1986 16' Starcraft needs new decking

Status
Not open for further replies.

pappy3

Seaman
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
74
Well I have owned ths boat for 8 yrs or so and up till the last 5 yrs this boat has always slept in a boathouse or under a double sized carport!
Because of that kind of care the boat looked liked new till 5 yrs ago!
No cover EQUALS NO DECK!!!
I told my wife that even if I have to i will put a tarp over it from now on!
Could anyone give me advice on types of wood to use for the deck?
Thickness, treated or not treated! Thanks pappy3
 

pappy3

Seaman
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
74
No Title

This is the start and hopefully I will have some steps to restoration!
 

Attachments

  • photo221801.jpg
    photo221801.jpg
    23.4 KB · Views: 1
  • photo221802.jpg
    photo221802.jpg
    28.3 KB · Views: 1
  • photo221803.jpg
    photo221803.jpg
    20.6 KB · Views: 1
  • photo221804.jpg
    photo221804.jpg
    23.6 KB · Views: 1

putback

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Messages
88
Pressure treated agianst aluminum can cause corrosion issues. With boat and camper decks I've had good results with exterior fir [not pine] plywood. Check with a decent lumber yard, they can get some western fir with more than the average plys per inch. Thickness depends on your sub structure. On 16" centers 5/8 5 ply western fir has no flex for me at 200 lbs. Coated with boiled linseed oil, top painted with urithane anti skid, 6 yrs No rot, under a GOOD tarp.
 

Kyle W

Recruit
Joined
May 14, 2006
Messages
5
I would use Marine plywood. Its about $75 a sheet for 3/4" AB douglas fir. Most lumber yards will have it in stock or can order it for you. 5/8" is probably plenty, even a little overkill. Fiberglass the topside and bottom side.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,829
Typically, aluminum boats dont use any fiberglass on either side of the deck. Sealed, yes, glassed not usually.

And no, not every lumber yard can get marine ply. Depends on where you are.

I can order it online, $75-90/sheet and about half that added for shipping.

Good exterior plywood, well sealed and maintained, will last plenty long enough.

Skip the sealing and leaving it unmaintained, even the best ply will succomb to the elements.
 
Last edited:

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
I know that a LOT of the Menard's stores carry Marine Plywood. Some Lowe's and Home Depot stores do as well in certain states. A lot of our members just use a good ext. Grade plywood. Epoxy is the BEST resin to use to seal the wood. There are other alternatives. Here's one... If you use epoxy it must be covered with something to protect it from the Sun's UV rays. The edges of the Plywood ARE the most critical area to be sealed. As stated you NEVER want to use Pressure Treated plywood in aluminum boat! The chemicals used in it will cause major corrosion issues with the aluminum. And as with any boat any holes place in the wood should always be pre-drilled and then the holes and hardware coated with a good Marine Sealant such as 3M 4200 or 5200.
 

Kyle W

Recruit
Joined
May 14, 2006
Messages
5
I know that a LOT of the Menard's stores carry Marine Plywood. Some Lowe's and Home Depot stores do as well in certain states. A lot of our members just use a good ext. Grade plywood. Epoxy is the BEST resin to use to seal the wood. There are other alternatives. Here's one... If you use epoxy it must be covered with something to protect it from the Sun's UV rays. The edges of the Plywood ARE the most critical area to be sealed. As stated you NEVER want to use Pressure Treated plywood in aluminum boat! The chemicals used in it will cause major corrosion issues with the aluminum. And as with any boat any holes place in the wood should always be pre-drilled and then the holes and hardware coated with a good Marine Sealant such as 3M 4200 or 5200.

Good information posted here, if you don't glass it use this method. I know that aluminum boats don't typically have fiberglass on the decks but the life expectancy would be substantially increased if you glassed it. As mentioned any place screws or other holes go through the floor they have to be sealed. For through bolts over drill them, fill with resin then drill out for the bolt hole as well as use 5200 to seal it.
 
Last edited:

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,829
In anotber topic you mentioned having to pound the decking into place on a previous tin boat rebuild. Dont pressure fit the deck to the hull, it isnt untended to be that tight a fit and if the deck ever swells it'll only get tighter. Not a good thing, IMO.

Or was the previous rebuild you mentioned @Mstoney's project, the 1st rebuild on this boat?
 

pappy3

Seaman
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
74
First I want to say a Big thank you for All who responded ! I heard that the new treated wood didn't have the arsnic in it but I am here for advice, so Thank you !
I had not thought or considered the fit being too tight and the water swell, so thank you!
jigngrub you did an Awesome job !! a lot of good info!
Something that I am thinking about using for a top coat is Kool seal!
I have 5 gals of this in white and thought I could tint it with some brown to get a tan ,this would be a grip texture plus add aome sand to the surface while its still wet would add even more traction! We all know this is a elastomeric compound so it should flex with the movement of the deckand help add another layer to seal it!
I mainly fish for trophy catfish in the winter and the deck can get slick with the first fish! So I have to consider all my options!
I also have a question about the pour in foam, what is everyones take on it ? Good? Bad? my foam has water in it but seems to be drying out, does it eer dry all the way? thanks pappy
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
It's not the arsenic that kills the AL it's the copper.

I'm all for thinking outside the box on deck treatments but not so much bed liner. The stuff you mention is new to me, maybe post a link.

Most of use use the rigid foam board for flotation rather than pour in.
 

putback

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Messages
88
I've used Kool Seal often for vintage camper resto's on the roofs, works fine for that application. BUT it scrapes of with very little effort. Doubt it will hold up under foot on a deck.
 

pappy3

Seaman
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
74
About it scraping off i think it needs an activator type primmer that would cause the two to combine as one ! Maybe ,I hope! Lol. I will have it fiberglassed first then primered with an acrylic primer!
 

pappy3

Seaman
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
74
Update. I havent started putting the boat together yet I am relocating to Lake Sam Rayburn in southeast Texas! As soon as I get my honey settled in I will go to work on my boat and with pics !
 

pappy3

Seaman
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
74
I haven't started going back together with my deck because i am moving, but I also have read about something called tuff stuff for a coating of rubber!
I think I will use thid , what are everyones thoughts? Pappy
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
When I was in the POOL business we used a similar product on concrete. We found that if you did not do an Excellent job of prepping the concrete and using the primer, the product did NOT adhere well and even then in high traffic areas it did not hold up very well. Not sure how it would do on a boat!!!:noidea:
 

pappy3

Seaman
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
74
Thanks for your input, I believe greatly in prepping so I will make extra sure it is ready!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top