1979 VIP tri hull

[Storm172_SBCT]

So here it is

 

[Storm172_SBCT]

Here is the 1958 Evinrude Four Fifty 50hp Starflite Outboard it came with.

 

[Storm172_SBCT]

My only questions right now are what are the best power tools for this full restore job and if I take the cap off will it warp?

 

[sphelps]

It can warp if you don't support the hull from the under side ...
Welcome aboard !

 

[Storm172_SBCT]

Saturday teardown watched our high school baseball in team in the morning. Hit it hard in the afternoon was going strong till I got to the bottom. I knew it was going to be bad but its a whole other feeling when you actually see it. awe Jamit!!!!

 

[Storm172_SBCT]

wow

 

[gm280]

Storm, while that looks dismal, it is the exact same pictures we see on here all the time. It is shocking because you see the worst of the worst presently. However, once you remove all that wet soaked rotted material and get down to the actual hull, things start to look up again. Take a look at most any boat project and you WILL see those same type pictures as well. It is the nature of the beast. But once all that is gone and you grind to good glass again, the picture takes on a totally different appeal. Hank in there and stay with it. You can do it! :thumb:

 

[Storm172_SBCT]

I know that I wont be able to completely fix this boat if I don't remove the Cap. The only thing I have for now is how do you properly store the Cap?. I dont want to go through all this trouble to put the Cap back on only to see it was warped and won't fit back on thats the only thing bothering me right now. Does anyone have anything on that? I know sphelps said support it from the bottom. I like to get a little more detail on how to do that. thanks gm280

 

[gm280]

Storm, take some good measurements on the top and make a little sketch and write those measurement down as you go. Then when you decapitate the hull and remove the cap, you can remove it out of the way and before doing anything else, take some more measurements of the hull without the cap and again sketch and record them. That way you will know if it gets out of shape. Some folks make 2 x 4 stretchers to go across the top to hold the hull in shape from bowing out. Others make side supports and attach them to the trailer it sits on. And still others (like I did) makes a total hull cradle to keep everything in shape as you work on it. I know that sounds like a lot of work, but it really isn't. Most any extra support you make can be made out of scrapes and such. It certainly doesn't take new wood for that. All you're trying to do is keep the hull in a basic shape as you do the work. As for where to keep the cap while working on the hull. Some make a sling and tie it up to the rafters in their shops or garages. Other set it out in their yard on some blocks or wood. Not really as bad as it sounds. Oh one other thing. Take tons of pictures now and as you work on your boat project. They will help later on and allow you to post your results on here for us to see and assist along... I know this looks and sound overwhelming, but if I can do it, anybody can...honestly! :thumb:

 

[Storm172_SBCT]

gm280 So from what your saying its the Hull that bows out not the Cap. And the hull is what needs the support?

 

[Corjen1]

gm280 So from what your saying its the Hull that bows out not the Cap. And the hull is what needs the support?

Exactly....the sides can bow out....I used the 2x4 stretcher method...

 

[Storm172_SBCT]

Corjen1 thanks for the info I appreciate it.

 

[Chad Flaugher]

It's addicting! Have fun!

 

[jbcurt00]

gm280 So from what your saying its the Hull that bows out not the Cap. And the hull is what needs the support?

The cap may be damaged handling/storing it off the lower half hull so it does need some attention to detail when you lift/move and store it. But no the cap isn't likely to have nearly the wood damage from rot that the hull does, plus you won't be gutting the cap, unless you plan to make major changes to it.


You will essentially be taking all the support structure out of the hull, and crawling around inside the hull while you're doing it. The stringers and deck help keep it in shape and you'll be removing all that.

 

[Storm172_SBCT]

Thanks jbcurt00 The Boat is 15' long how many 2x4 do you guys think I can get away with. I dont want to stretch so many that it makes it hard to fiberglass the new runners in. What are you guys thinking?

 

[gm280]

Yes Storm, as others have stated, it is the hull that will bow out. But with the stretchers or outside supports, it really isn't a show stopper like you may thing. I suggest you research other boat refurbishing projects on here and see how they managed that issue. Actually not a hard things to do. It doesn't take a large number of supports as you will see. The only reason you need to support the hull is so when you start to reinstall the cap again, it will fit. If the hull bows out, and you do polyester work with stringers and new floor and such and it stays bowed out, the cap will not go back on... But it isn't a real problem if you just use some common sense when making the supports. We are not talking about micrometer precision, but common sense measurements. Post your progress, we will help...

 

[Storm172_SBCT]

Update bank fishing is still pretty good 24" Largmouth....haha!!!!

 

[Woodonglass]

Yah!!! You don't need no Stinkin Boat!!!!! Fishing from the Bank brings back a LOT of Good Memories!!! Thanks for Sharing!!! Are you gunna Mount that Monster???

 

[Storm172_SBCT]

I let her go.....haha

 

[gm280]

Update bank fishing is still pretty good 24" Largmouth....haha!!!!

Nice fish and even better that you released it again. I don't know about others, buy once a bass gets to that size, they don't taste as good to my wife and I. We actually like crappie and bream tons better. So if you have no plans on mounting it or eating it, releasing it was the best way to go. But don't get use to bank fishing...you have a boat project to work on... ound: