removing the back to back box seats and entire deck? 1989 maxum 2000xr

sportrider

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Jun 4, 2014
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I decided to end the season a little early and start the resto on the deck. I replaced the deck in the bow at the beginning of the season but didn't want to down the boat for long. now Im pulling everything out and doing it the "right" way. the first real issue I'm having s removing the seat boxes. they're glassed in to the deck but the glass carries up the sides of the hull. I'm curious to how others have cut them out?
 

Woodonglass

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Long Flexible Blade on a Sawzall or a multiTool seems to be the tools of choice here on the forum!;)
 

Rickmerrill

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Mar 13, 2014
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If it's what I'm picturing, hint, just cut the glass in the corner all the way around with your weapon of choice. The glass up the side just becomes part of the hull. If it is still attached check inside for more tabbing.
 

sportrider

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Jun 4, 2014
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ok cool deal, thanks for confirming what I thought. I have the deck ripped out everywhere else but at the back to back seats. I'd of had out last night but I didn't want to upset my neighbors with me out cutting away at 11:00 at night
 

sportrider

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I have the seats out the deck out I found some rotten stringers that I cut out. I checked the transom it's still good it seems the previous owner had the boat parked bow down. I have two questions, is the flotation foam necessary and can you section stringers?
 

Rickmerrill

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Foam - is required of manufacturers for flotation. Punch a hole in the hull and it can end up on the bottom fast. It also adds some stiffening to the hull and deck and is a structural element in some designs. Yes you can sister in new stringers multiple examples on iboats just do a search.
 

Woodonglass

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What did you do to ensure the transom is good? Did you core sample it? Did you core sample the stringers? Got any Pics?
 

sportrider

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here's a picture, the stringers where rotted out at the bulkhead in front of the fuel tank which was rotten also. I skinned some of the fiberglass off the stringers until I found solid wood. the wood seems solid towards the transom, but I'm going to do core samples next time I work on it just to be sure. I've removed the bilge plug fitting and the wood is solid around that. when I installed the transducer the transom was solid there as well. the same when I installed fishing rod holders. I guess I better drill some spots acrossed it just to be sure. the factory deck was 1/2 ply, I plan on using 3/4" when I re do it, using the extras for the new bulkheads.
 

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sportrider

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Jun 4, 2014
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ok I've decided I'm going to just replace the entire stringers and kickers as well as all the bulkheads. I have the boat so stripped anyways I think at this point it would just be easier to do it all and fully glass everything in the try and section it piece by piece. the factory stringers are 1 x 6's I was considering using 2x6s instead. any thoughts on this?
 

sportrider

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I've made (finally) some progress. got the stringers and bulkheads PL'd in. I'm slowly getting everything needed together. anyone have a budget supplier for flotation foam? I figure I'm going to need 2 gallons of foam to replace what was removed. the cheapest I've found it was $95.00 per gallon.
 

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Rickmerrill

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Aeromarineproducts has a 2 gallon kit for $95 and USComposits has a 16 pound kit that yields 8cf for $67.
 
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