Cleaning corrosion spots from anodized aluminum windshield frame?

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
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Aug 16, 2003
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12,072
Anyone have an effective method to clean the spots off and keep them from returning?
 

Boomyal

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Aug 16, 2003
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12,072
Thanks Woodonglass, but that is a lot more aggressive than I need. This is just the clean up of corrosion spots on anodized aluminum windshield frames. They kind of look like they have chicken pox, with little crusty white spots on an otherwize decent surface.
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
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26,019
Have you tried 0000 steel wool? Seems to work fine on the trim on the Starcraft ....... just be gentle ;)
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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11,429
You might find this beneficial...Shining Aluminum
It's strange both mine and GT,s Photobucket video,s are not working .. I have 2 accounts and the first one is very hard to access ..

i guess if it's anodized Mothers polish will not work on the spots . I'm with Bob try the steel wool but use the the stainless type ...
 

Cap'nHandy

Seaman
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Aug 27, 2014
Messages
64
Eeek! I would vote NO on the steel wool! It will likely embed iron in the aluminum and add to corrosion and add rust stains. Same reason you never use steel wool in a stainless steel sink.

First thing I would try is Marvel Mystery Oil. yeah. for really. would not have believed it when I first heard it, but WOW. That sthuff works. Google it. Put some on a rag, wipe over, let sit a few minutes, then wipe off. buff a bit... Repeat if needed. Amazing. Depending on the anodizing, may be more or less effective. Sure wont hurt anything. It's the most gentle solution.

Fine scotchbright pad - and or - Bon Ami with a cloth - ( ground feldspar - hasn't scratched yet... ) should do it if you need more aggressive, but The anodized surface is very thin, and you may take off the dye later.

I am thinking after that, you going to get abrasive enough to remove the anodizing.

I forget the name of the wadding stuff in a can - I used that a few times to clean bare aluminum. Lots of work, but nice.

Blaine
 

Gator1996

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 29, 2011
Messages
228
Give Woody Wax a look, Makes the anodized stuff look new. Gets rid of the white funk too.
Warning: Application will need to be repeated and its pricey. But it works and a little goes a long way.

If you go to their site an contact them they'll send you a sample or two (pre-moistened sponges). One is more than enough to do a couple frames
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,429
Eeek! I would vote NO on the steel wool! It will likely embed iron in the aluminum and add to corrosion and add rust stains. Same reason you never use steel wool in a stainless steel sink.
That was the reason I suggested the stainless steel wool and not the reg .. ;)
 

Tail_Gunner

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Jan 13, 2006
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6,237
There's a product called oxalic acid you can buy It cheap or big money. Here's the scoop it will melt any oxidation going on but it will not prevent it forming.......DUH...fine a product called wood bleach it's full of it and will clean you hull with the gusto of a hound dog...Willamette scum will just melt away.
 

Cap'nHandy

Seaman
Joined
Aug 27, 2014
Messages
64
+1 on the Oxalic acid. ^^^

We buy oxalic acid for wood bleach, leather bleach, and other household cleaning uses. Read the warnings, it's relatively safe, does work wonderfully for many cleaning tasks, but like all things - stupid can hurt.

Just google it, and find it pure, bulk, and cheap. 2 lbs should last a while.

I found some phosphoric acid metal prep for ferrous or Al. at HD. Another "read and heed". Its pretty safe. Chemicals don't scare me, but growing up as a wanna be mad scientist, I respect the heck out of most of em. Singularly, some can make you injured very quickly , and mixed wrong make you dead just as quick.

Here's but one example - Dont' heat galvanized with a torch. DEAD if you get too much zinc oxide fumes. Flue like symptoms that can take weeks to recover if it does not kill you.

More common for us will be mixing acid into water - OK. Just go very slow.

Mixing water into acid - BAD! Kerpoof! Depending on the acid, can be almost instantaneous.

Water gets so hot it turns to steam, rapidly expands and vilolently sprays you with strong acid. Bye bye clothes, skin, and eyesight...

Same with Sodium Hydroxide. Used to mix a liter of 5N solution every so often. Put on lab coat and face shield. Start with 700ml Ice water. slowly add 200 Grams hydroxide while stirring. Do it all in deep stainless sink with water running so you can dilute or dump if it goes runaway... Add cold water to bring to 1L solution. Let cool, and bottle. You start with ice water, and if you add too fast, can end up with boiling. Its the main ingredient in many drain cleaners, aka lye.

Guys, just cause it never gotcha before, dont mean it cant or wont... 10+ years in the lab, and one day I had a mix go runaway. Scared the poop out of me, cause it goes from a bit too reactive to dangerous out of control in seconds. Please be safe to keep all your skin and eyes intact.

Long as your aware and follow good safety measures, it's all good. One moment of stupid can leave scars for life. Just like driving a car or boat.

Goodnight and cheers.

Blaine
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Well if oxalyic acid does the trick then this product should be good for the task... Wear rubber Gloves!!!;)
pACE3-1216395enh-z7.jpg
 

JaCrispy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2014
Messages
391
The spots will not come off with any of those ideas.

It's chemically damaged. The only way to remove them is to remove the anno and polish. You can remove the anodize with spray oven cleaner, since the frames are attached, mask off the glass and gelcoat. You can leave bare aluminum but you need to keep after it. Or, remove the frames and get them stripped and reanodized.

Not oxalic acid, but LYE will remove anno. To use lye you need to make a bath. You can buy it at the hardware store called Roebic crystal drain cleaner. just pour a little in a tub with water. After a few minutes you should see some bubbles and be able to wipe off the anno with a scotchbrite pad.

Here's some samples:

Original gold anno removed with oven cleaner
oldie1_blowup.jpg


then polished
IMG_5390.jpg


Oxalic acid bath and rusty parts
IMG_5440.jpg


After a few hours
IMG_5445.jpg
 
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