Starcraft Islander 221 Rivets and Floor

[sleddogs13]

Hi I am doing a restore for my Islander 221 almost done shoveling the foam out even in the cabin the transom is out.
Does anyone know rivet sizes for the hull and inside the boat and is it better to rerivit the hull if it leaks or put the sealant on the inside. I havinent tested the hull for leaks yet.
I was thinking about an aluminum floor no rot is this a good idea?
Also it has an OMC cobra outdrive. I am getting a new crate motor for her can I switch to a mercruiser outdrive?
Thanks! will post pics

 

[Bondo]

Hi I am doing a restore for my Islander 221 almost done shoveling the foam out even in the cabin the transom is out.
Does anyone know rivet sizes for the hull and inside the boat and is it better to rerivit the hull if it leaks or put the sealant on the inside. I havinent tested the hull for leaks yet.
I was thinking about an aluminum floor no rot is this a good idea?
Also it has an OMC cobra outdrive. I am getting a new crate motor for her can I switch to a mercruiser outdrive?
Thanks! will post pics

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... I used 3/16" blind closed end pop-rivets to fix My 221 Islander,....

You can swap to a Merc, but ya gotta swap All of it from pulleys to prop,....

Ya might find a Runnin' driveline in a rotten boat for the swap, insteada buyin' a long block,...

I yanked the 140 hp/ Mod.1 outa mine, 'n dropped in a 4.3LX/ Alpha 1,....
Complete, pulleys to prop,...

I put a plywood deck back in,... 1/2", epoxy, glass coated, 'n a sand surface,....
The 1/2" was flimzy, til I glassed it on the deck surface,.....
It's been there since '98 or '99,... no rot, still solid,...

I think aluminum would flex alot, unless ya went 1/4", 'n then it's gettin' heavy,....

 

[sleddogs13]

Thanks I am just finshing shoveleling all the waterlogged foam out and took the wood off the walls of the cabin and deck. I will get new foam to put back in.
The transom is out. Are the rivets a differnt size for inside the boat and outside and the hull. Did you check for leaks and rerevit the hull? Any luck with Gluvit or Coat-it
I hate to buy a new motor and put the old cobra outdrive on. The Apha I has a good reputation. Does their kit work good that replace sthe cobra I have seen it on ebay? Its around $1,900 for the Aplha on and conversion kit.It may be hard to find a good running mercruiser..

 

[dozerII]

I believe SEI has a kit to adapt a Mercruiser Alpha 1 to your Cobra this may be it. http://www.sterndrive.cc/product/Fits-Mercruiser-Gen-II-Cobra-Conversion-Kit.html

I would recommend solid aluminum rivets braizer head 3/16"

 

[sleddogs13]

Thanks the 3/16 is for the hull or the cabin? Shouls I use aluminum or stainelss rivets. Any experience with glovit stopping leaks?. Shoul I do the whole inside of hull with glovit?

 

[dozerII]

3/16 aluminum is what I use for most everything 5/32 if I need smaller. Gluvit is good for the seams but if you have loose or failing rivets in the hull they will have to be replaced with solid ones. You can use blind rivets and closed end blind rivets for non structural applications.

 

[sleddogs13]

I am about to build a new transom. should I use resin or resin and the figerglass mat. I am also wondering if I should use just the resin or the mat to on the floor.
Thanls

 

[Woodonglass]

If you're using Polyester resin you must use mat with it. It's not designed to be used by itself. It will harden and crack open without the fiberglass mat. If you're using Epoxy resin then you don't use mat, you use fabric and you don't have to use anything if you don't want too. It will work just fine by itself. On aluminum boats Epoxy is usually the resin of choice but some don't use resin at all. Some just seal the wood really well with wood sealer and then paint it or use spar varnish or other methods. What's your final surface gunna be?? How do you plan on finishing the Transom?

 

[sleddogs13]

I am trying to get the gas tank out it looks like the rivets are uunder the gas tank and I cannot get to them...Any body have ideas The gas tank is pretty tightly mounted Thanks

 

[sleddogs13]

Islander 21 foot redo

I am trying to get the gas tank out it looks like the rivets are uunder the gas tank and I cannot get to them...Any body have ideas The gas tank is pretty tightly mounted Did anyone replace there floor with aluminum? Thanks

 

[bob johnson]

who knows if your islander was ever 'rebuilt" in the past.... so where are your tanks? the islander I stripped a few years back had dual tanks under each seat of the islander. they were STEEL, not aluminum...I think they came right out!!

 

[sleddogs13]

Its in the original position in the middle of the boat surronded by aluminum stringers with rivets under the tank

 

[Watermann]

Some pics of what you're seeing would be most helpful in giving you good advice.

Is there foam around the tank? If so you have to dig it out so the tank will come loose. I can't see how anyone could set rivets underneath a fuel tank and have never seen that before so I would have to say it's not riveted on the underside.

 

[jbcurt00]

Sled, try to avoid asking the same question in multiple topics in multiple forums...

I merged your topics, if you want the new combined topic in the Restoration forum, and would rather it over in the SC forum, the combined topic can be moved for you.

 

[jbcurt00]

Did anyone replace there floor with aluminum? Thanks

Not that I'm aware of, Bondo addressed this question earlier:

I think aluminum would flex alot, unless ya went 1/4", 'n then it's gettin' heavy,....

 

[sleddogs13]

How long are the rivets u use. Do you buy different lenghts?
Thanks

 

[Bondo]

Do you buy different lenghts?

Ayuh,..... Different lengths for different places,......

Ya need 'bout 1/4" Grab to pop-rivet the stringers/ stiffeners to the hull,....
Ya need 3/4" plain ole 3/16" rivets to pop-rivet the plywood deck back down,......

Starcrafts like Rivets,.... screws loosen,....

For thru-hull, I use closed-end all aluminum rivets,....
For dry places, or where it don't matter, I use plain ole all aluminum pop-rivets,....

 

[sleddogs13]

I will post pics soon I am building the Transom and installing the floor with marine Meranti plywood. I want to order the rivets I have a compressed air gun for the blind pop rivets. How long are the rivets supposed to be in most areas of the Islander. I am also trying to order the right solid rivets for the structural repairs including the top plate on top of the transom I have drilled out the old ones to remove the transom. I will have to buck these.

 

[Watermann]

Blind rivets for the decking should be large flange all AL. The length depends on deck material thickness and the diameter is going to be 3/16".

For instance 1/2" decking rivets -

- decking .500 + rib .090 + deck covering material? = grip range. I would go up to the.625 to .875
http://rivetsonline.com/aluminum-aluminum-mandrel-w-large-flange-head.html

Solid rivets for through the hull also depends on the material thickness, same diameter 3/16" . So for the bottom and rib/chine you would need (2 layers of AL material) you would need 3/16" dia, 3/8" length, Brazier head and 2117 alloy.
http://rivetsonline.com/solid-aluminum-rivets-5-32-to-3-16.html

I recommend seating the solids through the hull with 5200 to be sure they seal up water tight.

 

[sleddogs13]

Got the gas tank out. What lenght blind rivots is the most common for the reatiore also what solid rivots for the restiore would nwork for the structural part above the transom and the hull I will buck the ends.