Rehab SportCraft 222 1983 deep V hull cuddy walkaround

kcassells

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Check this out...



Thanks Mike. Good info video. I've seen it and there is some good info. In addition he has@ 4 more vids in regards to different materials and application tech.
Good read! Highly recommend it too. I shot this info off earlier to Mikeopsycho thread.
 

zool

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Looking good Kevin! :encouragement: My V-berth walls and ceiling have a low nap carpeting adhered on them which works fine for me. I don't know if this'd be an option for you, but it might be easier to install than headliner material given all the lumps and bumps you have to cover up. Just a thought........

That product is called hull liner, its applied over foam with spray adhesive.....that's what is currently in mine, with thick foam on the ceiling. works out fine and comes in many colors, its just not as "classy" as the naugasoft..
 

kcassells

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That product is called hull liner, its applied over foam with spray adhesive.....that's what is currently in mine, with thick foam on the ceiling. works out fine and comes in many colors, its just not as "classy" as the naugasoft..


Zool,
I looked into the naugasoft a little bit. Lots of good ratings like rubs, small fire etc. but no foam backing and no perforations. So what are the pros and cons in regards to install regarding my ceiling?. As you saw my ceiling is way convoluted and I was anticipating the foam backer to help ease the transitions. Are you suggesting to directly apply the material to the ceiling as is or make mods to the indentations with foam fillers...Just wondering.
Anyone can chime in. Thanks!
 

proshadetree

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Foam backing helps to hide surface imperfections and allows a bit of bump safety. Non foam backed will sometimes let adhesive bleed through and telegraphs exactly what is under it, like wires or waves.
 

Woodonglass

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IMHO you could use any Marine Vinyl and spray glue Scrim foam to the back and get the job done.
 

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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Zool,
I looked into the naugasoft a little bit. Lots of good ratings like rubs, small fire etc. but no foam backing and no perforations. So what are the pros and cons in regards to install regarding my ceiling?. As you saw my ceiling is way convoluted and I was anticipating the foam backer to help ease the transitions. Are you suggesting to directly apply the material to the ceiling as is or make mods to the indentations with foam fillers...Just wondering.
Anyone can chime in. Thanks!

Ideally, you want to use some type of semi rigid board, then a 1/4 " soft foam layer, then the NaugaSoft. Each goes on with 3m spray glue or equivalent.

fiberboard like this, or even 1/4 inch would work

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...118-in-x-23-75-in-x-47-75-in-796762/202266042

I would ease out some of the ceiling transitions with 3/8 ply strips used as furring strips, epoxied to the ceiling, making a grid or rails so to speak. If you make some like 6" wide, you can cut holes for shallow recessed halogen lights. Get some Velcro tape and attach to the furring strips and the back of the NS boards, and they can be justbe put up. You want to quadrant off the flattest areas, and make multiple panels, and butt them snug together.

On the vertical walls, around the windows, you can get some hull liner in a complimentary color (you might like magenta ;)), and glue it over some 1/2" foam glued to the inner cabin walls....the combination make a factory look, and saves some coin on the NS.

Basically, you make cardboard templates, transfer to fiberboard and foam, and cut them out.

If u choose to skip the naugasoft, and do the ceiling in hull liner too, just fill in the cavities with close cell foam cut to contour and glued up, then 1" soft foam over the ceiling, then the hull liner.
 

kcassells

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Ok I got the process now. Thank you Mike, Larry and Pro. Back to materials search and pricing.
Cool Beans!
 

kcassells

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Guys,
Thanks for all the great info. Gonna put it on hold for now till Spring and start to work on the rear of the boat. Lots to do!
 

kcassells

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Well grinder pooped out again, that makes # 3, picked up some more ppe and propane. This stuff grinding the glue backed foam and glass on the walls and ceiling of the berth/cuddy is messy stuff. Went with the grinder and a 60 pad. I usually save all my pads until they gum up, then I toss em. So the 60 is really now a 100. Just wanted to get this area out of the way and off my back. Getting prepped for early spring header material finish. Now I can move back onto structural.












 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Over head grinding looks like no fun at all ... I know your glad ya got that over with .. :painkiller: :twitch:
Nice work !
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Thanks Rick and Sam,
Yup glad it's over in that area at least. Literally on my back on that board/bulkhead doing under the berth gunnels with the grinder. Feel it in the upper shoulder areas today for sure. Now where did I put that aspirin?
Go back out later today, vacuum, clean and get back to some wood.
 

jc55

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Nov 3, 2006
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Keep up the good work KC. You're a better man than I. I'd paint it all white and be done with it! :)
 

nurseman

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You might try taking an air hose and blowing out your grinder every so often while you are grinding. It will help to extend the life of your tool.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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You might try taking an air hose and blowing out your grinder every so often while you are grinding. It will help to extend the life of your tool.

Yup, and I rubber band some Scotch Brite pads over my vent openings to act like filters too!!! They work really well.;)
 
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