it the color of my choice. My boat though will most likely not be a trailer queen and noticed that the paint you used was not for a boat that will stay in the water. I'll have to do some research on here about paints. Thanks for your help so far. I'll post more pictures this weekend.
 

Grub54891

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Jun 17, 2012
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I left the cap on and did everything up to the helm first. then pulled the cap,sisterd in the stringers and completed the deck and carpet,installed the cap. That kept the hull from moving around quite a bit.
 
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Grub. That thought crossed my mind. We took some measurements but I really like that idea. Kinda a fail safe method. Im thinking of erecting some kind of 2x apparatus with ratchet straps to lift it on and off in the future. I think we'll tear whats left out then put the cap back on. Glass in everything we can then take the cap back off and finish up. Lots of steps but seems to me like a safe method for my old man and I. I am a carpenter not a boat builder after all.
 

Woodonglass

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Yeah we got measurements. Hopefully next weekend I will be able to spend some time cutting the junk out. Last weekend I spent a few seconds wet sanding the gelcoat. It shined up really well into a deep purple. Unfortunately I had red in mind. I spent some time looking at your thread WOG of your paint procedure and boy your boat looks sweet so I figured if I was to go through all this trouble I probably should have it the color of my choice. My boat though will most likely not be a trailer queen and noticed that the paint you used was not for a boat that will stay in the water. I'll have to do some research on here about paints. Thanks for your help so far. I'll post more pictures this weekend.

If you want a Paint that will allow you to leave the boat in the water for extended times, this stuff is pretty good from what I've learned. It's pretty pricey... Comes in about any color you can imagine AND they'll custom mix any color you CAN imagine!!!!;)

http://supermarinepaint.com/marinepa...allon-3p10.htm
 
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Jul 18, 2015
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Thanks WOG. I think I'll only paint the purple section so I'd probably only need a gallon. Although its tempting to fix all the little imperfections on the top half and shoot it. It's nice to have such a helpful community! Thanks for your help so far!
 
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Jul 18, 2015
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Well I spent about 3 hours cutting the deck out and removing the old foam. The foam was the biggest pain in the butt. We did a did a core sample of the transom and its gone. My father was really not excited about removing the engine to redo the transom but I'm pretty okay with it. Now I have to drag it back to my house to pull the engine with the tractor. I'll post pictures tomorrow when I go over to empty the gas tank and tow it home.
 
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Jul 18, 2015
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We're trying to get time in on the boat Friday nights until things wind down some. We got some stringers cut out tonight. Still need to get the tank drained and pulled and I need to research how the engine comes out. Hopefully I can sneek away from the house project this weekend and at least get the tank drained.
 

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Boy.. a few hours and a tractor make things look a lot different. Got the tank drained, out drive off, most of the rest of the stringers cut out and engine pulled. Seems like I'm getting some what closer to being able to put things back in.
 

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