1910 trophy Bayliner

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
hope this works!!!

i have million questions but i would love if the quality of the pics could help you guys
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Sorry FM, that's not gunna work either. I take it you don't wanna use Photobucket??
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
I'll try and make a short video on how to upload pics to PB from your PC and then copy them to iBoats!!!
 
Last edited:

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Ok the sound quality is NOT very good but hopefully this will help you get the job done...

 
Last edited:

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
https://plus.google.com/photos/11415...92148447601889

thanks so much WOG!! im trying one last place threw gmail otherwise i will go photobucket...

i have uploaded tovso many different sites before you posted your youtube video

also i wanted to go threw gmail photo due to automatic update threw my phone

finaly i made it work. now i could get to the questions in hand
 
Last edited:

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
so here my questions... i did remove the both junior and main stringers. i found they were realy wet and some spots were a little rot.

i saw that the stringers were free floating and most ppl here are saying to PB them in. should i keep a little lip were the cavity is? and put the fillet over the hump?

there is also the bulkhead stringer age old question. i want to go ahead and go straight from the transom to the front of the boat but i have a problem. there is a STAIR like glass between 2 bulkhead im assuming it is the area were the center console storage space goes. should i keep the setup the same of the original or you PRO's have some fun ideas

i got soooooo much more questions but i feeel im gonna get kick out of this forum due to childlike questions (lol)

thanks

BTW you guys are the best!!!
 
Last edited:

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,575
FM,
From the pictures looks like your doing real good work. The stringers you say are floating look like the traditional method of install. Not sure what you mean by free floating. I would pb back the stringers.
 

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
OK! after reading a few threads that was the direction i was leaning too. I still have the other side to remove stringers and the transom. i am bringing reinforcements tomorrow thus it should be a productive day tomorrow.

ill post pics tomorrow
 

Arawak

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 27, 2010
Messages
486
i saw that the stringers were free floating and most ppl here are saying to PB them in. should i keep a little lip were the cavity is? and put the fillet over the hump?

there is also the bulkhead stringer age old question. i want to go ahead and go straight from the transom to the front of the boat but i have a problem. there is a STAIR like glass between 2 bulkhead im assuming it is the area were the center console storage space goes. should i keep the setup the same of the original or you PRO's have some fun ideas

So here's the thing. Bayliners, especially of that era, get a lot of flak from people as being poorly built boats, and they sort of are. But to put it in context, Bayliner sold a LOT of those boats, probably more than anyone else in that market, and you will be hard pressed to find many credible reports of incidents due to manufacturing defects. The fact that they are *still* in business in a place like the USA where ppl sue for everything, and that Brunswick was not concerned about carrying liabilities when they bought the brand tells you a lot too.

My point is that they are built *well enough*, so if you follow their design with better materials and workmanship it is unlikely you will sink. If that's what you want to do, go for it. Now... with that out of the way, many of us here want to do much better than that, because that's part of the fun.

I would strongly recommend you remove all the old tabbing, the "lip". On my boat the original tabbing had delaminated in a couple places and was close to coming out in others. You want to get rid of that shoddy stuff and get your tabbing right onto the hull roving.

Get a large chisel or a wrecking bar with a wide flat edge, get under the inside seam and tap. It should delaminate from the hull fairly easily... you'll see the colour change to whitish when it separates. Start carefully... once you get in going you'll get the hang of it and will discover that you aren't in any danger of damaging the hull. You'll still have sanding to do when you're done, but this way is far FAR better than grinding it all out.

See that bulkhead with the plastic strip? It partially supports the sole. You'll want to take a template of its profile, and also measurements from the top of the hull so that you can replace it.

Floating stringers vs PB... personally I like the PB, but floating ensures no hard spots. I "float" the stringers just above the hull using bits of blue foam, and ensure the gap is completely filled with PB, and make nice wide fillets so that the load is transferred from the hull evenly over a wide area.
 
Last edited:

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
ok.. point taken..

i just liked your setup better than the original. i like the flaring of the transom design so the stringers lay on the transom. i dont think i could do it due to the big gap between the extention part to the hull of the boat. unless i and plywood to do a iregular shape and PB the remaining gap.

thanks for the advise
 

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
well good day yesterday... removed stringers transom. went smooth..

im really happy how it coming
 

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
Thanks Arawak!

the amount of rot was staggering.. i dont know how the engine and the boat stayed a float. on the starboard side there tremendous amount of water trapped. The transom was black on the bottom. i mean im very happt i decided to go forward with this project,
 

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
im still far away but need to get some advice. i am purchasing my resin and CSM etc from a local fiberglass mold maker. He's got everything except 1708 glass. he did have some other woven stuff but it had spaces between the weaves.

My question is could i just use CSM 1.5 or i need to by the 1708 for my stringers and transom?

thanks
 

Arawak

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 27, 2010
Messages
486
You want 1708. I think you could go CSM and double bias 45/45 knitted fabric but it's a lot easier when they are stitched or otherwise bound. You do NOT want woven fabric... unless you cut it on an angle half your glass will be doing nothing.

Don't cheap out here... order online if you have to. I ordered from Noah's in Toronto.
 
Top