"Save The Manatee "

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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Not as fun looking as Woody's resplash vid today but we managed to get it flipped after a few adjustments ..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3qp3TSWr1k
Yeh I know I need to cut the grass again .. :facepalm:

Oh yea, I see some sanding for sure. But knowing you, that will be sanded quickly. You don't fool around with these projects. I like your video too. As for the grass cutting. If I don't cut once a week now, it will look like a jungle in the yard. We seem to get a little rain almost daily and with the intense heat, perfect conditions for vegetation growth. Time to get the DA sanders going now... :thumb:
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Thanks Woody ! I have noticed a few looks like blisters on the bottom and I do have a hook on both sides . Not sure if it's supposed to be like that or not .. Had a can of paint stripper so I used it on the rattle can paint job on the bow . Was able to get about 95% of it off . I have another video down loading I will post in a bit ..
 

sphelps

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Just wondering ... Are all gell coats created equal ? Many different brands out there ..
 

gm280

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Sam, I watched your video and I am not so sure that your hull has a problem at the transom area with the concave section in the hull. If I'm not mistaken, my hull is built that same way. A little shallow area right in from of the transom. So unless others can say, I think that is purposely built that way... :noidea:

Also, those bumps look interesting, but a long board sanding effort can get them under control. What type primer or whatever are you planning to use. I can see a polyester coat filling in blemishes, but I also know how hard and gummy polyester is to sand out. I was looking at some auto type paint PPG 2K epoxy type primer because it is high fill and easy to sand smooth. But I haven't nail that down yet myself... :thumb:
 

Teamster

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My glass Fisher has a similar "hook" built into it,...

My opinion is it is normal,...
 

Woodonglass

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I can't say for SURE, but I tend to agree, about the hull. I don't think I'd be worrying about it. As far as Gelcoat Quality goes, I believe it's only made by about 5 mfgs in the U.S. and then distributed by hundreds of retailers. I think the USC Gel is pretty good stuff as long as it's FRESH!!!! It's just like any other resin based product. It has a shelf life so you want to ensure it's as fresh as you can get.
 

sphelps

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Gm , using glass bubbles for the fairing ..
Is cabosil needed in the mix ?
Yeh the hook is exactly the same on both sided of the hull .. And I grinded down a few of the blisters . Strange it does not seems to be delaminating .. Mostly thick gell coat . But the rest of the gell coat is very thin . You can see the weave of the woven from the factory through it ..
Woody that was what I was thinking on the gell . Kinda like poly where only a few manufacturer's made it ..
 

Woodonglass

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I use just a "Smidge" of cabosil in my fairing but mostly GB's. Makes for much easier sanding. My formula is 250 ml of resin, 250 ml of GB's, 100 ml cabosil an then if it's a bit thick, thin with acetone. I catalyze @ 1% so I get plenty of working time especially in the summer time an I add a bit of wax too.. this has always worked great for me. This yields just over a cup of fairing material.
 

sphelps

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Seeing as I plan to gell coat The glass bubble/micro-spheres are still ok to use right .. Prolly a stupid question ...
This is the plan for the prep ..
Spidercracks that are severe -- Grind down to fresh glass , lay at least 2 layers of csm or 1 -1708 . Fill and fair as needed
Spider cracks that are small and isolated . V-groove , fill and fair ..
Blisters and screw holes --- grind with die grinder far enough to remove any delam .. Tapper around edges Fill with pb and maybe some shredded/torn csm .. Fair as needed .
Keel damage -- fill with tiger hair pb to form and finish with csm , sand and fair ..
Existing gell prep --- Sand with r/o using 60 grit paper . Sand until all glossy gell is gone ..
There are some really deep scratches that may need to be V- grooved and filled ..
I think the po just drug the boat up the ramp instead of using a trailer .. :confused:
Hopefully this is a good plan .. Let me know if I have something wrong ..

Btw , How much gell do you think this tub will soak up ? Should I get 5 gal ? There is a hazmat fee on shipping .
 
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gm280

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Seeing as I plan to gell coat The glass bubble/micro-spheres are still ok to use right .. Prolly a stupid question ...
This is the plan for the prep ..
Spidercracks that are severe -- Grind down to fresh glass , lay at least 2 layers of csm or 1 -1708 . Fill and fair as needed
Spider cracks that are small and isolated . V-groove , fill and fair ..
Blisters and screw holes --- grind with die grinder far enough to remove any delam .. Tapper around edges Fill with pb and maybe some shredded/torn csm .. Fair as needed .
Keel damage -- fill with tiger hair pb to form and finish with csm , sand and fair ..
Existing gell prep --- Sand with r/o using 60 grit paper . Sand until all glossy gell is gone ..
There are some really deep scratches that may need to be V- grooved and filled ..
I think the po just drug the boat up the ramp instead of using a trailer .. :confused:
Hopefully this is a good plan .. Let me know if I have something wrong ..

Btw , How much gell do you think this tub will soak up ? Should I get 5 gal ? There is a hazmat fee on shipping .

Sam I wish I could answer your questions, but never using Gel Coat myself. It would only be guesses. So I am watching your project for ideas myself... I am presently reading and learning about PPG auto product primers for my boat. So I see either a 2k high fill or an epoxy type primer for my hull. Keep posting I need to see what you're doing... :thumb:
 

gm280

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Sam, yes that hazmat fee can eat up a paycheck quickly. And seeing how Gel Coat is polyester based (per WOG's statement, I didn't actually know) They will add that fee in on top of shipping as well. But that is how it works out when building boats...
 

sphelps

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Just received the big tub of glass bubbles and 1/4 chopped strand 4 gal and 4 lb . Hope it's enough .. :D
Got all the spider cracks and blisters ground down and half of the hull gell sanded ..
Having a hard time finding some douglas fir to go around the rub rail channel ..
I guess yellow pine would not be suitable . idk
Maybe cut some m/g ply to glue in there ?
 

archbuilder

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Sep 12, 2009
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You know the thing I hate about yellow pine is how unstable it can be, seems like its strait......then a pretzel a week later. I would vote for some plywood, it would give you some stability and I think it would soak up some resin for waterproofing better. I'm sure you'll sort something out!
 

Decker83

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Apr 5, 2011
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Sam, I bought my gel coat at us composite and they sold them in gallon cans.. If memory serves me, you can buy up to 4 gallons and save the hazmat fee..
When I was sanding my hull I sanded all the bad places down to the glass. I found most of the gel was damaged and not the glass..
On the places that the glass was damaged I ground down the glass and laid up 2 layers of csm.. Didn't put the 1708 anywhere but the bow on the keel and on the transom where needed.. 1708 makes a thick patch.. Grind deep before you use it or you will be grinding it all off to make it smooth with the hull..
BTW when you spray the gel, Don't spray in direct sunlight..
Have a great weekend..
 

sphelps

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Arch , I kind of agree on the pine .. Hard parts gunna be getting inside the U- shaped edge to grind/prep for the wood ..
Decker , good idea on ordering the gell . After looking around they do seem to have the best price so far .. Been also thinking on trying the additive I think its called duratec or something . I think arch posted about it a while back .. Helps with the shine and cuts down on the sanding .
On the prep thats pretty much how I'm going about it .
Headed to work now gotta fly a semi tractor trailer full of metal framing and drywall through a window . Hopefully it won't take all day .. ;)
 

archbuilder

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Sam, I did post the Duratech idea. Haven't used it, but its supposed to make it work better with equipment like you are using. Its pretty pricey, but so is sandpaper and tennis elbow :eek: Anyhow might be worth some consideration. I did read somewhere that they recommend wax with it below the waterline. You might try Fiberglass site, that is where I buy my poly, they have very good resin, haven't used their gel. Good luck on the flying, that always makes me nervous when we do hi-rise work.
 
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