Tried to add this to an existing thread but getting "empty response" so starting a new one. A past thread was also deleted mysteriously. So..
McKee is similar in construction to whalers. No stringers, foam used as structural support. Have been in touch with Key McKee, the CEO of the original McKee company for tech support as well as a fellow who did a couple of McKee restorations from the THT web site, and using info from Continuous Wave forum. I find this site, however, has greater info and support for restorations in general. I plan to carry 4 people max on this 6 passenger boat in freshwater lakes and Florida intercoastal. I am not a speed demon and will use this for fishing and some cruising on nice days. It is 16' long and has a 78" beam.
Have the boat covered in clear plastic except when I work on it to try to evaporate the 120 extra pounds of water in the foam - only in some of the foam. Hull weight is about 1290 and the specs call for 1170. I have removed all hardware and re-drilled all screw holes in the deck in prep for reflling, and removed the centerboard which runs up the center section of the deck. The rear hole in the center tunnel is where the injected foam came out of the boat during manufacture - it is pumped in from the front - and I have opened this and hollowed it out and have some cloth in there to create a wicking action - hooking a 4" pvc pipe and muffin fan over that to get some vacuum and will vent that to the outside of the plastic "greenhouse" I have tented the boat in. When I opened this up as well as a site further forward, the top perhaps half inch of foam was wet but remaining 4 - 5" was perfectly dry and bright yellow in color. Have taken some of the foam I extracted and submerged it in water fr 2 days and when I took weight off it floated as well as it did initially which hopefully indicates that the closed cell structure is not compromised in the majority of this foam. I do NOT plan to cut any more areas for testing. Waterlogging was a major concern. While I was not happy with "some" water, this is not a show stopper.
Main culprit on this is transom, which I knew when I bought it. Seacast will be used to restore this. I have begun the hogging out work and more than half has been removed. The hefty glass is in good shape. The bad news is that the hard work will be getting to the rest of the wood in the lower transom. Using an electric chain saw and a variety of long drill bits. I have also gotten a couple of steel bars I have sharpened to clean it up. Wood is coming off he glass very readily in most spots. Will need to put braces on the transom to keep it flat during the pour but that is at least 2 weeks off - I need 8 gallons or 2 5 pound buckets of Seacast. They have been very helpful on the phone and this product is pricey but the support is worth it. They know this boat model and transom as well. I am figuring that the water that was soaking in this transom did not help the weight on the scales...
Planning to refill all holes with "PB", use fairing compound where needed - majority of the interior is in excellent shape with original gelcoat and very few spider web spaces - most near motor bolt hole on one side - and will prep, spray prime with Rustoleum marine primer then paint with Majic tractor paint. Then will flip it and do outside hull which has some ugly paint below waterline but no visible areas of patching or past damage. Still has original rub rails too.
So thanks to people who offered advice in past threads and I hope some of the forum issues are corrected.
McKee is similar in construction to whalers. No stringers, foam used as structural support. Have been in touch with Key McKee, the CEO of the original McKee company for tech support as well as a fellow who did a couple of McKee restorations from the THT web site, and using info from Continuous Wave forum. I find this site, however, has greater info and support for restorations in general. I plan to carry 4 people max on this 6 passenger boat in freshwater lakes and Florida intercoastal. I am not a speed demon and will use this for fishing and some cruising on nice days. It is 16' long and has a 78" beam.
Have the boat covered in clear plastic except when I work on it to try to evaporate the 120 extra pounds of water in the foam - only in some of the foam. Hull weight is about 1290 and the specs call for 1170. I have removed all hardware and re-drilled all screw holes in the deck in prep for reflling, and removed the centerboard which runs up the center section of the deck. The rear hole in the center tunnel is where the injected foam came out of the boat during manufacture - it is pumped in from the front - and I have opened this and hollowed it out and have some cloth in there to create a wicking action - hooking a 4" pvc pipe and muffin fan over that to get some vacuum and will vent that to the outside of the plastic "greenhouse" I have tented the boat in. When I opened this up as well as a site further forward, the top perhaps half inch of foam was wet but remaining 4 - 5" was perfectly dry and bright yellow in color. Have taken some of the foam I extracted and submerged it in water fr 2 days and when I took weight off it floated as well as it did initially which hopefully indicates that the closed cell structure is not compromised in the majority of this foam. I do NOT plan to cut any more areas for testing. Waterlogging was a major concern. While I was not happy with "some" water, this is not a show stopper.
Main culprit on this is transom, which I knew when I bought it. Seacast will be used to restore this. I have begun the hogging out work and more than half has been removed. The hefty glass is in good shape. The bad news is that the hard work will be getting to the rest of the wood in the lower transom. Using an electric chain saw and a variety of long drill bits. I have also gotten a couple of steel bars I have sharpened to clean it up. Wood is coming off he glass very readily in most spots. Will need to put braces on the transom to keep it flat during the pour but that is at least 2 weeks off - I need 8 gallons or 2 5 pound buckets of Seacast. They have been very helpful on the phone and this product is pricey but the support is worth it. They know this boat model and transom as well. I am figuring that the water that was soaking in this transom did not help the weight on the scales...
Planning to refill all holes with "PB", use fairing compound where needed - majority of the interior is in excellent shape with original gelcoat and very few spider web spaces - most near motor bolt hole on one side - and will prep, spray prime with Rustoleum marine primer then paint with Majic tractor paint. Then will flip it and do outside hull which has some ugly paint below waterline but no visible areas of patching or past damage. Still has original rub rails too.
So thanks to people who offered advice in past threads and I hope some of the forum issues are corrected.