1986 Lund Baron

Fiskpond

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Feb 15, 2015
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IMHO ext.Grade 1/2" plywood that's been Sealed really well is more than adequate for your decking material. Will you be using the 2-part foam again or cutting and fitting the slab foam??


Thanks for the advice. I read somewhere in here that where someone put 2" sheet foam, cut to fit on the bottom of each cavity. Then used duct tape to make a seal between the stringers and the foam and then poured the 2 part polyester foam over the top through the floor. It sounds good in theory. I am not sure on my next move yet. If nothing else, cut a small section out of the foam to check if it is wet at the bottom or not.

Thanks again,
 

bonz_d

Vice Admiral
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Apr 22, 2008
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5,274
Yeah that's not good when they are left like that. Could start at the stern in the center and remove a foot or so and see how wet its, then move out from center.
I think I'd try and find out how bad it is before deciding which way to replace it. As you can see Lund used multiple pours to fill between the stringers which is common.

I would suggest using either 1/2" or 5/8" ply. The Alumacraft I have I'm using 1/2" ACX which is what was the original demension but also in this Alumacraft the stringers are pretty close together.

Is there a Menards near you? That's where I've been buying my ply. They do carry 1/2" and 3/4" marine ply.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
You can make a "Foam Hole Saw" from a 2" piece of PVC pipe cut to about 2 ft length. Cut some "Teeth" in one end and a hole in the other end where you can stick a long handle screw driver and then screw it down into the foam till it bottoms out on the hull. Pull it out and peer down into the hole. If it's wet below then the foam.s gotta come out. there's now wayto dry it out.
foamsampler-1.jpg
 

Fiskpond

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Joined
Feb 15, 2015
Messages
16
That is a great tip Woodonglass. I will be giving that a go to see what i come up with.

I think you guys persuaded me to go with 1/2" plywood. I was a little leary of using thinner wood but with all of the support underneath it should be strong enough. I will be coating the wood with the epoxy resin that everyone on here says to do. I have not had a chance to get much further this last week with the cold and snow we have been having here. hopefully next week I will make some more progress.

Thanks again,
 

LonLB

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Nov 19, 2010
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264
I would only go with the 1/2" if you replace all of that foam. I know everyone says it isn't structural but it is. Boat companies won't admit it in sales literature but can you blame them. It makes the hull more solid the floors more rigid and deadens sound.
 

fishin98

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
521
Looks like a heck of a nice project boat, I'll be following your redo. When it comes time for carpeting...Look at the Marine Carpeting from LOWES, I just received mine, 6' x 20' cost me a little over $150, it's really nice, will be installing once it warms up a bit here in Central Fla, will post pictures on my redo thread shortly.
My 2cts...go with the 1/2 ply.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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I would only go with the 1/2" if you replace all of that foam. I know everyone says it isn't structural but it is. Boat companies won't admit it in sales literature but can you blame them. It makes the hull more solid the floors more rigid and deadens sound.

UHHM, this is a bit misleading!!! A foam filled hull DOES add to the structural integrity of the hull BUT that does NOT mean it is REQUIRED for the structural integrity of the hull. There ARE some hulls that DO require the foam for their structural integrity but not all. Most boats have stringers and bulkhead to carry the load. All boats under 20 ft are REQUIRED by the USCG to be filled with enuf foam to prevent them from capsizing. That's the only reason the MFG's put it in. Prior to the 70's they didn't use it and the boats were still structurally sound.;)
...
 

Fiskpond

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Joined
Feb 15, 2015
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I have checked my foam via core samples with WOG's technique. All of the foam is dry all the way to the bottom. I have decided not to cut out the old foam and replace it. So I have cut all of the new wood and set it into place to dry a bit before I epoxy it. I will post some pics when I have a little more time. I did end up going with 1/2" on the majority of the floor. I have 3/4" over the gas tank. Since that was what was there from the factory. Thanks for all of the advice.
 

64osby

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Jul 28, 2009
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...Look at the Marine Carpeting from LOWES, I just received mine, 6' x 20' cost me a little over $150, it's really nice, will be installing once it warms up a bit here in Central Fla, will post pictures on my redo thread shortly.
My 2cts...go with the 1/2 ply.

What! :facepalm::rolleyes:
 

Fiskpond

Cadet
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
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16
I have skipped the boring details of cutting wood and epoxying it for the last month. I finally have the floor in and the carpet glued down. Pics coming soon.
 
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