confirmation of fiberglass/resin choices for old Glasspa Stringer and Deck repair

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ianmoore

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Here are a couple of pics from last summer before i started dissasembling
 

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Woodonglass

Woodonglass

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If your transom edges need tapered like his did in this pic to fill the kicked out cavity then I'd build that portion separately if thats' what your speaking about.
 
Mikeopsycho

Mikeopsycho

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Cool boat! Thanks for the pics. You got WOG helping you out, it'll turn out great!:)
 
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ianmoore

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We came to the same conclusion on the transom. I do like the idea of making a proper bilge area, which i guess showed up a few years later.
That brings up a couple of questions:
1. Thoughts on using foam on these older designs. Again, I've read both sides as i was researching.
2. When screwing the deck down, even filling the holes with silicone before screwing them in, can't this compromise the integrity of the stringers water resistance?
3. If the stringers and deck are watertight, and there is a separated bilge area, if water were to get under the deck, how does one get rid of it? I guess I am confused by the design. The Seafair originally had an open area under the stringers that would empty at the gabbard drain. If i build my bilge there i am stopping this path.
 
Woodonglass

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ianmoore said:
We came to the same conclusion on the transom. I do like the idea of making a proper bilge area, which i guess showed up a few years later.
That brings up a couple of questions:
1. Thoughts on using foam on these older designs. Again, I've read both sides as i was researching. Flotation foam is good insurance in many ways. For your personal safety and that of your passengers. For your boat and for your wallet. It costs a lot of money in fines and recovery costs to get a boat up off the bottom of a body of water. You are NOT required to put it in, but IMHO you should seriously consider doing so.
2. When screwing the deck down, even filling the holes with silicone before screwing them in, can't this compromise the integrity of the stringers water resistance? I wouldn't recommend using silicone but I would recommend predrilling and filling the holes and coating the screws with resin. You are correct in that any penetrations create points of entry for water but proper care and maintenance along with proper installation techniques should greatly minimize the possibilities.
3. If the stringers and deck are watertight, and there is a separated bilge area, if water were to get under the deck, how does one get rid of it? I guess I am confused by the design. The Seafair originally had an open area under the stringers that would empty at the gabbard drain. If i build my bilge there i am stopping this path.
You drill drain holes in the bilge and limber holes in your stringers to allow water to drain that's under the deck into the bilge when the boat is stored bow up.

Something similar to this drawing...

You plug the drains when not in use and then pull them when the boat is stored bow up. Any water under the deck will flow into the bilge and emptied thru the transom drain.
Click to expand...

My responses are in Blue above.
 
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ianmoore

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That's great. Thanks WOG! Do you use PVC through the holes? I really want to make sure to maximize life and minimize wood rot. Seems like another possible weak spot if not properly installed
 
Woodonglass

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Yeah, 1" PVC. Drill the holes 1 1/4" then rough the heck outa the PVC and Bed it in the hole with PB. It won't suffer from water penetration that way.
 
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ianmoore

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OK! Starting some reconstruction. Always nice to be on the phase where things are coming together. Today we put the second piece of the transom in and the whole thing is clamped and curing.
These pics are from the first piece yesterday.

I have a couple of new questions that i wanted to put out there for you kind folks:

1. I did not bed each piece of the transom individually in CSM. They are glued together. I was planning on spreading a layer of PB along the top and along the joints, as well as filleting the sides. Should i lay a layer of CSM over the transom before i tab and cover with 1708?

2. I am going to tab and 2 layer each stringer in 1708. I'm pretty clear on all of this. My confusion stems from the cross supports that sit in a notch in the stringers. Should I tab the whole stringer in, and then run my layers of 1708 to the notch, switching to csm so sit more easily in the notches? There was initially water damage at these points and i would like to avoid the same mistake.

-My assumption is that i would run the 1708 up to the notch, mold the CSM around the notch, cover the cross supports in CSM, and then bed the joint thoroughly in PB. Does this sound like a good plan?

Ian
 

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Woodonglass

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1.) 1708 on the transom should be fine.
2.) I'd precoat with a heavy coat of Resin and then lay down a layer of CSM on everything. This well greatly enhance waterproofing. then follow up with 1708 to the notch out. The rest sounds fine.
 
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ianmoore

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I had a very productive weekend! I was able to:
-clean and fill a bunch of old holes on the splash-well, as well as grind a bunch of sloppy repairs down
-added some glass(CSM and 1708) to the inside of the keel, towards the bow, where it needed reinforcement
-tabbed and glassed in the transom(installing a new garboard drain/PVC assembly)
-cut and installed the center stringer

After a bunch of discussion with my father in law, we decided to not create a bilge area in the back. The splash=well in this boat comes down almost to the deck, and a rear bilge would be inaccessible. I am looking into other options and places to place a bilge pump. He suggested a hatch, but i worry that would compromise the waterproofing of the deck. The boat has a pretty deep V-hull and I think the previous owners may have had a bilge right around the door the the cuddy cabin.
We are planning to build a bench seat in the back and 2 pedestal seats in the front. Maybe we could sneak something under the bench.

Anyway, i have most of this coming week to work(sporadically between real work) before I am out of town for 3 weeks.
I hope to have the stringers done and ready for the deck before i leave. I still need to do a decent amount of grinding, and then some re-glassing, so it may take a while.

I do have a couple of questions about foam. It looks like I am going for 18-20CF. of foam. I think i can do maybe 16 under the floor.

-Has anyone had any luck foaming before they glued/screwed their deck down? It seems that it would make sense to lay the floor in, with some weight on it, and cut out the holes before you had glassed it in. Any reason to not do this?
-I don't have a ton of room on the gunnels. I was thinking of getting a couple of the pink closed cell foam board, and gluing them under each side. I could probably buy about 6". I know its not a ton, but i can't find any place else to put it.

Here are some pics of some of the work from the last couple of days
 

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ianmoore

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It seems that if you glassed in the bottom of the deck and then had a bunch of 2" holes that you were gluing from the top, you would kind of be invalidating the reason for glassing it in the first place, wouldn't you?
 
Woodonglass

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Not at all. When You PB the plugs back in your deck will be as good as it was before you cut the holes With the foam to support them from below and the PB to reinforce them you'll never know the difference.;)
 
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ianmoore

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It may be a moot point as the foam needs serious warmth for the install, and up here in the PNW we won't have mid 80's until August. I am thinking of going with a few sheets of the Foamular stuff; as many as I can fit under the deck, and then some strips under the gunnels.
 
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ianmoore

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Nice thread! Read it yesterday. I will probably start looking into the foamular options when i get back in town.
For now, i have a few days left to work.
Today i ALMOST finished the grinding, and got the other 2 stringers set in. Thankfully we had some leftover cement from my son's Eagle Scout project. I knew it would come in handy!!
Put a heater in the boat and tented a couple of tarps over it. Hoping to be able to start glassing in the next couple of days.

These boats had a weak spot where the center stringer mounted right next to the garboard drain. I looked at that for 2 days before deciding to cut it back. I have a piece that i could use to create a bulkhead back there between the 2 side stringers. If I did this i would put a couple of limber drains in. On the other hand, i could just leave it floating, which would allow much better drainage. Any reason not to do this?
 

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Woodonglass

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I'd suggest a configuration something like this...

Creating a Bilge with deflectors to route any water that may accumulate under the deck to the side drains in the bilge. and then when the boat is stored bow up as it should be or when it's moored in the marina you can pull the side plugs and the water will drain into the bilge and can be pumped out or drained out thru the garboard drain.
 
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ianmoore

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I was planning on doing this but the splashwell on the 59 sedan goes almost to the deck, and having a bilge sump under it would make it almost inaccessible.
 
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Willyclay

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ianmoore said:
I was planning on doing this but the splashwell on the 59 sedan goes almost to the deck, and having a bilge sump under it would make it almost inaccessible.
Click to expand...

You could install an access plate/hatch of the required size in the splashwell directly above the bilge. Good luck with that great old Glasspar!
 
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