Need an official materials list for painting a portion of my boat.

[Woodonglass]

Based on your sq. footage then I think your calculations are a bit off. I'd think you'd need about a gallon of each. That way you'll have about a quart left over for future touch ups!!

 

[vetting]

So when they do sq footage, does that take into account the fact that the volume of paint doubles when you add activator and reducer?

 

[Woodonglass]

So when they do sq footage, does that take into account the fact that the volume of paint doubles when you add activator and reducer?

Yup, sure Do!!!

http://www.bottompaintstore.com/blog/how-to/awlgrip-paint-topside-boat-paint/

 

[vetting]

After reading some more, Im starting to have second thoughts about Awlgrip for the top coat. Between fishing and river cruises (with multiple stops), I probably dock the boat at least 150 times a summer. With only a single screw motor, on windy days you sometimes just have to hope for the best when docking. I havent ever damaged the gelcoat but I do get those rubber rub mark streaks on occasion. Not sure how paint would hold up to that and Awlgrip isnt repairable. Ahhh why do these choices have to be so complicated....

 

[gm280]

vetting, you are not alone in your quest for the "perfect paint" for your boat/project. Seem that IS exactly what everybody wants as well. We all want a paint that goes on almost by its self, dry/cures to a high luster finish that looks amazing and can stand up to rubbing on rocks and sand without any evidence of doing so. And seems everybody does pick their favorite and uses it. And for them most part everybody seems happen in their choice. I said that to say this. There are all types of "perfect paint" out there and it is really hard to say one is the better over any other. So pick one and stay with that manufacturer's instructions and I'm sure you will enjoy a great finish. In other words, there are a lot of perfect paints out there to do the job... JMHO!

 

[jc55]

I agree with GM. On a side note, if you put a pop up cleat diagonally from your cabin hatch, just behind your navigation lights, that might help. I run 4 fenders(not at cruise, lol) and it helps with bad approaches towards the bow.

 

[zool]

After reading some more, Im starting to have second thoughts about Awlgrip for the top coat. Between fishing and river cruises (with multiple stops), I probably dock the boat at least 150 times a summer. With only a single screw motor, on windy days you sometimes just have to hope for the best when docking. I havent ever damaged the gelcoat but I do get those rubber rub mark streaks on occasion. Not sure how paint would hold up to that and Awlgrip isnt repairable. Ahhh why do these choices have to be so complicated....

Well, if your concerns are repairability, then you probably should avoid the LPU's like Awlgrip, Sterling, ect...they are durable, yes, but they aren't meant to be buffed, waxed, or repaired....not that you cant repair or buff them, but once their proprietary outer coating is breached, constant buffing/waxing is a must to maintain the luster.

And since you don't plan to spray, you're somewhat limited in choice, auto paints like PPG, Dupont, ect are spray only.

The acrylic based boat paints like Awlcraft, are repairable, but slightly less durable.

You said you were planning to replace the rubrail, so if you ditched the aluminum/vinyl combo, and went with the sturdier type like on a Whaler, you can pretty much play bumper cars with the pilings, and keep the gel/paint from rash.. Just a thought.


http://infozing.com/bostonwhaler/installing-a-new-rub-rail-bumper-rail-on-a-boston-whaler-13-15-17/