Transom repair question

emiller1020

Cadet
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
9
I acquired my first tinny, 18' Fish Master, after a quick glance I knew the transom needed replaced. I have done glass boats, so figure "no problem". Pulled the outboard off and all the rest. Behold all I needed was a vacuum and a putty knife and the old transom was out, it just fell apart. I can figure out how tall to make the new one. My question is how long to make it? Should it be right up to the sides or should there be a space between the sides and the new wood?
Thanks for the help
 

pckeen

Commander
Joined
Jun 20, 2012
Messages
2,067
There are a couple of ways of doing this. One is to measure at various locations and transfer those measurements onto the plywood you will use for the new transom. Second way is to get a large sheet of cardboard, and cut and trim it until it slots in perfectly. The transom should be very close to the sides.

When I prepared to rebuild the transom for my 16' Naden, I discovered that the transom that had been in there was not original, and it had been poorly sized, so I had to work how to size the new one largely from scratch. I measured several times, before transcribing those measurements onto the laminated plywood I was using, and cutting. i had to trim it once I cut it to get it to fit properly.

If you check out the Naden Big Fisherman thread in my signature, you'll see a couple of posts on the topic of sizing the transom, and the advice I got.

if you dug this thing out with a putty knife, check the transom carefully, as there may well be a number of bolts or screws that will need to be removed. If you have any solid pieces of transom left, you can try to use those to measure the transom thickness. Beware, however, as if the wood was swollen with water, the old transom may be thicker when you measure it, than it was originally.
 

emiller1020

Cadet
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
9
The transom is now clear, I can get to everything. It has a bracket the wood sits in along the bottom with 1 1/2" gap. I have laminated 2 pieces of 3/4" of plywood curing right now. I oversized the wood, than I'll cut it down to fit. It's a 1979 boat and not sure if this was the original transom or not, but planning bring it level with the outside alum. I will try to post pic's if I can get off work early enough.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
1/4" or less on each side is best so you can install without tearing up the sealed coating.

Snap and post a pic. I would say you need to do a bit more than just drop in a new wood transom. Normally the wet rotten wood causes galvanic corrosion on the AL skin. There will be white deposits, pitting and visible corrosion that needs to be removed prior to a new transom going in.

Look it over really well before continuing.
 

emiller1020

Cadet
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
9
Thank you for the advice. I didn't home early enough to get pic's. I took a wire wheel to the inside and filled it the pits with JB before I called it quits the other day. Sounds like 2 more days of nice weather than the cold and possible snow comes back and time to put the tarp back on it.
 

minuteman62-64

Lieutenant
Joined
Apr 12, 2011
Messages
1,350
The plywood transom on my aluminum skiff sits 2 1/2-3 inches off the bottom to clear the drain and also keep the plywood edge out of the bilge water. It extends to the hull sides, but not a tight fit. All the way to the top to provide the motor mounting surface.

Whatever you put in, make sure to seal it to minimize future problems.
 
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