1958 Delcraft project

Daniel97

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
25
Alright folks, after months of reading various forums about boat builds, I have finally found the project for me. I found a 14 foot flat boat for sale on craigslist for $200. I went and looked at it and after a few minutes of talking I got him to settle on $170 because of its rough shape. When he signed the bill of sale over to me it said 1958 Delcraft, last registered in 1992. That peaked my attention because that is triple my age (18 year old college student). I was just going to paint it and put some seats but why not take it a step further and fully customize it. I will get some more pictures up later so y'all can follow along. Probably won't be a quick build, but it will get done!
 

Attachments

  • WP_20150523_11_01_48_Pro.jpg
    WP_20150523_11_01_48_Pro.jpg
    32.9 KB · Views: 0
  • WP_20150523_11_01_38_Pro.jpg
    WP_20150523_11_01_38_Pro.jpg
    36.3 KB · Views: 0
  • WP_20150523_11_02_15_Pro.jpg
    WP_20150523_11_02_15_Pro.jpg
    46.7 KB · Views: 0

Daniel97

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
25
Got the bench seats pulled out. I just used a hammer and a flathead screw driver and pulled the seat over the rivet. I left the rivet in so I don't get any leaks. I float tested it and surprisingly it did not leak one drop. I will get some angle iron and build some more ribs because I think the seats were acting as some type of support. I'm going to use the angle iron as ribs for the boat and I will also run the supports for the front and back decks from those. Hopefully I will have the ribs in there within the next few days.
 

Attachments

  • WP_20150523_11_07_55_Pro.jpg
    WP_20150523_11_07_55_Pro.jpg
    41.8 KB · Views: 0

Corjen1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Aug 24, 2013
Messages
1,237
Welcome to dry dock young man!! Good luck on your project!!
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,829
Don't use ANY angle iron in a tin boat, and NO steel fasteners. Stainless steel or aluminum only

If the seat was riveted to the hull, and you pulled the tin out from under a rivet head, regardless if it doesn't leak now, it will unless you replace the rivets. Re-bucking is an option, but isn't as foul proof as replacement.

Was there foam inside the bench seats?

Definitely want to rebuild the structure provide by the bench seats

If you're adding new higher casting decks, it will make the boat more tippy, you'll be raising the center of gravity.
 

Daniel97

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
25
Just so I can be a bit more educated, why should I not use angle iron? What should I use instead? I am going to replace the rivets now that you say I should. Should I use stainless steel bolts with marine grade silicone or go back with rivets?

What makes you ask about the foam? (again to educate myself not to be a smart a**) There was foam inside of the bench seats. I planned on buying sealed foam board type stuff and installing it between the ribs. I would then lay the plywood floor over the foam. I was told the foam in the seats is only for if the boat is swamped, not to help it float. Correct?

I don't want to go higher with casting decks because I don't think the boat is big enough to stand in. I want to build a deck that was even with the very back seat and it will start at the beginning of the front part of the back seat and run all the way to the back of the boat. I want to hide the gas tank and have some extra storage in the back as well. In the front I want to build a deck type thing that goes to the front of where the second seat was for more storage.

Should I remove that thing all the way in the front of the boat or would that ruin to much structural integrity?
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,829
No iron: Galvanic corrosion caused by different metals touching and getting wet. Aluminum angle is likely available where ever you could buy angle iron.

Closed end blind or solid rivets OR SS bolts and nylock nuts work, depends on location, if you're prepared to buck solid rivets and whether you mind the bolt and nut sticking up off the hull @1/2"+/- ,rivets are essentially flush.

Use a sealant like 3M 5200 below the waterline for rivets or bolts, 3M 4200 above. Dip the rivet/bolt into 5200, push it home and crimp/buck it or install the nut. Messy affair, but helps prevent future leaks.

You wont be the only one EVER to use this boat, so regardless of how shallow the water where you boat, or how well you swim, others may not be so lucky. Its flotation foam to keep the hull from sinking, yes, not to allow it to float for normal use. There needs to be enough foam, placed correctly to allow the boat to float level and slightly above the water when fully swamped. Dont skip the flotation foam. You paid for the boat and are working to redo it, you also dont want it to be a complete loss if ever it gets swamped, however unlikely you think that might be. They're called accidents for a reason.

If you are putting a deck across where the top of the bench seats used to be, you are raising the center of gravity. Else I dont see how you'll hide the fuel and gain storage.

I wouldn't remove anything else that you havent already. And dont forget to put back some of the structure to replace the removed benches.

What do you plan to make the deck out of? Dont use pressure treated plywood or PT lumber in your rebuild either.

Seal the deck on both sides and all edges before installing it.

Spend some time reading thru some tin boat rehabs. Even a topic rebuild of a 26ft tin boat will have useful info that translates to work you have ahead. Structure, fasteners, foam, plywood, sealing and paint...
 
Last edited:

Daniel97

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
25
Thank you very much for the great info. I will look for aluminum angle so I can do things correctly. I am putting a floor with marine carpet of some type in the boat so the bolts will be covered. I have used sealants similar to those on other boats but I will do my best to look for those specific sealants. How would I go about figuring where to put the foam to make sure it is in the right spots? I have seen on various rebuilds where they just put the foam between the ribs and put plywood on top and called it a day. I have no idea what I am going to make the deck out of so any recommendations will be good. I will be sure to read that forum topic you have provided for me.
Thanks and tight lines!
 

Daniel97

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
25
I have found online at homedepot some aluminum angle that is 1 inch wide and 1/8 inch thick that I will go pick up tomorrow. I will be drilling the rivets out of the boat tomorrow and I will be building the replacement ribs, I found aluminum pop rivets that I will be using. They are the 3/16 inch pop rivets. I picked up the sealers from the hardware store today while I was there. I will have some pictures to post tomorrow of my progress. I was hoping to get some work done today but the rain just won't hold up. What would you recommend me build my floor and deck out of?
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
:welcome: to the wonderful world of boat restoration. A couple of quick things to point out. You should use closed end blind rivets for any repair that could potentially go or be below the waterline. Pop rivets have a hole through the middle which will obviously result in water intrusion. You can pick up the rivets from rivets online or possibly Fasten All. As to the flotation foam the smaller the boat the less storage area you have left due to manufacturers filling every nook and cranny with foam to keep the vessel afloat in the event of swamping. If you remove some like what was in the benches, you should try and replace it somewhere else in your rebuild.

Good, luck with your rebuild and post up some pics when you get a chance. Most people here use a photo sharing site like photobucket. Much easier to post pictures that way. Simply copy the url of your picture and then paste it directly in your post.
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
Almost forgot. For your deck you could build it out of a good exterior grade plywood. Then coat it with epoxy or spar varnish. You may have to build some type of stringer system to support the floor/deck.
 

Daniel97

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
25
For those of you that can not see the attached photos, I will update this for you.









The above 4 pictures are of the boat from the start of the project before I even started to do anything.



I got the bench seats pulled out. I learned that you don't just pull the seat over the top of the rivet because it will cause the boat to bend and flex and try and pull the rivet through the bottom of the boat.



the boat didn't even come with a transom board...
 

Daniel97

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
25
Today I went to the home depot and bought some much needed supplies. I am working from the back of the boat forward. I have made more progress than expected even though I got rained out after only a few minutes of working on it today. I bought nuts, bolts, and washers to put in my new ribs for support. The ribs will be made from aluminum angle that is 1 inch x 1/8 inch thick. I got some Loctite marine sealer stuff that works on aluminum to seal the bolts through the hull of the boat. I bought the plywood to make the transom and I got the spar varnish to seal the plywood.

Here is my makeshift rib in place. Its not bolted down or anything just showing my ideas. Tomorrow I will have a much better picture as most of the deck structure should be installed.


I also picked up the gas tank from academy along with some new boat seat swivels.
 

Luke000

Restoration Forum Splash of the Year 2016
Joined
Aug 19, 2013
Messages
346
Cool boat and it look like you are off to a good start! I just turned 21 also in school myself so I know a lot of the constraints you are working with! I am working on my 2nd resto right now and it is another 50's tin boat HERE
 

Daniel97

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
25
Cool boat and it look like you are off to a good start! I just turned 21 also in school myself so I know a lot of the constraints you are working with! I am working on my 2nd resto right now and it is another 50's tin boat HERE

What an awesome boat! I think I just might be a little jealous.
 

Daniel97

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
25
I wish I was as lucky as the folks with garages or car ports. I got as much work as I could until the wonderful rain came in. Last night I got the transom board cut out and put the spar varnish to waterproof it. This morning I installed the transom but didn't use the Loctite on the bolts because of the rain.



I then built the back rib support and ran some more aluminum angle down the side of the boat. I will build the same thing down the other side of the boat and then I will take the aluminum angle and build a support that runs against the transom for the deck hinge and latch.

 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Uhmmm, that Wafer Board is NOT the best wood to be using for a transom. If and when water ever gets to the interior layers, it will swell up like a Blow fish and deteriorate very quickly. You'll be replacing it next year unless you're VERY LUCKY!!! I'd seriously consider using a better quality plywood!!!:eek::faint2:
 

Daniel97

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
25
I understand your concern but I feel very confident that it won't get wet. I have already put 3 coats of the waterproof spar varnish and when I paint it I will use waterproof primer on it.

I finished building the rest of the deck frame today while I had the chance. It came out pretty nice but I have used up my weekly budget for the boat so I will wait until Monday to get the deck supplies.








 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
When you drilled the bolt holes for all the attachments did you pre-drill and coat the holes and the bolts with some kind of sealant? If not I assure you water Will find its way into those areas very quickly.;)
 

Daniel97

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
25
I cut the wood for the transom and did a test fit. I then drilled the bolt holes to make sure everything fit well into place. After that I took the wood out and coated it with the 3 coats of spar varnish and made sure to coat the edges and bolt holes very well. When I installed the bolts I coated them with the Loctite marine sealer. I will go with it the way it is and if I ever need to change the board its right there. Just take out 10 bolts and change it. I will have to change it anyway whether I am changing it now or if I have to change it down the line. I greatly appreciate your knowledge and help. By the way, what kind of wood should I have used? Marine grade plywood?
 

MTboatguy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 8, 2010
Messages
8,988
Not trying to be a detractor, but you are going to be replacing that OSB next summer, you will get maybe a full season out of it, then the water is going to find its way in. First boat I ever restored, I used OSB for decking and glassed the hell out of it, it took exactly 14 months and I had to cut it all out and start over. The problem with it, is there is no real structure to it and the sealers you paint on it, has a tendency to separate the chips that are glued together, then when you drill holes, you can't get the holes to seal correctly and the moisture, even if it does not get real wet will start to migrate into the layers and pop it apart.

If you are comfortable with it for now, I say run with it, but start saving some money to replace it with the correct type of wood in the future as well as the correct materials to seal the correct type of ply. In the long run, you will be happy you did.
 
Top