Blue Fin Sportsman 1900

[Thasme]

So I finally started on my project. I got the consoles, front deck, and flooring removed. I had suspected a stringer was loose and I was correct, there were only a few rivets left holding it in place which also allowed the starboard gunnel to flex out. Trying to figure out how to get pics to upload and will get them on.

 

[dannys2004glastron175mx]

:welcome: This mite help. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/othe...tep-by-step-with-a-free-hosting-site?t=530391

 

[Thasme]

Ok I think I got it...







I have added a few support struts on the inside of the Stringers and will be adding some from gunnel to gunnel

 

[dannys2004glastron175mx]

Looks like your getting along great.

 

[Thasme]

I have been contemplating what flotation to use either the 2 part poor foam or the rigid foam sheets. I have also seen a few little tid bits about the noodles??? Any body have yay or nay feelings on all the above? I am also curious if the CDX 3/4 plywood and than coating with epoxy is fine or if I need to go with Marine Grade???

 

[Watermann]

I've only used the rigid sheet foam and none of my boats have sank :lol:

So you're replacing all the decking then? Transom too? I used both 1/2" and 3/4" on my rebuilds. One thing to think about is having your console line back up correctly if the bottom deck was originally 1/2", you could go 5/8".

 

[Woodonglass]

I'm not a tinner but IF I ever am, base on what I've learned here on this forum, I'll be using the Slab Foam on my boat. Easy to accomplish good drainage to the transom/bilge and it provides ample flotation and will never absorb water. I can't find any "CONS" in using it. But..I am an Old Dumb Okie so there IS THAT!!!!

 

[rickryder]

I'm with Waterman & WOG I used sheet foam also... nothing wrong with cdx ply....just have to seal it up well and it will last for years.

 

[Flukinicehole]

Not sure where you live but have a suggestion for the flotation. If you have a boat builder near you then they could be a life saver. I'm in the middle of restoring a boat and have the benefit of having a couple of builders within a 2 hour drive from me. I contacted the original builder of my boat and they have been a great help. They hooked me up with all the supplies I needed(at a reduced cost) and I will be hauling the boat to them to have it foamed. They can do the whole boat for less then it would cost me in materials. Most small builders would be willing to help if you have any near you. Just a thought...good luck with the restore.

 

[jigngrub]

At this time of year the rigid polystyrene sheet foam will be your best bet. The 2 part urethane requires minimum temps above 75*F for proper expansion and 85-90*F is optimum.

 

[kcassells]

I'm not a tinner but IF I ever am, base on what I've learned here on this forum, I'll be using the Slab Foam on my boat. Easy to accomplish good drainage to the transom/bilge and it provides ample flotation and will never absorb water. I can't find any "CONS" in using it. But..I am an Old Dumb Okie so there IS THAT!!!!

Wood,
I'm sure you posted it a millions times but can you direct me to "slab foam" info?

 

[jbcurt00]

KC: Got a tin boat? I wouldn't use rigid insulation in a fiberglass boat.

It's the blue/green/pink 4ft X 8ft slabs at HD or Lowes. It's available in many thicknesses from 1/2" to 2.5", possibly 3" thick.

 

[64osby]

Sheet foam could be used in non structural areas on a FG boat.

 

[Thasme]

Wood,
I'm sure you posted it a millions times but can you direct me to "slab foam" info?

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-will-it-take-to-float-your-boat?amp;posted=1

 

[Thasme]

At this time of year the rigid polystyrene sheet foam will be your best bet. The 2 part urethane requires minimum temps above 75*F for proper expansion and 85-90*F is optimum.

I Live in Deadwood (Lead), SD and as of right now it is 0 outside. I do have the privilege of a heated garage and the boss actually doesn't hassle me about having it full of a torn apart boat, Motorcycle, etc.. I can get the garage to whatever temp I need.

 

[Thasme]

Not sure where you live but have a suggestion for the flotation. If you have a boat builder near you then they could be a life saver. I'm in the middle of restoring a boat and have the benefit of having a couple of builders within a 2 hour drive from me. I contacted the original builder of my boat and they have been a great help. They hooked me up with all the supplies I needed(at a reduced cost) and I will be hauling the boat to them to have it foamed. They can do the whole boat for less then it would cost me in materials. Most small builders would be willing to help if you have any near you. Just a thought...good luck with the restore.

That would be awesome to have that ability unfortunately even the bigger marine shops don't carry the 2 part foam they kind of laughed at me when I told them what I was doing. I can definitely order some though.

 

[Thasme]

I've only used the rigid sheet foam and none of my boats have sank :lol:

So you're replacing all the decking then? Transom too? I used both 1/2" and 3/4" on my rebuilds. One thing to think about is having your console line back up correctly if the bottom deck was originally 1/2", you could go 5/8".

I am not getting into the transom it seems solid. Yes I am replacing the decking and have bought the 3/4 CDX. I will also be rebuilding the consoles. I went with the 3/4 just from what I had read on here and that's what most had used.

 

[Thasme]

I'm with Waterman & WOG I used sheet foam also... nothing wrong with cdx ply....just have to seal it up well and it will last for years.

I am leaning towards the rigid. I will be cutting the deck boards today and starting to seal them up. I still may go with the pour foam though as I could get the deck boards installed while waiting for foam to arrive (waiting a few weeks no matter what for foam either way)...kinda maxed my spending allowance for this pay check on wood, epoxy, carpet, rivets, and o yah beer.

 

[Teamster]

I am not getting into the transom it seems solid. Yes I am replacing the decking and have bought the 3/4 CDX. I will also be rebuilding the consoles. I went with the 3/4 just from what I had read on here and that's what most had used.

Might be a good idea to take some core samples of the transom,....

If it is dry, Then leave it,................

If it's wet, Well, It would be easier to replace while the rest of the boat is apart,...

 

[Watermann]

Yeah transom work seems daunting, having to pull the motor and all but it's really not bad with an OB. You didn't post up the year of your boat but I would recommend doing the extra work and replacing the transom and here's why.

If it's original then I know plywood and original boat builders apparent aversion to properly sealing the ply in the transoms. If pulled, you'll find also there's galvanic corrosion getting a foothold on the transom skin looking like white powder. If the ply isn't properly sealed it can be dry right now but from the years of use *wet and drying) the ply starts to de-laminate.

Peace of mind is knowing that boat is solid from one to the other and doesn't just "seem solid."