12ft Sears? Aluminum boat restoration

[Coersum]

I bought a 12ft (11' 5") boat a few days ago, including a Tanaka 300 (3hp air cooled outboard) with aors, seats and anchors for $200 delivered. I believe it is a Sears from what I was able to research online (by pictures).

Seller picture:


First thing I did was taking out of seats for easy cleaning and to check the condition of the foam underneath them:



As you can see, there is a ding/warp at the bow of the boat, so after a little bit of pulling (putting one side against my stomach and pulling the other side with my hands) I was able to get it looking better, not perfect but much better:



I plan on making a storage compartment up front, adding movable seats and plank/carpet on top of benchs and more (still deciding).

There was no plates but I did find a 6 digits number stamped on the inside of the transom: 211486

Looking at this thread on tinboat, I'm going to go by what his plate shows (415lbs/555lbs and 10hp).


Quick drawing of what the front might be like:

(Actually most likely only one opening for both battery and storage, it's not as big as it seems)

 

[64osby]

Nice utility boat.

Have you had a chance to test for leaks? Make sure it is leak free before adding any structure.

I would also try and not use any wood in the storage area. Use aluminum angle or U shapes.

Have fun with dry dock.

 

[Coersum]

Nice utility boat.

Have you had a chance to test for leaks? Make sure it is leak free before adding any structure.

I would also try and not use any wood in the storage area. Use aluminum angle or U shapes.

Have fun with dry dock.

It is 7 deg outside right now, I can barely clean things, there is ice still stuck to the hull here and there so leak testing is hard. I will start to plan and build storage till I can leak test it (will most likely be gluvit-ing all seams/rivets too). Everything added will be removable for easy access to the hull (guy I bought it from said no leak but who knows).

Also I would love to use Aluminum angle only but budget budget budget and it just does not fit it (I will be water-sealing all wood). Supports used to support the front storage to the hull will be aluminum.

PS: say I can plead with my wife for a budget extension and get aluminum angle... what size should I use? 1-1/2" 1/8" or 1/16" enough? (I already have the wood for everything so that was a cheaper way to go for me and keep within budget).

 

[64osby]

Scrap yards can be a great place to find some great deals on aluminum.

My local one sells it for .68 per pound. I have picked up tube, sheets and angle for different projects.

 

[Coersum]

Scrap yards can be a great place to find some great deals on aluminum.

My local one sells it for .68 per pound. I have picked up tube, sheets and angle for different projects.

So I thought about what you said and I have an old 15ft fiberglass left on my trailer waiting to go to the landfill, I thought I had stripped everything usable off of it when I realized it has about 30+ ft of aluminum railing. Using flat connectors and corner braces on the inside I could make a strong/light/cheap frame. It's 1/8" thick, it's a bit rounded but could still work. Spreading it over 2 feet hole I could stand on a single piece without it bowing.

 

[gm280]

My first boat was a 12' Feather Craft and I refurbished it into a very nice fishing boat with a new 9.8 Mercury OB. It was a very nice little rig to fish out of. Great to see your project and ideas as well. Go for it...

 

[Coersum]

I was trying to figure whenever or not I wanted a floor, at least from the 2nd bench to the bow of the boat (trying to limit the added weight). The ribs on the boat only go about a foot in front of the bench so I was trying to figure how to lay something without putting too much pressure on the keel and sheet of aluminum forming the bottom of the boat.

I tried laying some wood but most of the weight (after the last rib) will be on the keel. I was planing to fill the spaces under the floor with foam to add some flotation but then came an idea.. Could I just either sculpt foam to the form of the keel/bow and glue that to my floor... wouldn't it disperse the weight all over the hull? (and make it easy to install/remove the floor whenever I need to.

An easier way to do it (am no sculptor), would be to lay a thick plastic film at the bottom and use expanding foam, cut/mark the edges of the foam for what the floor level should be, take it out then cut/level it so the floor is glued nice and flat on the foam. After that, I can secure my floor board/foam to the ribs on each side.

I used a laser level to see where the floor contour would be:


Then laser level to see where the bench support level is at the bow:


One things I am worried about.. is the foam strong enough? it will be sandwiched between the hull and the floor board (with lines carved to let the water floor if splashes happen to drain water under.

I would like the floor/flotation foam to be one piece, "unscrew a few brackets from the ribs and remove the floor in one piece".. any idea/suggestions ?



PS: I chose a very low floor because I will be out with my daughter every now and then and also to keep the COG low (also the reason why I am placing the battery there).
Battery box with cap fits

Battery box without cap doesn't fit (hence why I most likely going to raise the storage top higher than the bench support)

 

[64osby]

I had a 12' Sears a few years back, as I recall the weight capacity was about 465lbs plus 10hp motor.

Unless this will be a one person boat most of the time I would avoid adding any extra weight. Two average adults, safety equipment, anchor, fishing gear, fuel, and maybe a cooler will put you at or above the capacity.

That is why I upgraded to a 14' utility, the capacity went up to about 785lbs plus motor.

 

[Coersum]

I had a 12' Sears a few years back, as I recall the weight capacity was about 465lbs plus 10hp motor.

Unless this will be a one person boat most of the time I would avoid adding any extra weight. Two average adults, safety equipment, anchor, fishing gear, fuel, and maybe a cooler will put you at or above the capacity.

That is why I upgraded to a 14' utility, the capacity went up to about 785lbs plus motor.

Most of the time that will be just me and sometimes my 5 years old. I am planning on adding no more than 50-100lbs to it in mod, which is why I am still deciding on flooring, a foam/floor sandwich would be fairly light and it would be only on the front half since it is more rounded.

 

[Coersum]

So after trying to figure how I wanted things, staying on the cheaper side AND light side.. I decided to do more with less:


Floor will me rubber or foam mats (still have to find a way to fix them but also have them easily removed).
Benches will be painted and topped with a carpeted board (to which the seats will be attached, I didn't want to carpet the benches directly).
Storage behind the transom bench might get a cover later on.

Initial setup:


Possible small front storage Frame (not real frame but to show where it attaches, to the front seat).


Small front storage covered and opening shown:


Carpeted wood cap added to bow cap:


None of this shows fish finder, anchors, rod holders, lights etc.. just a basic plan of what I want to do, nothing too complicated or heavy. Hoping to find thick foam pads for the bottom so that the floor is even (not flat, just no ribs in the way). The battery will be either in the front storage, on the front bench or against the front bench for weight balance.


Any opinion on the bow cap? (I have a transom mounted trolling motor but one day hoping to have a bow one maybe).

 

[Seahawks 75]

Did you ever modify that boat I have one and I'm curious on what you did