Anyone tried using Trex

jmlloar

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Anyone tried using Trex decking for stringers? Curious if resin will stick to it. If so the no rot thing sounds good.
 

jbcurt00

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Nope, no one has to the best of my knowledge.

I wouldn't use it for a stringer, or anything else on a boat.

I also posted in your Capri topic
 

jmlloar

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Reason for not using it?
Is it to weak?
I was thinking resin might not stick well, but I only need four 8ft pieces. Two 4in wide and two 10in wide. So if it is strong enough then I can resin in AND use stainless screws with out the worry for any water damage caused by a seeping joint that was missed or just didn't bond properly. Keep in mind this boat has been running for years with virtually no floor or stringers. Fiberglass in the floor of it is very thick compared to all others I have seen and/ or cut up. Strength must come from the tri-hull's large front to rear ribs.
 
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jmlloar

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Heavy, expensive, no strength, resin doesn't stick to it.

That would be the main killer for me. Still think I'm going to use it to replace worn out wood trim on deck "walkways" and side trim.
2 8ft boards will make all of it with plenty left over.
 

MTboatguy

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Trex won't work, screws won't hold in it correctly as the boat flexes with rolls and bumps, it will oblong the holes in it and become loose. I have also seen it collapse using it in its proper application. It is just not the right material to use in a flexible situation.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Its not structural. Thats the big Why its a no go for stringers. As far as resin not sticking..well it probably will to some degree if its prepped correctly. It does have wood components to it after all so why not. It wont add to its integrity though.

As far as your application it MAY work out for you. 'Starboard' does not like resin ( or anything really ) sticking to it..its not structural and is expensive. But you see more and more of that stuff on boats now a days.

What 'seaping joint' are you planning on using this for?
 

Scott Danforth

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your boat is a 1975, the original wood laste 40 years and most likely was not encapsulated properly back then. I would use wood again, do the job correcctly and even with should last another 40 years
 

ondarvr

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This subject comes up frequently, someone wants to use a product that won't rot when rebuilding a boat, and those product are available, at a price, and sometimes special ordering. There are cores that will add strength like plywood does and not rot, these tend to cost a great deal and depending on where you live are hard to get, but they do what they say they do. Then there are cores that won't rot, but don't add any strength, these don't cost quite as much, but you can have the same problem buying them. With these cores (foam is a good example) you need to increase the laminate thickness to carry the load the core can't, so more glass is used.

Wood will rot over time if it gets wet, but is low in cost, strong, easy to work with, and available in just about every small town in the country. One problem that happens in production boats is that since wood is so strong they use less glass, sometimes not even covering the wood, so it gets wet and rots. If it had been covered properly it wouldn't have gotten wet and rotted away, or at least not as quickly.

The easiest and most cost effective method is to use wood and then count on it rotting away, this will put it in the same catagory as a foam core, it's a nice shape, but offers no strength, so the laminate needs to be thicker. with the thicker laminate it makes no difference if the wood rots, plus, there is much less of a chance that it will rot because it will be protected by a thicker laminate. Now you have the best of both worlds, just don't put a bunch of unsealed screws holes into it.

I like hollow stringers, but it's more of a hassle to make them.
 
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Woodonglass

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This ^^^ is something all Newb's should read about stringers. If the MFG's laminated the stringers correctly a lot of the restorations would'nt be necessary. The methods an procedures descriibed here on the forum are good enuf that if done correctly the wood cores will last for many decades and even if they do get wet, the 1708 and resin will prolly be strong enuf to carry the load with out the core's!!!!:eek:
 

Yacht Dr.

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From all the rotten stringers Ive come across..the motor mount bolts..the zip tie loops screwed in..capture clamps and all the other things screwed in there that started the failing process. Those and the typical open limber holes.

In any case..Whatcha plan on using them for?
 

jmlloar

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Since trex is not structural I'm going to just use it to replace the worn out treads and side and dash trim
 

jmlloar

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It should work good replacement for wood backer that was vinal wrapped.
 

jbcurt00

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How do you plan to adhere the vinyl wraps to the Trex
 

jmlloar

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Wasn't planning on wrapping it. Just unfinished with a few passes with the router to give it a nice edge
 

jmlloar

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Originally it had plywood with foam backed vinal wrapped around with staples on back.
 

ondarvr

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They make products for exactly that purpose, much lighter and easier to work with than trex.
 
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