WOW!!! Did I buy a gem or a dud????

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Hi all,

I am new to the site and new to boating - but I am very good with my hands. I can fix anything - I think.

I have a 1972 Deck Boat (Gatesville, TX). It has a generic trailer but it has a vintage 100HP Johnson 100esl72r engine - that needs a new prop.

Now... I tried starting the engine which did not work due to my lack of knowledge. I used the manual choke (with the lower half in a huge garbage can full of water). It tried to start but not quite. Instead, it ripped a hole in the garbage can - yes ---- it was in neutral. What I don't understand about this is that there is a switch that made the engine click - I looked up the part and it is a choke solenoid. I am not sure what that does exactly????????

Now on to the more major issue. The transom and the surrounding areas are not in very good shape. I will take it out for putting around and fishing but this fall I am going to need to completely rebuild the aft end.

Just looking for tips and suppliers for the fiberglass that I am going to have to replace. I want this to be a tank - more durable than when new.

Thanks a million

 

[gm280]

:welcome: aboard embedded, great having you join iboats...

Sound like you have some real work ahead of you. But you came to the best place on earth for quality help as well. Two things I suggest you do before getting too excited about boating. First, buy the engine's manufacturer's year, HP, and model specific shop manual. That will be the absolute best money you will spend. Second, if you can already see issues with the transom, DON'T use it and wait to fix it. The engine will apply so much more stress, that I think you will find your engine at the bottom of the lake or river. Trying to use a known defective transom is asking for some potentially serious problems that could also be life threatening. So again. DON'T use the boat until the transom is fixed...period! Make that your first top priority! Post some pictures so we can see what your dealing with and suggest possible starting areas. Others will chime in here and give their opinions. This is just mine...

 

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I am trying to get some pics up on here. Any idea what the choke solenoid does vs, the manual choke?

 

[redneckvulcanrider]

It engages the linkage to the choke by way of a electro magnet and closes the choke when starting. If it riped a hole in trash can it isn't in neutral and would say you have a problem in your shift linkage and or a froze up dog in lower end

 

[hotrod53]

I was in your shoes 4 years ago with my 16' Sylvan SeaMaster. A year and $2700 later plus my labor, it's at least as good as new. New transom, new floor, new carpet, new seats, new wiring, rebuilt carbs, new impeller, used lower unit, new pumps, new batteries, new trolling motor, and a new steering cable.

The transom was a pain, mine came out literally in pieces the size of a quarter. The floor was a real project too. In retrospect, it was worth every moment

Good luck with your project, post some pics.

 

[putback]

That sounds like a real interesting boat, like to see some pics. gm280 is serious as a heart attack. I've seen a transom fold up on an old glasser. Smart ass, hole shot right next to the ramp. Funny as hell considering the circumstances. If you're gonna build it rock solid you're gonna do the transom, heck of lot easier if you still have something to work with.

 

[hayko1971]

Welcome! Just to reiterate what others have said, anything can be made new or better given time and effort. Have a look at some of the rebuild threads around here and you'll find so much inspiration and knowledge that any boat repair/rebuild task is possible.

 

[coolbri70]

:welcome:not to beat a dead horse, but:deadhorse:if the transom is bad, the best thing you could do is pull that motor off asap before it does damage to the skin. you can build a stand for it to work on it off the boat, or you risk losing it all, it will sink very fast with a mount size hole in the transom and a 100 hp sinker pulling it down by the cables. it will be tons more fun to putt around with no worries after you fix it.

 

[eavega]

Hi all,

I it has a vintage 100HP Johnson 100esl72r engine - that needs a new prop.

Now... I tried starting the engine which did not work due to my lack of knowledge. I used the manual choke (with the lower half in a huge garbage can full of water). It tried to start but not quite. Instead, it ripped a hole in the garbage can - yes ---- it was in neutral. What I don't understand about this is that there is a switch that made the engine click - I looked up the part and it is a choke solenoid. I am not sure what that does exactly????????

So, you have a hydro-electric shift motor. You may have THOUGHT you were in neutral, but when those Hydro-electric shifts would fail, they default to forward gear. You tore the trash can apart because you are spinning the prop with power even though you are in neutral. The shifting mechanism is actually a couple of solenoids that force fluid though certain passages in the lower unit. This requires you to use very specific gear lube (I think its called "Type C") which is thinner than your regular gearcase lube. You also need to test your solenoids for proper function. Here is a quick informational paragraph and testing procedure for the Hydro-electric shift motors from Joe Reeves

Hydro Electric Shift
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

Good luck.

-E

 

[sutor623]

it will sink very fast with a mount size hole in the transom and a 100 hp sinker pulling it down by the cables.

Wow, this is a very scary thought!!

 

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Thanks all for the info. Unfortunately I did not even know that I got all these replies. I am going to follow your advice and rebuild the aft end entirely. I cannot risk putting my family in danger due to laziness. Pictures to follow so you can tell me what you think.

 

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http://s1034.photobucket.com/user/kz1968/library/1972%20boat%20rebuild

Check them out.

 

[coolbri70]

needs work before taking on the water for sure, some tlc will do it good:thumb: then you will have a great toy. any pics of the whole thing? i like to checking out old boats

 

[coolbri70]

you can copy and paste them