Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

archbuilder

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I also spent last night filling all of the 2,000,000 holes from the roof canopy snaps. I used USC Duraglass, very nice product. Sort of like harry peanut butter that you can use like bondo. I also glassed over a number of other larger holes....getting one step closer to to painting the top!
 

Patfromny

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Dude, you just didn't want to ease corners,. Great idea arch. Build the eases into the corners.
 

archbuilder

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We'll see how it turns out Pat. Its been a pain so far, I wish I would have just bought a big cove bit and milled them out of solid stock. But it was an experiment. I guess we'll see how it comes out.
 

archbuilder

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I didn't make as much progress as I hoped today, building the mold turned into a pretty good woodworking exercise! I finally wrapped it up, but decided to wait fill tomorrow to put in the clay and spray the pva. No reason to get in a hurry and screw it up. I only have a couple of places that need the clay. I'm thinking I need to practice my clay skills. If you could do that well, it would speed up building the mold a lot. As I suspected, using the cove really slowed things down a lot.










I should have it laid up tomorrow. I really like the MDO by the way, totally worth the money. Light, flat, no voids and extremely stable.
 
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archbuilder

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laid up two layers of CSM tonight, pretty good workout! tomorrow it gets two layers of 1708 and we can pop it out of the mold.

 

archbuilder

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Hey Mike, this is oil based....so WD-40 might work better ! They do say that you can smooth it with mineral spirits, but this is sort of like hand grenades....if I get it close, I can fix everything else with the body work!
 

Patfromny

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I don't know the first thing about fiberglass,so bear with me please. Are you doing the layers in reverse? You just laid up the outer surface correct? It looks professional from here. Must be gratifying seeing finish pieces starting to fill the hanger
 

archbuilder

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Yes Pat, I first layer is actually the finished surface. If I was doing a lot of parts or gel coating I would probably make a plug first, which is essentially an exact replica of the part, then make a fiberglass mold off of it, then lay the parts up in the mold. The advantage is that you can get the pug perfectly smooth, and therefore the mold and the parts come out super smooth. I skipped the pug, and just made a plywood mold. My surface won't be as nice, but I am planing on doing body work and painting anyhow. I just cut out one step to speed up the process.
 

archbuilder

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I will have to look when I get back to the shop woe. Here is a shot of the 1708 before I wet it out. One more layer after lunch
 

Patfromny

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Thanks for the explanation. 1708 and csm are completely foreign words to me. I Wasn't sure which one you did first or last. I Figured you were doing it backwords. Makes sense to me to save a step...and some cash by doing it this way. Couldn't you just lay another layer of csm on top after it comes out of the mold to smooth or is that more work than doing the bodywork? Sorry about the questions, it is just interesting as heck to me.
 

archbuilder

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You could Pat, but I should have a relatively flat surface to work with. A little sanding and few pinholse on the flat surfaces. The inside corners are always the hard part, but that is true of laying up any glass. I just finished the last layer of 1708, so I should be popping it out of the mold later....the fun part....assuming it fits :eek:
 

archbuilder

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does anyone have any suggestions on insulation for the dog house? I am looking at dynamat, but there are a few other products out there. The original dog house had a fiberglass product with a foil face on it.
 

archbuilder

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Thanks for the info jb I will take look at his thread. Here are a few shots of the un-molded dog house






 

Woodonglass

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How about a shot of the thickness of the layup!! One again...Outstanding Craftsmanship!!!:clap2:
 

archbuilder

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Thanks Mike! I will get one tomorrow when i cut it out. It tapers down at the edges right now since the layups didn't necessarily stop at the same point. my guess is about 3/16", that was what the back deck sections worked out to and this is the same schedule.
 
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