Helm design - fitment of steering wheel, plotter, shifter and visibility

KC8QVO

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I am making a cardboard mock up of my helm design this evening. I have everything set for the ergonomics of the controls. I based all the measurements off sitting in the seat.

My original idea was to have 2 panels 13" tall, set at a 25deg angle back. The lower would have the steering wheel centered and the upper would be pushed back 4" at the same angle for the plotter. My issue now is while sitting in the seat the top of the helm is several inches above eye level - not good for forward visibility. I need to have everything set for the sitting position as the purpose of this is so I can ride comfortably on some 6-10 hour rides. I did some research on helms with flush mount plotters and on big boats it looks like the helms are designed to be operated while standing, then the seat is set back for enough standing room and is much higher so that if the skipper had to sit they are at the right height. I am not concerned about standing, I need everything set for the sitting position.

The dimensions I set are allowing plenty of space around the plotter. I think that can be trimmed down quite a bit. I don't like the idea of the steering wheel blocking the screen, but if I set the plotter down further that will translate to a lot less height.

So my 3 questions are:
1. What should the minimum space be around the plotter?
2. How much steering wheel overlap over the screen would you consider "acceptable"?
3. How far back should the plotter be from the steering wheel? 6. 8, 10 inches? Non-touch screen model.

Another idea I have is to build the helm complete minus the top for the plotter, then only build the box for the plotter as big as I need it. The hard part, though, is I am wanting to put a flush mount compass on top and if I do the small box for the plotter the compass would end up being even closer. Not much room to work with...
 
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KC8QVO

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Here are a couple of pictures. I know, its a cheesy mock-up but this is a heck of a lot better than drawing it up and then trying to make the real thing.
 

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jbcurt00

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Can you see OVER the top of that console when seated? Esp as you throttle up?
 

KC8QVO

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That is the problem, and the goal is to fix it, but at the same time allow everything to work OK and be positioned so as not to impede the functionality of anything.

I am also trying to keep the compass as far away from the plotter as I can as I want to minimize magnetic interference. However, at this point, I don't think I have much choice on the spacing. I'll just have to eat whatever variation there is in the compass after compensation.
 

KC8QVO

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I did some measuring and it looks like I can trim 4" off the height of each front panel - if I can get by with 3/4" of material on the top and bottom of the plotter. That should net me another 8". I will cut back the cardboard tomorrow and see how it looks/feels.

If the plotter is set back the 4" I have in my idea I don't think the steering wheel is going to end up blocking much of it, if any. I'd just have to lean forward a bit if I needed to see the whole thing maybe.
 
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sphelps

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Are you sure that ya have the room for your dinner plate and maybe a nice center piece ? :D
 

KC8QVO

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Well I do have one of those folding camp propane stoves. Maybe I could add that to the top and build in some kind of oven that folds out from the side...

I know, like I said - it is a cheesy mock up. My main concern is the top part of it where all the controls are. The boat fitment isn't important, I can make do with that later. The controls and ergonomics are the primary concern here.

I'll get to chopping the cardboard here and see what happens.
 

KC8QVO

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This works much better.

There is about a 7" set back from where the steering wheel (the actual round part of the wheel, not the helm face the hub is mounted to - face set back is 4", measured horizontally) would be and screen. Sitting back the wheel would overlap about 2" of screen, but with as far back as it is leaning forward a bit shows the whole screen. I think I can live with that. The height is still higher than I'd like but that is workable.

The next concern is the viewing angle of the compass card. The little one there is not what is going on there. I'd like to put a flush mount Ritchie. I got to looking at the SB-500 (globemaster) - that is the smallest with an available 2deg card. Everything smaller is a 5deg. Though, an FN-203 (navigator) has a combidial = both direct read and flat card. So that may work best because the direct read would allow it to even be set at eye level.
 

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GT1000000

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I can only add that you are doing exactly what you need to do...
Using lots of cardboard and your imagination to create the console to your liking...
There is no easy way to come up with a preferred layout...
One suggestion I could give is to make the mounting faces of the console somewhat replaceable...
What I mean is to make the console base the way you want it, then fabricate a way to mount the faces of the console separately to the base...
Maybe using bolts and t-nuts, or something to that effect...
The idea being that if after some practical use, you find that you like a better way to arrange the instruments then you simply remove the original mounting panels and replace them with your new and improved version...
Whatever you decide, I would really like to see pictures of the process and the outcome.
All the best. GT1M:D
 

KC8QVO

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Thanks for the words GT1M. As to the bolt idea - that is a viable option. My first idea with the console face is to use a single piece of aluminum and put the Z bend in it to form the overall shape, then rivet the sides on. The main faces/top (all one piece) would have the rivet tabs on the sides as that would aid in keeping the controls and everything rigid (angles on the sides for reinforcement, not just the mechanical connection to the rest of the structure).

Though, maybe I could line the edges with some 1/8"x1" angle and do the same reinforcement, plus less bending, that the folded mounting flanges would do.

The helm here is only one part of a bigger project. The other two, well one and a half, are doing a remote control conversion of a tiller boat, and adding an enclosure. With the helm in the works that will give me another puzzle piece to work with.
 

KC8QVO

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I had somewhat put off this project. I am considering getting another boat, but that is out of the question for this season so I decided to tackle the helm. It is coming along. The cardboard mock-up was really good to do because it was a real world sized equivalent. Though, I think I may have inset the upper panel a bit far. When I get everything secured temporarily I will set it up like I did the cardboard earlier and see how it all works.

Radio is a Standard Horizon GX2200 and plotter is a Garmin GPSMap 820xs. I have a Chirp sounder for it also, TM150. The hem/steering is a Teleflex Xtreme.
 

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KC8QVO

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I did a bit more sheet metal work today. The flanges were bent with adjustable wrenches so they were not as "clean" as the main panel bends. I hammered them out with a bock of wood to level out the flanges. I added more screws also.

I still need a back panel and to figure out how I am going to contour the rear.

I also figured I need more structure for the helm. Just the sheet metal there is a bit weak. I think a piece of angle across the width of the console under the helm will do it.

The cable is pretty easy to work with. I am hoping the tilt tube on the motor is as easy to deal with. The more I can figure out here at home the less potential snags when I get to the lake this year.

I still need to work out a shifter/throttle and key switch.
 

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