1960s Starcraft: Paint and Primer Questions

Mflo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
35
Hi all,

I've been following the many great threads on this forum for the last few months and thought I'd ask for some much needed advice. A few weeks back I started prepping my 1960s aluminum Starcraft to seal it and give it a new paint job. The last paint job was cracking in certain areas and, even though I've used it for several seasons, its always leaked (as long as I've owned it that is). Anyway, I'm doing this on a limited schedule, budget, resources, and skill level so please keep that in mind. Also, I live in an apartment building and don't have a work space. After reading through many threads I decided to take these steps to complete the job. I'm about half way through and could really use some advice on where I'm at and the direction I should be going considering what I've done so far. I’ll post my questions at the end.
  1. I’ve stripped the top paint with Airplane stripper from AutoZone. However, I only took the top coats off and left most of the factory finish (I’m assuming that’s what it is) on since it’s adhering well (see image).
  2. I cleaned the seams and rivets well and sanded the hull using 80 grit sand paper.
  3. I cleaned the entire hull at the car wash pressure spraying the seams in rivets and cleaning with the scrub brush.
  4. After, I cleaned the hull with acetone to remove any grease or grim.
  5. Tomorrow, I will be applying Gluvit to the seams and rivets and letting it sit for the recommended 48 hours.
  6. After the Gluvit hardens I am going to lightly sand the gluvit and “acid wash” the hull with a white vinegar and water mixture.
  7. I’ve purchased several shake cans of Rust-Oleum “Aluminum Primer” but I may exchange for self-etching (that’s one of my questions).
  8. After I’ve primed the boat, I’m going to use tractor paint from Tractor Supply as recommended by Iboat member “Woodonglass.” http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...-w-pics/page16
So here are my questions.
  1. I removed the topcoats off the hull but the base paint remains (sanded). However, there are several areas where the bare metal is exposed. Do I need a light coat of self etching on the entire hull or just the bare metal parts. Will the self etching eat away at the base paint?
  2. If I use a light coat of SE primer what primer should follow? And how much primer should I be putting on total?
  3. Are there any steps I should be taking or products I should consider?
Any advice is greatly appreciated. I’m a real novice at this and don’t have the resources to do as great a job as I’d like to do.
 

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dozerII

Admiral
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
6,527
:welcome:Yes you do need just a light coat of self etching primer on just the bare aluminum. Then a coat or two of primer, I prefer to use products from the same manufacturer so there are no surprises, a light sand with 220, a wipe down and your color coat.
 

g0nef1sshn

Lieutenant
Joined
Feb 24, 2015
Messages
1,291
you're planning on putting the glove it on the inside of the hull right?

also I wonder if it would hurt to just use self etching primer on the entire boat since it looks to be mostly stripped anyhow. I would probably just finish stripping it completely myself and then I'll finish then Self Etch whole thing
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
That green stuff is Zinc Chromate primer..leave it on if ya can. But yea..spot prime..prep..paint. Good as new.
 

Mflo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
35
Thanks for the advice, all. Yes, I'm going to Gluv-it the inside of the boat but plan to do the outside first and see how water tight it is. I'm glad to hear the green stuff is Zinc Chromate. It now makes sense why it is adhering so well. It's on the inside of the boat as well. Does that mean I can simply scuff and paint the inside?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Based on what I can see, I'd wash her down well with Tri Sodium Phosphate (a De-Greaser that you buy at Lowe's) Then I'd Sand well with 180 and do a final wipedown with Acetone. Spot prime any barespots with SE Primer with just a light coat. I do NOT recommend the Majic Tractor Paint Primer any more. They have had a LOT of issues with it in the stores with shelf life. Many of our members have taken it home and opened it up to find the solids have separated from the mix and cannot be mixed again. I ONLY use the Rustoleum Bare Metal Primer from Lowes Now. I've NEVER had any issues with it and it's Totally compatible with the Majic Tractor Color paint. It still use the Paint and the Hardener and the reducer from Tractor Supply just not the primer. I'd shoot two coats of primer with a light Knock down between coats with a 3M scotch brite pad and then shoot the first coat of color with the hardener. Make sure to let the paint cook with the Hardener in it. You can recoat in 4 hours. If your temps are in the 80's or 90's use a 60/40 mix of Mineral Spirits and Acetone for your thinner to give the paint more time to settle and reduce Orange Peel. If you get OP Use more MS and cut back on the Acetone. Only mix 2 cups of paint the first time to get the feel of the paint and the mix right and the gun settings. After the first coat and 4 hours of dry time, wet sand with 320 grit and shoot the second coat. REMEMBER you can't use the paint that's had hardener added after 8 hrs!!!
 

Mflo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
35
Thanks Woodonglass,

Mind if I ask some follow up questions?

Does the Bare Metal Primer come in shake can? and, if so, is that just as good. I don't have a paint gun or compressor and I don't think the apartment manager would appreciate my spraying in the parking lot. Also, there are no easily accessable power plugs. I've been doing this project on the sly in the apartment (a few hours here-and-there in the morning or evenings).

In reference to the final coat, I'll be rolling the paint and not shooting it. In that case, do I still mix the mineral spirits and acetone with the paint? I was just going to use the mixture of hardner and reducer from your earlier post. Will that work too?

Oh, by-the-way, I just watched the youtube video of roll n' roll and it does seem faster and easier than roll n' tip.

Looking forward to hearing from ya,

-Mike
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
All the instructions for mixing are in the link. The Primer does come in rattle cans but also in quart cans and can be rolled as well.
 

Mflo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
35
Hey, everyone. I'm starting a new project but realized I never posted pictures from this project. I really appreciate the advise, especially the advice from Woodonglass. It really turned out great.
 

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