1970 gulfstream makeover... Somewhat

kinaiahi61

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Is there anyway to delete the last post? The photo still didn't come out good.
 

kinaiahi61

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Mark72, how did you post your pics, mine aren't coming out like that, just small.
 

kcassells

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Is there anyway to delete the last post? The photo still didn't come out good.


Go back to comment and hit edit and make your changes.If you're using photobucket then there are 3 different sizes you can use for the post.
 

Mark72233

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I don't have a clue. Just used photobucket and that is how they come out. I have never messed with sizing anything.
 

kinaiahi61

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I must be blind because I can't find the edit button. Yes I am using bubble buster and chip brush that's cut down, and a rubber spreader if need be. The rolls are kept dry, it's definitely from the sweat in the suit. I saw some of it leak out.
 

kcassells

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Edit button is only available for awhile shortly after you make the post.
 
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kcassells

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Ok Ok, I think I came up with a solution in regards to the sweating. Let me know what you think? At the end of the day you'll have it all figured out!!:This should work!
images
 

kinaiahi61

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I got more glass down. Finished the starboard side of the bow and most of the cut throughs and other patches that needed to be done. Had some minor air bubbles but over all pretty good. It's definitely alot stronger than the original hull. I ended up with one layer of 1.5 Oz mat, one layer of 1708, than layers of 12 and 6 inch tape over the chines. These pretty much ended up overlapping each other, giving 4 layers total. Once the stringers go in, a couple more tabbing of 6 and 12 to hold them should make the hull bullet proof. I also patched up the cracked area. I used 3 layers of 1708, one bigger than the other. This section will also have 1 layer of 1.5 Oz , 1708, 12 and 6 inch 1708 tape. When I scuff to do the next layer, is a DA with 50 or 60 grit enough or do I need to use the grinder with 40 or 36 grit? In the past I've laid everything at once or by the next day to have the chemical bond. But this project is pretty big. Mahalo, I'll post pics next week.
 
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Woodonglass

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As long as it doesn't get big time contaminated inside your tent, and you're NOT using Waxed resin. All you really need to do is wipe it down with acetone and go to town. No Sanding required. Laminating Resin will stay tacky for up to a Week and allow you to lay the next layer without sanding as long as it doesn't get contaminated with dust etc....:)
 

kinaiahi61

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As long as it doesn't get big time contaminated inside your tent, and you're NOT using Waxed resin. All you really need to do is wipe it down with acetone and go to town. No Sanding required. Laminating Resin will stay tacky for up to a Week and allow you to lay the next layer without sanding as long as it doesn't get contaminated with dust etc....:)
Thanks WOG! I can just knock down the high spots/nubs wipe with acetone and lay again. I always thought that it had to be within 24 hours, but even the guy at Fiberglass Hawaii said just wipe, as long as theres no wax and lay again. I am using ISO resin. Oh yeah, made my first resin puck the other day. Nice paper weight I guess. LOL. As always, mahalo nui for all the insight and help. I will keep the post going to show progress, mess ups, and everything else in between to help others going through the same process.
 

kcassells

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You're a Good man Kin! Keep up the work and try to shoot over some pics. if you get a chance.
 

kinaiahi61

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​Here are some pics. ​Here are some pics. The first two are some patches of the cut throughs and former drains. The first on the bottom is the starboard side that didn't come out the greatest. Kept getting air bubbles. I think that I forgot to coat the hull with resin first and the mat acted weird. Not bad enough to grind out in my opinion, but not stellar. The last photo is laid today, the port bow. It came out pretty good. I was able to chase bubbles better than the other side. Maybe because I remembered to coat the hull with resin first? Or just the fact that I was able to work it longer??? But it came out better that the other side none the less. Hull is definitely stiffer and solid. The mat was giving me a hard time when I moved it from the rolling table. I think I'm gonna roll in place and then roll the 1708 on the rolling station. There were still some white spots, probably from the sweat dripping. But nothing like the back. I also figured that the back had water that leaked in from the top, in between the liner. So while not all sweat, it was all water, making the milky resin. Looking forward to glassing more of the hull, then putting in the structure of stringers, bulkheads, etc. Aloha

image_216388.jpg image_216391.jpg image_216389.jpg image_216390.jpg
 
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kinaiahi61

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No Title

Here's the last shot of the day.
 

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kinaiahi61

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Mahalo Kcassells!!! I needed to dial the catalyst back even further and try and chill all the resin. Its been hot so the working time gets short when trying to lay this many layers. But it is getting better. Definitely better than the early lay ups. The iso resin is a lot more resilient. It doesn't crack like the typical marine laminating, its way more flexible. Pretty impressed with it so far. Only thing is the resin pump from NAPA doesn't seem to like the resin too much, it tends to get stuck. But all in all I learned to dial the expectations back and just go with the flow. Plus with no help, it gets arduous getting in and out of the boat for more resin and supplies. But all good. Hope to lay more glass tomorrow and hopefully take some pics. Aloha no
 

kinaiahi61

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Got little more done. Still got some white spots, but the layups are better. It's HOT under the tarp, even with the sides open. Aloha
 

Woodonglass

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With the High Temps and Tarp you're prolly generating a LOT of Humidity and thus you're gunna have problems with the resin forming some white blush. I don't think it can be help unless you provide more AIR into the calculation. If you could just somehow Shade the area and not totally TENT it you would prevent so much Humidity accumulation. That's just an Old Dumb Okies Humble Opinion and prolly not worth a whole lot!!!;):sleeping:
 

kinaiahi61

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I wish I could do that. I was running the fan but then it sped up the cure times so I turned it off. Once this process is done, I think it'll go alot faster, because there will only be two layers, 6 and 12" tape for stringers and bulkheads. The hull has stiffened up quite a bit already. If I didn't need to take my daughter to school, pick her up, etc I could get more done in a day. But, family first. Just takes more work on my part.
 
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