awlgip griptex repair over existing no skid. help

[otto813]

This is my first post and I'm new to boat repairs but have been painting automotive professionally for 13 years along with hydrographics in between . I'm working on a 2010 35-38ft Contender that's getting the inside redone . my question is ...how should I go about prepping the original non side to go back over top of it with the new. The original is flaking up on some of tape line edges.

 

[Woodonglass]

Welcome to iBoats!
I'd recommend a putty knife to ensure all the flaking stuff has been removed then a wire brush and wash down with TriSodiumPhosphate to remove any oily residue. Rinse with Clean Water and a final wash down with Acetone right before applying the new anti-skid. You should get good adhesion if you prep with those steps.

 

[zool]

This is my first post and I'm new to boat repairs but have been painting automotive professionally for 13 years along with hydrographics in between . I'm working on a 2010 35-38ft Contender that's getting the inside redone . my question is ...how should I go about prepping the original non side to go back over top of it with the new. The original is flaking up on some of tape line edges.

Its all in the tech sheet my friend

http://www.awlgrip.com/MPYACMDatasheets/4078+A+eng+A4.pdf

You can apply the dry griptex on your new topcoat with a gravity gun at low pressure to get an even broadcast if u like...

 

[otto813]

https://instagram.com/p/3Ki6pdBDNM/

Thanks for the welcome and for not busting my balls about the search button like most forums. I glanced at the tech sheet the other day . I'll go back to read all of it.

 

[otto813]

My real question is . what should I do about the few layers in the picture peeling. just feather edge it a bit to get rid of the edges ?

 

[zool]

My real question is . what should I do about the few layers in the picture peeling. just feather edge it a bit to get rid of the edges ?

Im not seeing any pics, but if youre just doing the non skid areas, then you would have to reset the tape edge....if the smooth area is peeled..I really need to see a pic to help tho...photobucket works good here for pic posting.

 

[otto813]

that works great thank you. At least I thought it worked great. I'm seeing the thumbnails of the images until I clicked post . then it seems like just the links show up on the page . Hopefully you can see the images

 

[zool]

Yea, I see them now, just feather it like you said, then reset the tape and apply the paint and grip. Be sure to clean out all the valleys like stated in the tech sheet. Looks like you will need the course griptex to mimic that....clean it real good with a wax/grease remover before and after you sand it fair.

 

[otto813]

Great thank you for the information. I'll keep you posted with pictures and let you kno how goes

 

[Woodonglass]

This might be of interest...

 

[otto813]

No doubt thx , I watched that one along with a few more of his videos before I posted . a lot of good info he goes over ..I'm feeling pretty good now about it since I've posted and it seems like so far the hardest part of the job is getting the caulking off everything and everywhere they use it.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Hiya Otto. Hope you dont mind me jumping in on this. A few things that caught my attention..

1. The ol' wire brush and a cloth..not gonna do a darn thing on this. That system is more for say..diamond patterns and such. You've got sand..
2. Unless your pics are bleeding the colors..It looks like you have 3..yes Three non-skids going on here. First is OEM..second looks like light blue paint..then you have a thick pile of gelcoat and playground sand. If im correct..and I know you dont want to hear this..but you should be sanding off at least the top layer. Would be best if you can get that bad boy back to the base gelcoat.
3. Yea..um..good luck sticking your hand in a can of grip tex then doing the dump and gun method. If your not going to spray this ( which you arnt ) then I suggest two different size particles ( 50-50 mix ). Say...extra coarse and medium. That will give you a better look IMHO. Mix it right into the paint man..roll it on there. However, If you decide to do a sprinkle deal..then just use a 16 penny nail and put some small holes in the lid ( like a large salt shaker )..or you can get uptown with a layer or two of screen material rubber banded on the top. Bam! No blow gunning..no fuss no muss.

You better make sure that all the surface is the same color too. If you have a burn through somewhere then brush some paint to cover that spot before rolling your panels out.

Good luck on the caulk..I hate that crap. If your going to be re-caulking then you dont really need to be careful where the caulk actually is. Just grab your wifes favorite pearing knife and scrape it off. You can scratch the gel where the caulks laying down ( probably would help actually ). Come to think of it..I guess you could use just a plane old paint scraper. But thats not going to get you any interesting dinner table talk...

 

[otto813]

I don't mind the chime in at all. I appreciate all replies. I was going to opt for the sprinkle method but mixing the particle in with the paint sounds faster and less messy so I think give that a go . I bought all the paint yesterday (they only had course griptex) so today I'm gonna try to get a feel for the product . idk if I mentioned but I'll be painting from the rub rails on to The inside . The white tape lines are actually faded ice blue so that has to be refinished also .

 

[otto813]

Here's what I've got so far...the edges feathered nice and ive got it pretty flat. Do you think the little bit of orange peel you can still see will be alright to paint txture over it? Also should I just blow in the tape edges to save paint or spray the whole panel ?

 

[zool]

If those are craters in pic 1, I would skim it with a fairing mix, fair it, then lay the GT mix over a flat surface....significant irregularities in the surface will show thru..

 

[otto813]

Ok. I know from experience paint doesn't hide much so,I'll go back over them with some putty. Do you think I should spray the whole panels or can I just cut in the edges to save on material ?

 

[zool]

You need 2-3 mils dry, so you should paint the whole panels at least twice, let it cure, then tape off the non skid area, then roll on the GT mix, if rolling is your method of choice. You should also use the 545 under it, to seal it all up for a uniform topcoat, especially if ur doing any blemish repairs.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Im assuming the pitting is just left over lows from the non skid. You could skim it or prime it. I would prime it because if you skim it..then you should prime over it anyways lol. They sell white 545. I would also at least spray your topcoat a bit into the NS area so you dont have any seams to your primer/filler. Just remember that you will have to re-prep where your going to put nonskid if you paint it first. After you tape..take a maroon scotch bright and scuff them edges good..oh and scuff the tape too. It helps to get a nice crisp edge when you pull it..

 

[zool]

I would prime it because if you skim it..then you should prime over it anyways lol. They sell white 545..

I highly doubt 545 is gonna fill those craters or pits or whatever, its a good sealer, but a poor surfacer. Maybe 8002 to build it, then seal with 545....that all equates to a lot of primer, its easier to just skim it, block it, seal it, and paint. IMO....no guessing on the outcome.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

You might be right about that Zool. You can build up pretty good if you dont thin 545 though. Another alternative is to use Awl Quick sanding sealer. You can topcoat right over that and still retain the Awl Grip warranty. That stuff is thick as gelcoat and can be reduced up to 50%. Sands like a dream too

Or just grab a can of slickems and do it that way. I was just trying to eliminate a step while keeping the filler down to a minimum ( zero actually lol )