1977 SeaRay 20 foot Cuddy

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
Welcome Grump ! Quite the project there .. Make sure you have the hull supported well from underneath before ya start tearing to much structure out . It can and will flex out of shape . You don,t want that . Like the others have said proper PPE is a must . The fiberglass dust from grinding is some really nasty stuff for your lungs .. The little particulate masks just will not cut it . At the least a half faced respirator with the proper filters will do with some safety glasses .. More expensive but well worth the money are your full face respirators . I finally spent the money on one and it,s the best money I ever spent ... :painkiller:
Good luck and let us know how we can help . If we can't help we can at least cheer ya on ! :cheer2:


It is on its dual axel boat trailer still should I do something else to it?
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
I found out that I really need to remove the engine but ran into a couple snags. I need to get the fiberglass/wood that has rotted out around the engine and need to be able to clear out underneath the engine.

I cant find anything on here or youtube about seperating the inboard from the outboard?
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,435
Do you have any pics of the hull as it sits on the trailer ? If its on bunks thats prolly good enough .. i know on smaller boats it seems to be a bigger issue with flexing
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
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Do you have any pics of the hull as it sits on the trailer ? If its on bunks thats prolly good enough .. i know on smaller boats it seems to be a bigger issue with flexing
 

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Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
It seems to be supported well . The keel I assume is resting on rollers ? Hopefully some of the guys with the larger boats will chime in . There are several here that are doing excellent work with plenty of good info . Here is one http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ir/8949098-1992-stratos-2250-here-we-go-again also kcassells and zools threads are a good source ..
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Thanks again, I'll be trying to take off the com out drive if it isn't raining tomorrow. I called a shop because I have no way to pull that engine out and they said 350 to 400 to pull it.
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
I found out that I really need to remove the engine but ran into a couple snags. I need to get the fiberglass/wood that has rotted out around the engine and need to be able to clear out underneath the engine.

I cant find anything on here or youtube about seperating the inboard from the outboard?
Found something sorry , just seems like so much sometimes.
 

WOEISMEIGOTTA470

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Messages
375
Hey Grumpie, your boat is almost identical to mine, type & length, general design layout and such. Have a look through my project threads if you like. Looks like you got quite the project on your hands, believe me I know all too well lol! Good luck and :welcome:
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
Hey Grumpie, your boat is almost identical to mine, type & length, general design layout and such. Have a look through my project threads if you like. Looks like you got quite the project on your hands, believe me I know all too well lol! Good luck and :welcome:


Thanks, I need all the help I can get.....I have a friend now who will help me get the engine out, but it is suppose to rain for the next 4 days too....hope you dont mind if I ask you questions. Mine may see dumb but I really try to look first.
 

mrdjflores

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 1, 2009
Messages
1,169
Very similar to my ray also. but looking back at your engine pic...is that OMC blue paint I see?
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
Big Question, when I buy runners, stringers, the ones that lay almost center of the boat in between the gas tank from forward to aft. Do I need to get 2 x 12's or are those too heavy? If not whats best to use? I'm really not sure how high I should make them either? Thanks all !
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,598
HI Grumps!
Looking good. Use ABX or CBX exterior grade plywoods. Probably 3/4" will do just fine. You cut cut your stringers and bulkheads to floor height if you gauge properly. You would have to allow for your floor thickness plus glassing. Also you can overcut the height and come back to it later to cut to correct height.
Check out WOGS titles under his signature. Lots of good info there.
KC
 
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kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,598
Earyago; 1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED...Kinda!!
Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!
eek.gif


All great topics but you'll want to start with fab..deck...


 

produceguy

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Messages
1,243
I'm really not a Grumpie person and yes I know it is spelled wrong, its a name my girls gave to me when young because I'm usually not unhappy and that's how they spelled it.

You said Drill test the transom? Like straight through the hull or down into through the top? (this scares me)

Lol, I just meant after that trip getting your boat home was probably frustrating. Drilling the transom isn't that bad. As stated your transom is 2 inches thick. Drill from the inside and only go an inch or less into the transom so you don't drill through the outer skin.
The out drive is just bolted on,6 bolts or so. I would drain the gear oil first or it could get everywhere. Disconnect the trim arms and she should pull right off. When you start pulling the motor and gimbal housing. Take lots of pics,so you know how to put it back together. I took sandwich baggies and put the bolts in them and wrote on them what the bolts and nuts,screws went to. Helped a lot.
You might check into renting a cherry picker to pull the motor,I lucked out,my neighbor had one.
 

mrdjflores

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 1, 2009
Messages
1,169
Yes it is a OMC blue paint engine, is that good or bad lol?

OMC parts are hard to come by. a lot of people will repower over to mercruiser. and mercruiser did use ford 302's for quite awhile, so most of the engine will be able to be reused if you want to go that route
 

52FordF2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
372
On mine it has a 302 (188hp) with an Mercruiser 888 outdrive. I think that you will need to close up the outdrive hole and recut the transom keyhole to the Mercruiser keyhole. The pattern is floating around iboats somewhere??:confused:. If you go that route take lots of pre-measurements of the OMC keyhole. It should help in the alignment for the Mercruiser keyhole ( Center line, Engine Mount Height). You may be able to upgrade to an Alpha outdrive and same engine with the right parts. It's the Y-pipe that I don't know if its usable with the Alpha??:confused:. If I had one I probably convert over, but that my $.02.

Keep it going, following along.
 

mrdjflores

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 1, 2009
Messages
1,169
That is unless he has the OMC Stringer outdrive...just one big ol hole through the transom with a rubber boot around it.
could probably find a donor boat to get all the mercruiser pieces
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
OMC parts are hard to come by. a lot of people will repower over to mercruiser. and mercruiser did use ford 302's for quite awhile, so most of the engine will be able to be reused if you want to go that route

The engine works but has a point system on it, is it hard to switch it over to a mericruiser?
 
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