I'm going to assume your boat is just a bigger version of mine.
So, I think the first thing you're going to have to figure out is how to get the cap off. As you can see from my thread, we built a frame for this and used chain hoists to lift it up. Take this step seriously, it's *heavy*.
You'll want to remove the motor, the console, and as many cables as you can first. It's possible to leave the console in place, if you have a good enough lifting system.
Next, take off the rubrail. Start by removing the rubber strip, and then you have to drill the rivets out. In theory, this should be easy, but some eediat used steel rivets on mine, which was a huge PITA.
You'll have to disconnect all the hoses and wiring that connect the two halves before separating.
After the cap comes off, you're looking at the tearout. Make sure you have the hull well supported before you start this... once the stringers and bulkheads are out the hull will be floppy and could lose its shape. Mine is resting on the floor, with 2x4s supporting the hull under where the stringers were, plus some supports holding the sides in place.
The tearout will probably takes the most amount of time, and you will likely find things you don't want to. Again, assuming your boat is the same as mine...
Tank needs to come out. This sounds easy, but for me it took a bit of work to cut out the glass holding it in place. Clean it well and inspect. If it's pitted badly you'll probably want to replace it. You really don't want to have to fix a leaking tank in a couple years. If you're in salt water, you may wish to sand it down and paint it with coal tar epoxy before you put it back.
I'd start by using a drill to take samples of your stringers and transom. Most likely you will find rot spots in the transom, especially close to any transom penetrations. The top of the transom on mine was not sealed in any way, and so it was starting to rot there too. I don't ever want to have to open this boat up again, so I replaced mine. In fact, I removed all the wood.
You're going to have to remove the foam. Most likely it's soaked anyway, but either way it's in the way. Don't try to do a perfect job, you will get rid of the sticky bits when you remove the old tabbing. Sawzall, square blade spade, etc
Now, you'll cut the stringers and bulkheads out. I used a sawzall and just cut them close to the hull. There's a lot of tabbing so you shouldn't have to worry too much about damaging the hull. Once I could see the blade on either side of the stringer it just followed the hull nicely.
Use a chisel or whatever to pop the bits of stringer out. Now comes the fun part. Polyester fiberglass is often not too hard to delaminate when it has been laid up after the hull cures. rather than grinding this stuff down, use a flat wrecking bar
sort of like this one to get between the hull and the tabbing. You might need a large chisel to get it started, but mine just needed a couple whacks with my hand. You'll see the colour change when it delaminates. You should be able to get the vast majority of the old CSM tabbing out of the boat this way. You're left with CSM fuzz, which I think the guys here call monkey fur. This stuff you will need to sand out.
Note that the chines are filled with strips of pine or something, and glassed over. I removed this, and plan to replace with foam. You might be able to leave it in place on yours.
I'll pause, as this is currently about as far as I have gotten. I'd expect this to take you 6 to 8 weeks, if you're doing it on weekends and the occasional weeknight.
Eventually, you will have the hull all prepped and ready to receive new stringers. I would fabricate these out of two layers of 1/2" plywood. You should do some research to decide what type and grade you want to use. I used G1S fir plywood from Home Depot, having dug through the stacks to find the best pieces. If XL fir marine ply is available to you, you might consider that.
Woodonglass has a link in his signature that shows you how to lay up stringers. Polyester or epoxy, it's essentially the same. You do not need CSM for epoxy, so rather than the 1708 you would use 12oz or 18oz double bias (45/45) without matting. Another good resource is
the Howto section at bateau.com
Say two more weeks to make your stringers and tab them in.
Then you'll want to cover the stringers with plywood to make new foam compartments. Make sure you lay down at least 4oz of cloth over the plywood if it's softwood or else it will eventually check, absorb water, and put you back to square one. If you use hardwood marine ply you can put two coats of epoxy and save the cloth, but it's probably not cost effective.
Search this site for threads where guys are putting foam in. I've never done this myself, so you'd best follow their lead. But hopefully I'll be foaming before you, so if there are any Bayliner specific gotchas I'll find them first.
Maybe another 2-3 weeks for this.
After that... I guess it's just putting the tank and everything else back in the reverse order. I'm hoping 2 weeks or so.
Hope this helps.
