1971 Starcraft Falcon Rehab

Tnstratofam

Commander
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
I'm not sure it's been done here before, but why not check with a local sheet metal shop about fabricating a completely new transom using yours as a template?
 

64osby

Admiral
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
6,799
There have been some very large panels or skins applied with 3M-5200 and rivets.
 
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Tnstratofam

Commander
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Aug 18, 2013
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2,679
Keeping in mind that the transom skin isn't what provides the support I would imagine covering it with a new piece like 64 suggested would probably be a cheaper route than having a whole new piece made that would replace the transom skin you have now. It's just patching on a larger scale so it should be very doable.
 

rehab

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
Messages
30
LastDollar

Her is the mercrury repair guy's Info I was just there today he tested my lower end unit and gave my parts list.

Bay - Marine 858 635-8995.
 

LastDollar

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
117
Thanks I'll give him a call as soon as I can find the boat. There is a giant snow drift where the boat sits. :cold: Today or tomorrow the grand son and I are going to try and get the snow off the winter cover. Looks like a foot or more..

Just echoing tnstratofan and 64 thoughts the transom skin is to keep the water out the support comes from the transom borad and where it attaches to the rest of the hull. You have got a classic. ;)
 

nurseman

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
1,045
rehab, that is a cool old tinny! Transom looks like the bumper on my old ford...:D
Don't know much about boats that use those reevits, but I am interested in seeing how you deal with that. It seems that by the time you would patch all of the holes that shouldn't be there, you will have just about replaced the transom skin... Might be better to just do that right off. BUT, like I said, I don't know nuttin bout them reevit boats.
Good luck with her, I will follow along if you don't mind!
 

rehab

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
Messages
30
Nurseman, Thanks for supporting me. Any support will you are in rehab, I here is good. Patching all those holes would be what the previous owners would have done. They also were real Caulker's they love the stuff. I plan on add as much of a new transom as I need to (Aluminum). I hope to have metal this weekend and by the next to have it replaced. If the ADMERIAL gives me time. So until then i'm stripping paint and replacing seals, ect.. in lower unit of motor.
 

rehab

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
Messages
30
Splashwell.JPG I'm looking for a faster stripper.. HaHa. I've tried two different gel types for home depot and there ok but I Have 5 layers of paint and it takes 3-4 coats. Anyone got any good strippers that can be purchased in California?
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
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Oct 25, 2011
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24,863
Are you trying to get down to bare aluminum?

W/ the condition of the transom, I guess you need to so you can see any potential problems that might have been covered by PO added paint. Plus to repair any thru holes you'd need to go thru the factory original paint too. Is all the paint tough to remove or just the final original layer?

In Calif it will be tough to get your hands on the 'good' strippers [my admiral is 800mi and 6states away, that still made her spidey sense tingle :) ]

Can you use a less aggressive paint remover (typically less expensive)on the PO added layers and use the better stuff ($$$) on just the original paint?

Application temps, air and hull, are important, warm is best, and work in small areas, covered by plastic to improve penetration of the remover and slow its drying out.

If you don't want a bare hull, and there's no evidence of damage that needs repaired, I wouldn't remove any more of the original paint then you think absolutely necessary. All the PO added paint, yeah, outta come off. Sometimes roughing and scuffing the paint will help the initial remover application get thru to soften multiple layers, sometimes.............
 

rehab

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
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30
Yes, Bare Metal ( Aluminum).

I just had a great break threw tonight. I have been stripping the boat every night. Get off work apply stripper what 2-4 hours and remove. Never getting from top layer to bare metal. So tonight I begin removing stripper I went to light my cigar and O sht left my lighter in the house. Not a problem reach in role away and pull out map gas torch. Will having a beer and puffing on cigar waiting for stripper. HaHa.. I used the torch and heated up a small area with no stripper and then ran the scraper across area and paint peeled off like butter all the way to bare metal. I did this in a few areas thinking it was luck. The trick is to heat not burn or get the paint to hot. Wait just a bit and remove. In just 5 -10 minutes of testing. I was able to remove almost more paint than all week.
 

rehab

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
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So its been a wile. A good friend has pointed out that I have not posted anything in a wile. I have been just looking at my options and also just got back from Las Vegas NASCAR races. I have the top of the boat almost stripped of all paint. I purchased a sheet of aluminum to cover the holes in the transom and took the boat to a few places to see about getting it welded. WOW shocking 450 to 600 just to weld a clean slat to work.
 

rehab

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
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So with a crazy price to have this sheet of aluminum welded I have decided to do it my self. I first stared to try the aluminum brazing rod that melt at low temp. Not going to work. I like welding as a hobby but have only a flux core welder. I've built many trailers and welded things for friends. Never Aluminum. I have ordered in the past week everything I need to convert my flux core welder to a mig aluminum welder.
 

rehab

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
Messages
30
The coast to covert my welder with the help of ebay is about 140. Thanks to a free argon tank from work. I have to add a solenoid, regulator, and a Teflon liner to my welding gun. I had to buy a 4x8 sheet of aluminum to place across the transom. Just because of the with. So in the two week I hope to have everything for my welder and have practiced with the extra aluminum that I had to buy.
 

lckstckn2smknbrls

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 18, 2008
Messages
1,114
I see in the picture of the splash well 4 rows of rivets. What are the rivets for? Can you post a picture?
Thanks
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Hi rehab, permission to come aboard your tinny resto.

It looks like you have the right idea about covering the messy transom on your little tinny. Not much way around it with that much damage. I'm sitting out back here puffing a stogie and looking at the pics wishing I could see the ole gal first hand with you.

The only problem I can see with welding is the stern seams being so close to the weld. That much heat may burn out the sealing material between the 2 layers where all those rivets are located. Another thought is you would also have a void between the 2 layers where moisture could creep in from all those holes. Is there enough good material to cut around the edges to take out the old and butt weld the new into the old? I've seen a couple guy do that to repair their transom.
 

rehab

Seaman Apprentice
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Jan 30, 2015
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30
I just finished repairs to transom and ready to start building.



Complete 2.jpg
 

rehab

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
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30
I have welded new transom and installed rivets and transom board inner support.

I could use any advise from all regarding what wood to use for transom.
 

djpeters

Lieutenant Commander
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Jun 9, 2010
Messages
1,824
Marine grade plywood covered in epoxy would be best, but exterior grade plywood in epoxy or spar varnish works too. Glue two sheets together with epoxy or waterproof wood glue to get the correct thickness. Don't use pressure treated wood. The chemicals will leach out and turn your new transom skin back into Swiss cheese.
 
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