Formula 27PC Transom Work

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alldodge

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You could fasten some "L" brackets to the stringers temporarily or go across the tank in a few places with a 1" piece of wood and tie them into the stringers. IMO, that would be better than trying to estimate the amount of weight needed to keep it in place.

You definitely do not want a 'do over' on the foaming.

Also, are there neoprene pads under the tank, along the ribs of the hull?

Yes, the rubber pads were reused.
I have everything stapled down, but think I will put some screws through because they hold better. No do over hear, if that happens I might just use the my dozer to rearrange the boat
 

Scott Danforth

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Yes, the rubber pads were reused.
I have everything stapled down, but think I will put some screws through because they hold better. No do over hear, if that happens I might just use the my dozer to rearrange the boat

If you do that...lem me take the motor first....:)
 

alldodge

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Epoxy paint on the under side of the wood
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Installed the deck over the fuel tank

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Cut the holes and foamed tank area

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tpenfield

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Somebody has been very busy . . . :D :thumb:

The reconstruction details look good. I think the patient will life a long life.
 

alldodge

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Completed foaming all the areas over the last few days and did a little epoxy painting. Still need to lay glass over the holes, cracks and bare wood surfaces. Should be painting and start the re-installation of everything, I hope next week
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Made to batches of epoxy with caposil and the first was real think, really to thick. Used two containers and (one A and one B) with the correct amount. Added caposil to part B until it was thick, then it went from a little runny to real stiff. Added part A to the mix and had a hard time mixing it in. It took no time for the container to start getting warm. Tried spreading it and the container started getting to hot to touch.

Next day still needed about a 1/16 or so on the very bottom layer so I mixed up a smaller batch (4 oz of B). Mixed in just a little caposil and was still a bit runny, but not much. Then added an unmeasured amount of A. It went on nice and got the level I was looking for, but it has not fully harden. Put a heater on it today to see if that will help, otherwise I have to dig, grind it out and try again Photo600.jpg
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Warmed things up and added some more foam to the cracks next to the side of the water tank. Plan to smooth the foam edges out then seal the tank to all edges using 5200
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Woodonglass

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When I make my epoxy PB I mix the Resin (A) and Catalyst (B) first and then add the Cabosil. I find it much easier to control the consistency that way. With epoxy having such a long working time I don't worry about it kicking off to fast. I don't use a lot of epoxy but when I do, I use the 3 to 1 medium epoxy. What are you using?
 

alldodge

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I'm using the same, 3 to 1 medium. The US Composite stuff says 20 to 25 minutes pot life at 80F (it was 85), and the first time we mixed we spent about 15 trying to get the consistency.

Just checked the second layer and it is still soft, so I get to remove it tomorrow. It was about 60 today and getting up to 79 tomorrow Least I only have a thin layer to remove
 

johnnybgood

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I have been mixing up epoxy PB and the first batch I made mixed as you suggested but found in the heat it set up too fast so I have been mixing the Cabosil in the resin first then adding the catalyst then adjust with more Cabosil if needed. Here in SC its been in the upper 80s low 90s extend the working time I have been putting in in a bucket of ice. I use the 3 to 1 epoxy resin measure out 12oz of resin mix the Cabosil in making it thicker than I want it as the 4 oz of catalyst will loosen it up some you can all ways add a little more Cabosil Hope this helps you out
 

89 resorter

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I'm also using the 3 to 1 epoxy on my rebuild and I found that the pot life is longer if I dump the PB into a paint pan once it is mixed. I had a lot less time to work when I just left the PB in the quart mixing cup (I guess the more confined area the mixture sits in, the shorter the pot life). Once I got onto this trick, I just bought a bunch of the cheep plastic paint pan liners.
 

tpenfield

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One of the things that I like about VE resin (verses Poly or epoxy) is that it takes a while to 'kick', giving greater working time. I recall mixing my first 'pot' of epoxy many years ago only to find it solidified after about 10 minutes :facepalm:
 

alldodge

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Thanks guys, about got it ready to go. Also put some 5200 around the fuel and water tank openings. Used the slow cure so it states 7 days to fully cure. Figure after 4 days I can epoxy paint over it for a more sealed surface
 

mr300z87

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Hi AD, your work is looking good. I have been following along since you started this project, unfortunately I have very little FG experience so I can not give much advise here. I bet you can't wait to take her out for a shakedown with the new power and hear the roar of 500+ cubic inches of bbc. Also wanted to thank you for posting in my merc cruiser engine threads as your comments have helped and things are coming along nicely. Have a great holiday weekend.
 

alldodge

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Hi AD, your work is looking good. I have been following along since you started this project, unfortunately I have very little FG experience so I can not give much advise here. I bet you can't wait to take her out for a shakedown with the new power and hear the roar of 500+ cubic inches of bbc. Also wanted to thank you for posting in my merc cruiser engine threads as your comments have helped and things are coming along nicely. Have a great holiday weekend.

Thanks mr300, it is slow going and if I would have just kept at it, it would be done. But so it goes
 

mr300z87

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I hear that!! The 4 letter words work and life always get in the way of my fun.
 

alldodge

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Transom is done and stuff is back in the boat. Now going back to the engine thread until the install and testing is done.



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Photo615.jpg

Installed the Gen also just don't have a pic yet. This was a job glad it's done. Now to the engine side
 

gr8knurlin

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WOW that's a lot of work.... Mad respect, not sure I'd ever have the patients to even attempt something like that. Read the first 3 pages but figured I'd better get back to work. The reason I'm researching this is because on My "new to me" 2001 Formula 27 PC my fresh water tank is not holding water and it needs to be going somewhere...
My motor compartment bilge has about 2" of water in it from rain drainage but definitely not the 204L of water I've lost from 2 tank fills.
aluminum fresh water tank will not come out without cutting some of the structure so I guess that is my next move and find out if it's holding standing water somewhere mid-ship but I don't think so because all my bilge areas seem fine - empty under the cabin floor, slight moisture under the aft but not more than 1/2" and as stated about 2" in the mechanical compartment.

I've noticed the boat listing to the starboard side and figured it might be the tender & motor on the davit system so I pulled it off and she still leans, my waste tank is 2/3 full so I'm not sure if that is enough to cause the boat to lean or if I might have major water holding issues in the hull.

I appreciate everyone posing up their experiences and processes, I have a feeling a lot of it may come in handy with this boat. We've been extermemly lucky with our boats 1994 Four Winns 238 Vista, 7 years of ownership and only needed a starter, alternator, and transom seal. 2002 Regal 2650 LSC, 7 years of ownership and only needed shift cable, gimble, u-joints & bellows. 2001 Formula 27 PC, 2 months ownership - hot water tank replacement, windlass replacement (still trying to find one under 7 1/4 inches to fit), and now the water tank leak. Shift cables need to be done and my starboard motor runs 15 degrees hotter than my port..... this one might be an adventure.

Ian, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
 
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