1986 Four Winns Freedom 160 Restore need advice!!

[Lost in Translation]

I ordered from USC and got 16 yards of cloth and the 5 Gallon Epoxy. I got a lot of grinding done today as well. Tomorrow I plan on getting the front done.

 

[Lost in Translation]

Nice project Mr Lost. Zool does excellent epoxy work, your lucky to have him onboard!

On the glass, I look at the average height of the stringers, use that plus the tabbing for a width. Then multiply that by the total linear footage of all the stringers and bulk heads to give me how many square feet I need I tack 20% on to that number.

So if I have one layer in the schedule with 4" tabbing, and the average stringer / bulkhead height is 4", then I figure the width is about 12" or a 1' Then if there is a total of 100' of stringers I would order 100' sf plus another 20sf for slop and waste. Based on that number, I figure out how many linear yards of cloth I need (depends on the width). I more or less do the transom, deck etc, the same way and breaking down each part and layer. There is probally a better way to estimate it, but that usually gets me close.

I order resin based on the type of glass, using the square footage, There are some ratios for poly that I use, but I don't know what they are for epoxy. I bet Zool can get you headed in the right direction,

Thanks for the info and welcome to my project

 

[Lost in Translation]

Awesome thread started. Wish I could come on down and help! Exterior Fir the next best thing to Marine Grade. The point is too use Fir. Cant waut to continue follwoing. Also, for the small areas that the grinder doesnt fit, I use a Dremel/Rotary tool. Worked great

Thanks NicoPags If you want to come over I will buy the beer for a hand haha.

 

[rickryder]

Looks good on cleaning up the hull,your moving right along.

 

[zool]

Looks like youre just about done grinding....also, don't forget to order some cabosil or something to thicken the resin, you will need that before the cloth, to glue in the stringers and transom, and for filleting.

 

[Lost in Translation]

Looks like youre just about done grinding....also, don't forget to order some cabosil or something to thicken the resin, you will need that before the cloth, to glue in the stringers and transom, and for filleting.

Zool I ordered 4 gallons of it because it was only 22.00 dollars and you told me about it in the beginning of the post.. As for the grinding have to get the front section dug out some more and then I will start cleaning up. I have all next week off of work so should be able to get all my wood cut as well.

 

[Koosie]

I am currently working on pretty much the same project. '86 Stingray SVC 220. This forum is awsome as I've learned so much reading about others projects. Thanks to all the knowledgeable people. I am undecided on what to use for stringer material. Mine were 3/4 some kind of wood not plywood. Any input on what kind of wood would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking cedar? Sorry if this is hyjacking Lost's thread.

 

[NicoPags]

Welcome to iBoats Koosie. always best to start your own thread however your question is already answered within this one. We could guess the type of wood allday. For now try to use a Marine Grade Fir Plywood. The glue that laminates the layers is water resitant. If thats hard to swing, an exterior grade plywood was recommended above. Also recommended by a pro was to keep the old stringer in tact as posssible, to use as a template.
Lost im excited to see how far you've come since the weekend. Cant wait

 

[Lost in Translation]

Hey everyone so I have gotten almost all the grinding done... probably another hour of clean up spots left. After I am done I was thinking of pulling the boat out of my garage and washing the inside and starting on my wood.

I will say when the grinding is done my wife might be a bit happier seeing as she wont even step in the garage right now lol

 

[NicoPags]

Wow excellent work lost. Has she given you the speak yet "I hope you know your cleaning all this crap up"

 

[archbuilder]

looks like you have been busy! Nice work!

 

[PatinIdaho]

Hmmm Dusty garage = no wife:ballchain:. I see a plan developing i just may be able to execute and get some time alone with my 19 foot mistress with out causing ANY undue suspicion

 

[Lost in Translation]

Hey Everyone,

So got everything I need to finish the boat up. My order came from USC and I got all my wood. Got the transom outlined and pieces cut. Ended up doing 2 full sheets of 3/4 in and a center of 1/2 inch. Its all glued together and tomorrow will be giving it a resin bath.

 

[Lost in Translation]

Hmmm Dusty garage = no wife:ballchain:. I see a plan developing i just may be able to execute and get some time alone with my 19 foot mistress with out causing ANY undue suspicion

Yes that time alone was nice but now its over :blue: but one step closer to the finish line

 

[Lost in Translation]

Looks good on cleaning up the hull,your moving right along.

Hey Rickryder,

SO I got my transom cut and glued together. I can seem to find a post I saw before on the final width of the transom I want to say I saw 1 3/4 - 2 1/4 was the range. Do you know what it is or what was your final width?

 

[Lost in Translation]

Alright I am at a stand still I have the Transom all set but I have a couple of questions.

1 - Should I resin coat the new transom before it goes in?

2 - Should I PB the new transom in and then work on my stringers?

3 - My over all width including the outer shell is a little under 2 1/2 inches is this too thick?

 

[zool]

Alright I am at a stand still I have the Transom all set but I have a couple of questions.

1 - Should I resin coat the new transom before it goes in?

2 - Should I PB the new transom in and then work on my stringers?

3 - My over all width including the outer shell is a little under 2 1/2 inches is this too thick?

1-Yeah, its a good idea to precoat your wood, 2 coats on the surface, and 3-4 on the edges. Its also easier to preglass the inner face, while flat on a bench, but not mandatory.

2-When you compress the transom to the outer skin, pb will ooz out the sides, so you will be doing that anyway, if you use enough pb. Can be done after if u like.

3- If you have a merc, 2 to 2-1/4 I believe is max, or optimal. And only a 1/8 difference in parallelism. This is important to get enough strength in the mounting bolts, meaning enough threads passing thru. Plus theres steering issues. What was it originally?. Volvo allows thicker cuz theres no inner shield on the older models.

 

[Lost in Translation]

Hey Zool thanks for the reply. The outdrive is an OMC engine is a 3.0L

The original was so rotten it was hard to tell but I believe it was 2 inch. I used 2 - 3/4 or .70 in sheets and then put a 1/2 or .451 in piece in the middle. so my total is 1.851 plus the boat shell. So I think I am at 2.35 without glass. I am just wondering if I should plane the 1/2 down about a 1/4 in or run with it.

 

[zool]

I believe you may be too thick, the omc's used an inner and outer shield, but I don't know the exact tolerances....you wont need both 3/4 sheets, you would be fine with 1 full 3/4, and a 3/4 for the center piece, that plus the inner and outer glass, would put you in the low 2's, about where you want to be. Or just take the 1/2 piece off and run with the 2 full 3/4's

Heres a manual btw, a must have if u don't already have one.

http://www.cdnbaylinerownersclub.com...e%20manual.pdf

 

[Lost in Translation]

Thanks Zool I do have that manual and the original OMC one as well. At this point I am not sure what to do its either start over and use what I made for fire wood haha or use a plainer and take it down because it is all glued together. :facepalm: