Working with aluminum...

[Stackmoney86]

Due to my jon boats size I've decided to venture into aluminum to use to add compartments onto my boat. None of the new aluminum is going to be weight bearing so I am able to pick up 36x36 sheets at local Home Depot for $20 bucks.

Never worked with aluminum before...it's always been steel welding or wood working. So looking for pointers and tips from those of you who have...with the cost of aluminum...want to keep mistakes at a minimum.

I do want smooth seams...rivets is okay as the boat is already covered in them. I do have a rivet gun already and since these do not need to be waterproof I can probably use regular rivets(going to research to see if there is a corrosion resistant rivet).

It's not going to be anything special. Just a base area for my all around white light. Electrical console for my few switches needed. And I plan on removing the front "seat" and close that in for a small storage area...and another flat area for lighting and a smaller battery possibly.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Use all aluminum or stainless steel rivets.

 

[X'N]

Find a metal supply place locally to you. You will save $$$. You want to look for 5052 its the best choice for boat work. generally there is no telling what alloy or temper you will get at the big box stores. .032 should work for most things you would due being you said it didn't need to be weight bearing. Also use aluminum rivets. Solid rivets are the best to use but most don't have the correct tooling to drive them properly. Pop rivets will work fine for what your trying to do. Using different fasteners with aluminum can cause dissimilar metal corrosion especially on a boat where moisture is always present. (you can also buy sealing blind rivets) http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivets/=wxquve

My guess is you do not have access to a sheet metal break & shear so the easiest way to make a box if you will is to make flat panels and then use angle aluminum for corners, rivet them in place. I've cut plenty of aluminum just like you would as if it was wood. Tables saws, circular saws & miter saws all work good, just be extremely careful and expect kickbacks. One trick you can use is sandwich your aluminum between some wood when you make your cuts.

Cleco's are the only thing to use in a larger project like this. You use them as a temporary rivet until all your holes are drilled, then take your box all apart, deburr the holes (you can use a bigger drill bit to deburr them by spinning the drill bit in your finger tips). Then use the cleco's again to put the box back together and then start riveting it. Also skip rivet just like you would skip weld a steel box together to keep it from warping. If you have a friend that works on aircraft or round track racing they most likely have some you can borrow or just buy your own. http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-New-1-8-...r-Pliers-/190499400147?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

FYI Cleco sizes are easily identified by the color of the body 3/32 = silver, 1/8 = copper, 5/32 = black, 3/16 = brass

If you decide you want to have it water tight you can use the sealed rivets but before you rivet the sheets together you can seal them with a bead of 3M 5200 but it makes an awful mess.

You tube some sheet metal aircraft construction to get more ideas.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... A Tip for workin' aluminum,.... It'll bend, Once,....

It work hardens extremely fast, 'n needs to be annealed alot to do much forming,...

 

[bigdirty]

second what X'N says, and to add a few more cents; If you make a gauge pod or flat switch panel from aluminum, you may want to consider getting it anodized or paint it.. The sun reflecting of a sheet or panel of aluminum will be fairly blinding.. :lol:

For small parts and pieces a small bench mount belt sander is handy for de-burring edges, and rounding corners. Also, depending on what stores you have around, you may be able to find a skill saw, table saw, and or chop saw blade that is meant for cutting metal. Usually a 'negative rake' carbide tipped blade. That said, I've cut up to 1/2" aluminum sheets on a table saw with a regular home depo (diablo) saw blade, but full face protection is a must, those chips flying at you are gona be HOT! The thin sheet you are talking about though, I would defiantly sandwich between wood if cutting on a table saw.

 

[Stackmoney86]

I have a trophy making business so I have access to 12"x24" sheets of aluminum of 0.025" thickness. I have a cutter but it is for the sheets. I can only do straight line cuts on it and nothing wider than 12".

Tools I already have...the cutter, table saw, circular saw, jigsaw, belt sander, drills, rivet gun.

I am still looking over the aluminum deciding if I should sell myself some and attempt this...heck of a lot cheaper. Single digits per sheet cost.

Thank you everyone for the input. I only use aluminum for my trophy business...so its straight cut...then put on trophy or plaque and not bend etc. lol

 

[gm280]

Seems great advice already issued. I will only add that IF you use regular power equipment to cut the sheet aluminum, like chop saws, table saws and band saws, etc., make absolutely sure you have eye protection on as a bare minimum. Aluminum cutting throws particles everywhere and if even one little piece hits your eye, you're looking (but not for long) for trouble... A full face shield is even better. I use wood cutting power tools all the time to cut aluminum and it does cut really easy. But I am using carbine teeth blades too. JMHO!

 

[Stackmoney86]

gm280 no worries...I don't even cut grass without eye protection. From my civilian work at restoring military vehicles before shipping them back to theater. I pulled out one too many steel wires to not wear a full face shield anymore. Anything dealing with grinding or cutting metal now...face shield is on.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Is this the same sheet aluminum used for engraved plaques,..??

Is so, ya might need to sandwich it cuttin' it with wood blades in power saws,....

It'll tear, 'n shred otherwise I think,...

I use mostly .063", 'n up,... It can be cut with standard wood workin' power tools,....

 

[putback]

Old shade tree mech tips for alum sheet stock. Home made break. Length of 2 inch or larger channel steel, old long light duty leaf spring, Heavy duty C-clamp. Bore both Channel & spring in one end, bolt leaf to back of channel. Lay in sheet stock, close & clamp other end of leaf, the spring tension will hold it rock solid, start sheet bend down over C-channel by hand, finish bend w/ hard wood block and hammer. Radius bends. Black iron pipe bolted to side of C-channel at ends with washer between channel and pipe, continue as above or depending on application slip sheet into slot between channel and pipe [the washers] and bend over pipe by hand. Of course the channel needs to be anchored to something like your work bench on the edge.. Rivets, allways best with buck rivets, pops will loosen with time. If you do use pops or cherrys on alum be sure they are ALL aluminum rivets. Often the hull is alum and the mandrel is steel, galvanic corrosion.....You can cut .040 aluminum with a GOOD utility knife & a straight edge just like sheet rock, just be careful of a double cut if you use multiple passes, makes a dangerious edge. Best hand shear for cutting is the "slot shear". Not like the regular slide by's. One tool for right or left hand or cuts. Takes out an 1/8 cut, Fast, precise. Straight as an arrow or curves if you like. Clean cuts no spurs. Often on Ebay < 20 bucks. Aircraft Spruce is a great source for anything aluminum, worth checking their site if only to decide what you do want.
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[Watermann]

I've cut a bunch of AL with a non-ferrous metal saw blade that you can pick up at Home Depot and use in your table saw. One more thing about metal cutting with a metal blade, it's extremely LOUD! When doing a bunch of cuts, I doubled up using ear plugs and muffs too.

 

[putback]

I've cut a bunch of AL with a non-ferrous metal saw blade that you can pick up at Home Depot and use in your table saw. One more thing about metal cutting with a metal blade, it's extremely LOUD! When doing a bunch of cuts, I doubled up using ear plugs and muffs too.

Absolutely, probably the best advice you will get. There's no regaining your hearing, PERIOD.............

 

[Woodonglass]

Huh????:sorry: