1970 gulfstream makeover... Somewhat

[kcassells]

Yup that's right Fishin.... I mean Family first! Hey you're kicking some butt! What is the degrees of humidity in general anyhow? I had some white blush here yesterday but it was 6" deep and a real mess.

 

[kinaiahi61]

The humidity fluctuates a lot here. Some of the white was from me some were from rain coming between the liner, probably from the Outrigger or pole holders. But I mixed some PB and radiused all the places where water could drip down. Hopefully that'll stop it until I can get everything in and figure out a drain for it. Mahalo for the kind words. As weird as it might sound, it really does help. Aloha

 

[kcassells]

Kin,
This is way of just supporting each other. Kind words, instructive ideas, safety, opinions, debates, conversation, techniques, materials, alternative solutions and basic proper install.IBoats is a plethora of pain and gain and knowledge.
I think I'm gonna want to move this to a IBoats TV series to show how you can catch the tuna on properly renovated boats from lake, to stream to ocean.
Oh yea... I'm broke...maybe next year year.

KC
This forum does kick ass!

 

[kinaiahi61]

Hopefully I can get a big tuna on the go pro and post on youtube for you guys. Or a big marlin. Any one would bring a big smile to my face. I can't wait to go catching and not fishing.

 

[kinaiahi61]

When I'm wetting out, should I wet all layers at once, lay down and then chase the bubbles? I've been doing a layer at a time, as it seemed harder to get the bubbles out if the first couple of layers still had bubbles. Yesterday Mr Murphy liked bubbles I guess, because on one section it took forever to get the bubbles out. Just wondering if there's a better way that would save me time. It seems to just be time, and labor intensive. But the hull thickening and strengthening will be done soon. I'm glad I ground out the white sections that had a lot of water. It seems that it was rain water that leaked through the liner. I guess as the boat moved it must have leaked down, and the sweat doesn't help either. The glass seemed fine, but it seemed like the knytex wasn't able to totally dissolve and was left dry looking when I ground it. Another note is not to lay till it gets dark, or at least have a light ready. Hard to see bubbles, and hard to see period. Also tried to lay a couple more sections with the resin and ended up being just shy. Should have mixed a little more but thought it was good until I checked it later and had bubbles where it covered another seam. Oh well, will look at it tomorrow and see if it needs to be ground out. Photos are of the grinder area. I also added more to the base of the transom, another layer of tabbing around, plus more in the corners for good measure. Can't wait to move to the next section of adding the transom back and stringers. Aloha

 

[kcassells]

You don't get to much time with big layups. So you work the bubbles and throw on the next pc. and work all the bubbles. Do you have a bubble roller? that helps out alot to move air out to the sides.

 

[Woodonglass]

How about giving us some detailed info on exactly what your process is for laying out a large lamination. What are you classifying as a big layup? I try to stay around 2-3 yds at the most at one time. Here's how I'd recommend doing it.. Roll out an ample amount of resin first then immediately lay the fabric or CSM onto the resin and use a bubble roller starting in the center and rolling toward the edges to force the resin up from the bottom up through the fabric/csm to wet it out. Look for dry spots and pour additional resin there and use a short nap 4-6" nylon roller to roll the resin, again always from the center out to the edges and then follow up with the bubble roller. Don't spend to much time in one spot. A couple of passes and done. Use just enuf resin to make the fabric go clear and that's all. Less Is More!!!! Easier to add more than to take away. When using 50" fabric you should be able to do 2 yd batches pretty easy this way. That's about 20 sq ft.

 

[kinaiahi61]

Im cleaning with acetone, rolling out the mat in place, chase bubbles. Then wetting out the 1708 on the wetting board. Then laying down the wet out material, chasing bubbles with bubble buster roller, and cut chip brush. I don't think that I'm going from the middle as much as I should. I also wet it out on the actual place that I'm laying to take up any extra resin after the first layer, turn it over (1708) put mat down and chase bubbles. If the surface was flat it would be alot easier. Instead there are multiple chines, where most of the bubbles are the hardest to get rid of. The 1708 keeps fighting the multiple angles. The chines are indented about inch to inch and a half at 90 degrees on a forty five slope. I'll get some pics today, but this is taking alot longer than I expected. I cut down the pieces from 50 inches square to be more manageable in the chines. I'll roll from the middle out only and see if it's better. Are you guys wetting out before laying the 1708 down? Thanks for the help, aloha

 

[Mark72233]

Not suggesting that you change your methods but I haven't used a bubble buster since the first couple of times I tried using it and hated it. I don't use chip brushes either unless there is a tight spot or turn. I clean the surface with acetone and within minutes while the surface is still tacky from the acetone wash I put done a thin layer of resin. I wet out the csm or 1708 really well on a non porous surface and make sure I have no dry spots before I even move it to its final location. If its over a stringers or bulkhead or on the side I always start rolling it with a 3-4" paint roller with just a little resin on it starting from the top in the middle and working my way down and out equally until it is stretched out and laying flat usually with little to no air pockets. If it is a relatively flat surface I will start from the middle and work my way out equally. if there is a depression like a hull chine I will work towards that first and softly work away from it trying not to pull it back out of the depression. Once it looks laid down and bubble free I put a little more resin on it and work it in just a little. And like Wood and many others have said stop and resist the temptation of going back over it once it looks good walk away.

 

[Woodonglass]

I only use a bubble buster on CSM, Never on Fabric. I don't pre wet. I roll out a layer of resin on the area to be covered and then lay the glass. If it's CSM I use the BBR to roll it down and add resin as needed. If it's Fabric I use my hands to lay it down and press it it place and a semi wet roller to roll it down and start to get the resin to come up and thru from the bottom and again add resin as needed. For me, with resin Less is More. When the glass goes clear it's got enuf resin and I move on. I truly believe most people use way to much resin and in actuality a resin rich layup is actually weaker.

 

[Mark72233]

I would listen to Woods advise over mine since I have used 35 gallons of resin already on my rebuild.

 

[Woodonglass]

A gallon of resin should wet out 4 sq. yards of 1.5oz CSM and about the same for 1708. That's 36 sq ft. Based on that you should be able to cover the top and bottom of a typical 16' boats deck with a layer of CSM using about 5 gallons of resin this includes the PRE-Coating. Sooo if you calculate our sq. footage and use this formula and then calculate how much resin you're using you can kinda see if you're using too much!!! I know when I first Started I used WAY to much and I was a young kid. The Old man was always gripin at me. I can still recall when the griping stopped, and he would send guys to have me show them stuff. Takes a while to figure it out but once you get it... you got it. We didn't have 1708 back then. Used a LOT of Woven Roving and stuff was NO Fun at all!!! Used to beat it with a hammer to make it conform to edges and corners!!!

 

[kinaiahi61]

It seems that the bubbles are just gonna be there no matter what. I started in the middle and rolled out, it was still a pain. I laid resin until it was clear but there were alot of bubbles. It seemed that it needed more resin because I rolled and rolled and it didn't go away. I added a little resin and voila. I'll try to lay in place and see. It seems that it's alot easier because the 1708 won't stretch as much and deform. Anyway, got the hull done today. No pics as it was late again. I'll try and post some next time I work on the boat. Next up are the transom and stringers. I roll out the resin and take away any that comes out. I have a love hate relationship with this project, hope the next section goes smooth. Aloha

 

[kcassells]

Kin,
Roll away and ifinya gots to fix it later...well ya can! Yup sometimes it sure does feel like a Love-Hate thing!:lol:

 

[kinaiahi61]

No Title

Got some work done. Needed to refit the transom after thickening the hull. Got the stringers in and cut. Just need to find time install them. Planning on putting a 2x4 across the bottom of the transom to catch the middle. I took measurements and it could go in a little. The bolts definitely sucked the transom in.

 

[kinaiahi61]

No work on the boat but got to get out yesterday on a friends boat. Ended up with two tunas, one around 60 lbs and the other around 80 lbs. Aloha

 

[kcassells]

Whats the @ sell rate per lb. for tuna there? And on another note............ohhhhhI'm so jealous!
Good for you!

 

[nurseman]

Nice!! We don't have open water yet...:blue:

 

[kinaiahi61]

Tunas at a pretty good price now. Not sure what my friend got but heard another fisherman got $6/lb the other day. They don't go much higher for wholesale, but try and get it at market and you pay $15-20+ lb depending on quality. The fisherman always get lowballed.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Tunas at a pretty good price now. Not sure what my friend got but heard another fisherman got $6/lb the other day. They don't go much higher for wholesale, but try and get it at market and you pay $15-20+ lb depending on quality. The fisherman always get lowballed.

gotta be the middle man, they got it easy.