deck repair 88 concord skiboat /outboard

Ms.Mary

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Mar 29, 2015
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Hello, I've been reading posts and watching videos on deck replacement. I know this boat has some rot, I think I can handle some of the work but certainly not taking off the motor. Debating whether to pull up the carpet to see how bad it is or just wait til fall so we can use the boat this summer, and am open to input and opinion. I am in Denver area. Will try to post pictures. (it was my dad's boat).
Ok couldn't add pictures...
 

Ms.Mary

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Pictures
 

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jbcurt00

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I'd suggest you strongly consider not using the boat until you've determined how bad the soft deck really is. If you've been looking around iboats resto forum, you should know what possibly lies ahead: a great deal of work, removing the outboard motor is one of the smaller challenges.

You should be able to peel back the carpet from a few places (under the consoles or fold out seats perhaps) and try to get a look at the deck.

Post pix as you explore.

Including up under the splashwell, in front of and below the outboard motor. A shot of the transom (back end of the boat where the motor's hanging).

IMO, doing a rehab on your dad's boat, even if not a money maker sold for a profit, can still be worthwhile and rewarding regardless that it's not a rare or collectible boat. Done right, it could still be used by your future grandkids.

Do you know if the motor still runs? Or if it can reasonably be made to run?
fetch


Looks like it's on a decent trailer, so that's a good start.....

Welcome to iboat's dry dock. Look around, lots to see and learn before we really get started on your Concord

Ask lots of questions and post lots of pix
 
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Ms.Mary

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Yes it runs, just had a new rectifier and stator replaced and it started up nice. Only took it out once last year because had battery issues but think that's all fixed. Was covered up well through the winter but hadn't always been. Worried if I get started on the deck summer will be over before I can finish it, but worried about safety if the foam is wet.
 

Ibl0wstuffup

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I'd be more worried about the transom breaking and the boat sinking than the floor being rotten.
 

MTboatguy

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If you have soft spots in the floor, especially close to the transom, then you need to be concerned about the bottom of the transom at the least. it looks like it has a larger motor on it, which means more HP and such being applied to the transom. It would be prudent to peel the carpet back and find out exactly what is going on in the floor and other areas of the structure.
 

Woodonglass

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Do a transom Flex test. Raise the motor up and then bounce on the leg. If the transom flexes...even just a little bit, then I'd advise you to stop and do the repairs now unless you just want to Put Put around the lake.!!!:eek::D;)
 

Ms.Mary

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Thanks, This is how its looking... most ruined deck is where the live well was that had fallen apart. Can I use a jig saw to cut back the wood to check more deck?
Motor is pretty solid.....can't tell yet how that section is.
 

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jbcurt00

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A jigsaw blade might be long enough to cut thru the BOTTOM of the hull, so if you want to try and use it be very careful and make sure you KNOW what's beneath the deck wherever you're cutting.

A circular saw set to 5/8-3/4" depth will work better and reduce the risk of cutting thru stuff you don't want to cut into.
 

Ms.Mary

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Got some of the deck out by shortening my jigsaw blade for now. Deck wood wasn't bad away from the hatch, foam feels wet, and I believe I am looking at wet, rotting stringers in the front. Water was still in it after pulling out that tank. Might be calling around to have someone remove the rest of the deck and remove gas tank.
 

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Ms.Mary

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I found a YouTube video on a 1986 version of the boat. The tank part is a built in cooler and the longer hatch was a ski locker. (not a live well) But there is a drain from the cooler... where is it supposed to drain into?
 

jbcurt00

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I'm not 100%, but I'd bet the drain is supposed to either:
Be attached to a hose that allows the water to drain back to a transom thru hole, or at least near the bilge plug that drains any water that gets below decks out of the hull.

Or the drain is just lets the water down below decks into the bilge, its supposed to make its way back to the drain plug by whatever path it finds.

If I had to guess, it's the 2nd method, just into the bilge and drain however it can....
You can now start to see the problem when the hull has been foam filled.
 

Ms.Mary

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Happy Easter!
Hoping to get a lot done today but having a hard time getting the seat box out. It is fiber glassed all together and to the side and floor. I was hoping to re-use it but gave up on that, plus it had some rotted wood on the bottom. Helpful ideas on method? I chiseled it off the bottom and made some cuts but not getting far. I won't be removing the cap so I need to work around it.
Thanks,
Mary
 

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Ms.Mary

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Perseverance... and elbow grease... but open to suggestions to finish removing it and for the other one. I don't want to damage the hill which seems pretty thin after pulling off carpet.
 

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jbcurt00

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A sawZall or thin kerf cutting disc (probably metal) in a 4.5" grinder.

Cutting fiberglass generates a LOT of dust and etc that you DO NOT WANT to be inhaling. You should be wearing a respirator at a minimum. Gloved up w/ no exposed skin. A tyvek suit is popular

You do not want to be using a hammer and chisel or be prying against the hull, it is thin and you can make more work for yourself if you do damage the hull.

If you haven't checked the transom, it's too early to say you won't be pulling the cap. IMO, it's more work, but well worth it if you have to replace the transom, deck and stringers.....
 

Ms.Mary

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Thanks, using PPE, only chiseled where it was wood to deck, stayed away from hull part. I will look into sawzalls. Thank you.
 

Ms.Mary

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Few questions:
Do you recommend marine grade plywood for the seat bases as well? Mine have wooden bases, that double for storage.
What wood for the stringers?

Thanks... just doing some planning.
 

jbcurt00

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If you can find it locally, and it fits the budget, yes marine ply is best. I can't even special order it from any of the local lumber yard here in WV. I've seen it once at an HD 3/4" 4X8 sheets $95/ea, 1.5hrs from the house, but the next time I was there, none left and no plan to order/get any more.

Arauco (if you can find it) is a great choice, but hard to find in some places
MDO (Medium Density Overlay (not MDF, the carp wood chip ply used in cheap put it together yourself furniture))

Many use ACX (good grade of exterior ply) because they can get it off the shelf at most big box hardware/lumber places )HD or Lowes, etc)

last resort, BCX

ACX ply has a 'good' face on 1 side (that's the A in the ACX) and a lesser grade face (the C side) and is exterior rated (the X in the name).

No matter which you choose, they all have to be sealed w/ polyester resin and fiberglass mat/cloth and if neglected they will all eventually suffer similar problems as your current deck. Which is why many use ACX. $30-35/per 3/4" 4X8 sheet.

You can build the seat bases, but how much of the original seat will be reuseable?

Might consider new fold out lounge seats, which come w/ bases. You can find them online (iboats does carry them) and they often have plastic or composite bases for $140+/- for each foldout/lounger upto $4-500 per seat.

If the seats need to be rebuilt, but the vinyl can at least be used as a pattern, you could build the bases and sew the vinyl yourself to fit the existing. Lots of people iboats have w/ great results.

Here's WoodOnGlass's graphic for rebuilding the boat:
Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
 

Ms.Mary

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Thanks for helping me out!
the seats are pretty good, my dad had them re-upholstered at one point, just the wood bases need to be rebuilt. The current stringers look like 2x4s in size... won't the marine plywood be too thin for support like that? Or do they just look thicker because of the fiberglass? Front thats rotted had hardly any fiberglass on it.

There is a lumber yard here who can order in a day- 4x8 of half inch for $75. If its best to do that I will make my seats from it even though it's a little more. I did call the Concord boat company- tried to get original boat specs or brochure but he couldn't help. He did recommend AC exterior fir to be used for the deck. Thoughts on that? Stick with MGP?

Awesome brother-in-law came over and helped last night so got more of the deck out- back looks good and transom. Finally found the bilge pump which I will replace, not even sure it worked. Most damage is in the front and where the back seat was screwed into the deck. Will post pics later tonight.
Buying my grinder on the way home.

Does carpet add anything besides looks? Like noise dampening? I have taken a lot of it out. I would like to just do the white gelcoat inside on the sides of the boat, like FriscoBoater did, instead of replacing the old carpet.
Thanks all!
Mary
 

Ms.Mary

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Getting there... home depot guy told me they had no grinders wheels appropriate for fiberglass... think I didn't make it clear enough what I was doing.
 

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