2000 Bayliner Capri 2050LX sole, stringer, transom repair

[Erichlg]

Hello! I'm in the process of tearing this boat down to some good wood with the intent to build it back correctly. I have spent many hours reading posts and sticky's but I would like to share my experience and get specific advice/ general input. Since I'm new to this forum I'll post pictures once I'm able.

 

[Erichlg]

Some members have some information at the bottom of their posts (their boats or quotes). How do I do that?

 

[Erichlg]

My question today is: when do I stop tearing out the floor? Is stopping with good wood and building it back from there ok?

 

[Quantumn]

:welcome:Welcome aboard Erichlg, always great to see new projects getting underway. Seeing as you have read some of the forums and other members boat projects, I am sure you know the basics of whats involved in a restoration project. Knowing when to stop is mostly a judgement call, but from my measly perspective, though you may be down to good wood/structure, if your past 80% in removal, probably better to just go the extra mile. Remember that you can use the existing wood to help with new stringers/bulkheads, as templates that is. I am sure others will chime in here soon with better advice. I consider myself a rookie when it comes to boat building, but know just enough to keep myself out of trouble. Lol.
Also to note, if your floatation foam is in the least wet/waterlogged, that will be a major priority to get removed. I would suggest exploritory sections to be removed for inspection. Not only is it a safety hazard, it will only seep into your new structure and put you right back where you started in no time. Just a thought Erichlg.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

My question today is: when do I stop tearing out the floor?

Well if you start on it today you could be done tearing it All out by tomorrow .

Honestly I've found just taking a saw zaw with a long blade and zipping them out is quicker than trying to scab in a section or three. In fact the whole thing goes a lot smoother when its all cleaned up and tackling it fresh. But scabbing in is also possible if you've determined that you have sound wood and solid glass.

And thats my answer for today..only one a day so see ya in 24 :welcome:

PS. Ill give you a freebie 2nd answer..Your signature is located in your profile or user settings..click on your name up top to open a navigation panel. Look for a thing called 'signature'..

 

[gm280]

Well :welcome: aboard Erichlg. Yes tearing out things is kind of shocking when you see all the rot and things you didn't even know were suspect. But I look at it this way. You already took the time and effort to tear out the rotted things, why not remove it all and go back with clean new fresh material and then you know it was done correctly and will last for an amazingly long time. I too have a project boat I'm presently rebuilding and know the type work you have ahead of you. But if you're willing to work thought such itchy, smelling, sweaty things, you will arrive with a super quality boat when finished and can take pride in knowing you did it yourself too... Let's get going... :thumb:

 

[Erichlg]

Thanks for making me feel welcome. Let me bring you up to speed. The boat was a trade in at a local dealership. It was sitting beside a storage building out of the view of the public. My friend told me about the boat and I went to see. Here is what I saw.

 

[Erichlg]

Here is the boat at home after a bath.




It only has some soft spots in the back.


The vinyl is good but the wood bases are rotten.

 

[Erichlg]

Not quite high enough. :help:


A little re-rigging and no problem.

 

[Erichlg]

I cut out all of the rotten deck.


Foam diggers.


I feel the same way but it will be all smiles when we are on the water.

 

[Erichlg]

Transom is out.


Engine mounts, rear flotation boxes and rear stringers out.

 

[Erichlg]

Here is where I am now and the reason for my first question.

 

[Erichlg]

Ok. Please notice the last picture (in the previous post). I asked the question of how far should I remove the wood. That was before I peeled back the fiberglass from the stringer. I think Quantumn and the rest of you are on the right track; I too far in to quit now. The major obstacle for me now is the consoles.


They are part of the top cap and extend to the floor. However, I am able to raise them about 2" no problem. I think I will try to lift and support them and work under them for now.
This is what I found today.

This is the starboard, bow, storage compartment.

 

[Corjen1]

Well Sir, welcome to dry dock!! For me I found it easier/more access to decapitate the boat. You can put a couple 2x4's vertically, on the inboard edges, under the councils to keep them raised up... be cautious of warping. Check out Goldie627 Sea Ray Restoration. Not the same boat, but similar structure in the bow, and he left his top cap installed...

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...and-hull-repair/649568-86-sea-ray-restoration


Also how is your hull supported? If is just on the trailer I would suggest shoring it up, as once you remove the bones of the boat, the hull can/will become flimsy.

By the way,cool baot and I agree with the other guys, you are in this deep, why not make it better that factory...

Good luck Erichlg, and post lots of pix!!

 

[Erichlg]

Corjen1 - I haven't considered what will happen to the hull when I take everything out. I have it on the trailer so I can move it out of the wife's parking spot if I won't be able to work on it for a while. Do you think I can just temporarily support it it on the trailer or are you thinking of a cradle?

 

[Yacht Dr.]

I think you would be ok on the trailer. Just take a peek at the bunks to see if its deflecting any. I dont think it will..but if it does try bracing the two aft corners and mid-front keel.

I used to be on the production line of small boats. The hulls were normally on gurneys with bunks while being put together. There were a few that had custom cradles..but they had more beam and freeboard than your boat..

 

[Erichlg]

Thanks Yacht Dr. I'll take that approach.

 

[Erichlg]

Ok. I took everyone's advice. I continued with the removal. I have not found the mythical creature known as "good wood". Sorry to disappoint any of you that were hoping for a sighting. However, I did find the foam and wood up front had as much water as the rest of the boat. I did decide to leave the cap in place and work around the consoles. I am able to prop the consoles against the hull.


My next step is to finish the removal of the stringers and bulkheads.

I need your opinion on the consoles. They were sitting on the deck and secured to the flotation boxes and the carpet was under the console.


I'm not planning to put carpet back in but go with gelcoat and something for traction. What do you think about joining the floor to the console with fiberglass?

 

[Erichlg]

Originally I thought only the rear half of the deck and stringers were going to be replaced. I was going to cut the rotten stuff out and build from the "good wood". Now that I have decided to remove all of the wood and build fresh I am not sure how to build the stringers. Bayliner built the stringers like a box, plywood on the sides and top and they filled the void with foam and glassed these to the hull. I think I can replicate that design but is there a better, easier way? I'm not trying to take a short cut, I just don't want mimic Bayliner's design if there is a better method. Thoughts?

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Hmm..I dunno man. Basically they have 4 stringers in there with foam between them. I know its a little more effort but I would put the boxes back in. Or stagger 4 stringers. Either way I dont think glassing in just (2) 3/4" ply stringers is a good idea. It might be due to the hull thickness and/or design.