70's Alaskan Hardtop overhaul

Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
52
Picked up a second boat to serve as a home for my spare motor that I was keeping in my shop to replace the 1991 200hp 2.5LMariner on my other boat. But that engine runs perfect and I don't see that changing. The replacement is a 1994 225hp 3.0L.

The boat is a early 70's, (can't see the HIN #) 21 Foot Reinell Alaskan Hardtop!

The guy pulled the OMC and had a shop glass in the hole. I think I gotta grind out the fiberglass on the plug as it looks terrible!

Floor looked solid but as I was removing the cabinets I found a few screws that were rusted! Sounded the floor more thoroughly and found 3 questionable spots.

Cut a couple inspection holes and it lead to me becoming Captain Destructo!!!

I was surprised by the lack of structure under the floor. One stringer on each side going back to the bilge. And a small piece of plywood spanning the seam in the deck. Basically the floor was supported by the one stringer and the outside of the hull and the foam supported the mid span!
 

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Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
52
I took the claw of my hammer and dug the foam out along side the stringers to have a look! Very surprising that the 33 year old stringers were in as good a shape as they are! I think I'm just gonna do a partial stringer replacement as it doesn't make sense to tear the cuddy apart, everything is getting nicer and nicer the more forward I went!

Foam at the back of the boat was wet but not completely waterlogged... Foam at the front was barely damp. Most of the foam will be removed today except for strips around the perimeter to set my plywood height!

Since I'm going to outboard I'm thinking of reworking the bilge layout and move the forward step down back 12". I'm also thinking of minimal foam in the rear deck and fiberglassing some under deck storage boxes!
 
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
52
Not yet, I'll core sample where I plan to splice the new stringer in! Transom is new, they left 8" or so on each side where the D rings bolt through and replaced everything else!
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,600
Nice looking boat. Sometimes they used the foam as structural to support, hull, sides, stringers and floor. Which may indicate why you have a "few" stringers.
If you are reducing the foam I would recommend modify the stringer system.
IMHO.
Lots of good guys here with good help. Looking forward to the project.
Welcome Aboard!
 
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
52
Foam is coming out real easy, taking a break to grab a bite to eat. Hard to say if I'll get it all out today, kids get off school at 2:30. Hopefully they leave me alone so I can work.
 
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
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No Title

Got lots of foam out, found that they fiberglassed pieces of wood on the flat to reinforce the bottom... Of course most of them are rotten!! Perfect opportunity to throw a little beef at the bottom of he boat!
 

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Joined
Aug 1, 2013
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Managed to squeeze in another hour after supper. Managed to get all the starboard side foam out and all but 3 ft of the port foam? So tomorrow I'll get that small port section out and the center part forward of the bilge! Coulda finished today but wasn't feeling 100% and had a headache so after i picked up the kids from school I took a nap!

Thinking I might have to open up the cuddy to get at those pieces that they fiberglassed in flat to the floor!! They extend past the cuddy bulkhead!
 

jc55

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Messages
665
Be careful KT. During heavy deconstruction on my Steiger, there was a two week period that I was getting dizzy spells, lethargic, and headaches from the black mold and tiny fibers in the air.
 

Mikeopsycho

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Messages
738
Hi KT, I'll be following along because I'm a fellow BCer, and I like your boat. I'm a fan of hardtops, used to have a nice 18 1/2" Double Eagle HT. Just so you know I have a couple gallons of pour foam left over from my project that I'd like to see someone put to use before it gets too old. I'm in the Shuswap area. PM me if you want the foam. Cheers!
 
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
52
Cause cutting damp foam with a hand saw doesnt create any dust.. And there's no real signs of any mold growth that causes me to be concerned...When I start grinding fiberglass, then I'll mask up!!

Headache was from too much coffee and not enough food........I'm superman anyways ...can't get hurt or sick!!!
 

strikemike

Seaman
Joined
May 10, 2014
Messages
56
This is my 2200 DayCruiser: 16080916809_57f7564873_b.jpg
 

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Joined
Aug 1, 2013
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52
Let me know if you guys think this is a good rough water hull? Wet ride or dry? I'm liking the look of it personally!

 
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
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52
After removing the foam and floor it was getting a little iffy walking around in he boat.
Noticed the bunks were only making 10% contact at the back and being it was supporting the boat between chines I was getting a lot of hull flex!

So I leveled the boat and adjusted the bunks for even contact! It was better but was still being supported in between chines.

So I built a wall on each side of the boat supporting it on he outer most chine? Each stud was a press fit so it took some of the weight off he hull at he bunks?

The bunks are still making contact and also the keel rollers........soooooooooooooooooooo much better. I can walk anywhere and not feel much hull flex..

 
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