1970 gulfstream makeover... Somewhat

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Well I'm on the Freakin Fence. and for a long time! Dats my opinion. Like everyone says... a plethera of opinions. 99% say plug it up. Nice to finally think I'm a 1%lol!:laugh:
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 10, 2012
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215
Can't wait. Here we can work all year round. It's been cooler though, in the 60's. Haha probably hot for you guys. But I was fishing 3-4 or more times a month so I really miss it. Plus need it running to try and recoup some of this money. We usually have a small run of tuna around December and would be nice to get on that. But at the rate that I'm going doesn't look like I'll make it. Once the grinding is done it should get better since I won't need to keep it tarped and be in a tyvek and full face mask. Thus longer working hours. But it'll all be worth it in the end.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 10, 2012
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Finally got more time to work on the boat. Took out the middle stringer and did some grinding. Thanks WOG for the fan suggestion. Got it going, it helped but its still a snow storm in there. Also went to the HD to buy another length of vacuum hose so I could leave the vac outside and just run the cord and hose inside. When I need it I just plug in the cord (I leave the switch on and use the plug as the switch). I guess no matter what, it is what it is. A whole bunch of dust. For those who have never removed a stringer embedded in resin in the hull of a boat, you need to do it. It's sooooo fun, especially in a hot suit, under a tarp, in the bow. Got out the good old hammer, chisel, and sawzall. Tried using a mud gun to bust the resin, but it didn't work too good. I think the bit I had on was too wide. The chisel and hammer wasn't the fastest but it did the job (oh yah, and the flat bar and crowbar). I cut the immense load of bedding putty with the grinder and diamond wheel once I was out of the bow. Used the hammer and the rest of the tools the rest of the way. I guess there is a bright side of someone doing a poor job of laminating, it comes out easy. I was able to peel up previous work with the claw of the hammer, a lot better that having to grind it all:). I also had to tear out some of my previous work and it was good to know it was solid, but a lot harder to tear out. Aloha
middle stringer removal.jpg middlestringerback.jpg Fan.jpg middlestringer1.jpg
 

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Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 13, 2014
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686
Like the idea of bringing the vac cord inside, my idea was a 6' piece of PVC to press the switch which just happens to be big and on the top, dooh! Call it my vacuum remote control. Don't know if they make em for your brand of vac but they make fine particle vaccum bags, keeps your filter perfectly clean and you just toss em when full. My shopvac is 16 Gal and I think I'm only on the third bag so they don't fill up as quick as you'd think. Anyway, just an idea - keep up the good work! Oh, I did my grinding in a tent and usually it was in the 80's so I feel for you but it will end!
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 10, 2012
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Like the idea of bringing the vac cord inside, my idea was a 6' piece of PVC to press the switch which just happens to be big and on the top, dooh! Call it my vacuum remote control. Don't know if they make em for your brand of vac but they make fine particle vaccum bags, keeps your filter perfectly clean and you just toss em when full. My shopvac is 16 Gal and I think I'm only on the third bag so they don't fill up as quick as you'd think. Anyway, just an idea - keep up the good work! Oh, I did my grinding in a tent and usually it was in the 80's so I feel for you but it will end!

Just my luck, my vacuum/blower is 16 gallon Rdigid from HD and it doesn't use bags. I was debating on just buying another, but I think I'll just deal with the dust for now. That's $100 that could be spent else where. When I was removing the center stringer it smelt like it might have been soaked with some gas. Maybe just from it being wet but thank God its all coming out. I can't wait for the grinding to end. I wish that the grinding disk would cut like when they're new. Seems like they never stay really sharp for too long. Oh well, the ZEC 16 grit on the 7" grinder is doing some damage, and I thought 16 grit would be too rough.
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 13, 2014
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686
Yeah, they do make them but I'm not sure if this is for just one, if it is they aren't cheap. Anyway, just a small suggestion that may not work out but you may want to take a look next time you're in HD. Here is the website:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Hi...3502/100390230. I found someone selling an off brand version for mine and bought like 10-15 of them so it ended up under $5 per bag but that's probably not an affordable option for you. Oh, well.

I just saw a review so that is for 2 bags - a little better...
 
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kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 10, 2012
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215
There's nothing that would hold the bag in mine. Nothing made for it. It's a different model than the ones that are on the bag. I bought them before but no way to put them in.
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
686
Ah, ok. Looks like you already researched this thoroughly. I didn't think about thaaaaat!
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 10, 2012
Messages
215
Got a few more hours of grinding in. Used the 7" with the 16 grit zec pad. That thing will take some material off. Gonna use the 4.5 with the zec 24 and 40 flap disk in the smaller spaces. The hull definitely needs reinforcing where the cracks are. After grinding when I stepped over there could feel it cracking so I made sure not to step around there too much. Would a layer of 1.5 mat with a 6 inch and twelve inch 1708 over it be enough. Or should I do like 4 layers of 1708 after the Mat?
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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I would go with the 1708 3-4 layups all at once. Depends on how much build up/strength you need or want on how many layers to use. Mat doesn't provide any real
structural support as I understand it.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 10, 2012
Messages
215
I would go with the 1708 3-4 layups all at once. Depends on how much build up/strength you need or want on how many layers to use. Mat doesn't provide any real
structural support as I understand it.

Yah mat has little to no structural support. I use it for its adhesive qualities and to fill the irregularities in the surface. The Mat on the 1708 doesn't conform as well as just mat IMHO. I THINK I'll put mat, 6", 9", 12" of 1708 over the Crack area and a whOle layer over the bottom of the hull. I was instructed and have read to always use mat first and last. Might be wrong but just what I've done and heard.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Co-rect me if I'm wrong. But the only thing mat will give you is a probable flatter surface to adhere to with out having to work out da bubbles as much.
No your never wrong and always keep asking away. I'm just a lackey like everyone else here but the info is abundant. Ask WOG, he always tells me when I'm wrong.
Which is most the time.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
If you're gunna layer the entire hull with 1708 then for your OOPS patches you only need..CSM and and 2 1708. Think about it. You also have to do some patch work on the outside which should be a minimum of 2 layers of CSM. and some fairing material. That means the patch will have Fairing 3 layers of CSM and 3 Layers of 1708 That should be MORE than adequate strength. Tape it off on the outside then fill the gash with some PB and then lay down a layer of CSM and two more 1708(3" and 6"). You'll be good to go on the inside.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Tired tonight...Worked on my boat all day {that I really don't have cause I dropped my camera in the EEEEpoxy} But beat none the less. Always shoot me pics
of your Tuna catches.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 10, 2012
Messages
215
Co-rect me if I'm wrong. But the only thing mat will give you is a probable flatter surface to adhere to with out having to work out da bubbles as much.
No your never wrong and always keep asking away. I'm just a lackey like everyone else here but the info is abundant. Ask WOG, he always tells me when I'm wrong.
Which is most the time.
The bubble issue is what I forgot to mention but is what I meant by a flatter surface. Nothing like doing a layup and seeing the bubbles below. Which were most likely due to the grinding and not having a flat surface for the 1708. I believe the double mat is also so there's a barrier to water.
 

kinaiahi61

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 10, 2012
Messages
215
If you're gunna layer the entire hull with 1708 then for your OOPS patches you only need..CSM and and 2 1708. Think about it. You also have to do some patch work on the outside which should be a minimum of 2 layers of CSM. and some fairing material. That means the patch will have Fairing 3 layers of CSM and 3 Layers of 1708 That should be MORE than adequate strength. Tape it off on the outside then fill the gash with some PB and then lay down a layer of CSM and two more 1708(3" and 6"). You'll be good to go on the inside.
Thanks WOG. The Crack that I was talking about is where the hull had a hair line Crack and got me into this whole ordeal. Would I use the same layup as you recommended or go heavier due to the glass already being breached? Plus it's right on the bottom chine that takes the abuse right on the side of the center of the hull. I'll try and get a pic of it tomorrow.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Kin, How long is the crack? Yea that pic will be worth a thousand words.
 
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