1983 Invader Floor Repair Support Needed

PitaBoat22

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 20, 2009
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148
I have a 1983 Invader I/O that has been in my family since being purchased new….in 1983. I have started to notice that the floor is quite soft (especially when wet) on both sides of the ski storage box and between the engine compartment cover and the ski storage box. The remainder of the floor seems to be quite solid. I have also noticed the wood on the left side of the engine compartment floor has rotted - while the wood on the right side appears solid. I have provided some pictures here of the places that are soft when stepped on and the rotten wood on the left side of the engine compartment.

I have read a few posts regarding the process of replacing the flooring, the stingers and the transom and it sounds like the difficulty level of the work is not terribly high - its just that its time-consuming work. I do some woodworking myself and am pretty much a DIY-er around my house and yard, so I think this is something I could tackle. My question is this - is replacing only the portion of the flooring that is rotten an advisable option - or would it be best to replace the entire floor, and then also replace the stingers & transom if indicated? Any/all advice is welcomed. And if there is anyone out there who has gone through this process with a 1980's Invader I/O, I would love to hear from you.

I don't plan on starting this work until the fall and will post pics and the description of my progress as I go.
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 13, 2014
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686
Choice number two. Pull the entire floor so you have complete access for inspection. If you already know the stern and ski locker is wet or rotting that's already 2/3's of you flooring that needs to come me up. One exception, if you have something in the bow that makes it extremely difficult to access AND you are sure the rot has stopped further back in the floor, stringers and bulkheads you might consider sistering in the new stringers to the old and patching in the floor (aka deck or sole).
 

PitaBoat22

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Jun 20, 2009
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No Title

Thank you. Those are useful comments. I am trying to post pics but the site seems to be having difficulty.
 

Rickmerrill

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Since the "upgrade" the best way is to get a free photobucket account, upload there, copy the IMG link and then paste that link directly into the text of your post.
 
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jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
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At 31 yrs. old your boat is about 11 yrs. past due for a resto, remove and replace anything made of wood. If you have rot in a specific area, the other areas probably aren't far behind.

When you restore a boat, you want everything to be the same age, not 31 yr. old plywood and stringers on one side and brand new on the other.

Replace your transom too while you're at it, everything should be new! It'll be well worth the effort while you have everything torn down.
 

PitaBoat22

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Jun 20, 2009
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Here are the current pics. I haven't started anything yet at this point……probably not until Sept.
 

PitaBoat22

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Jun 20, 2009
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Quick update. Have been reading A LOT and watching many YouTube videos....primarily the iboats threads by mroz and pridekit and the YouTube videos by FriscoJarretts. Obviously a lot to learn. Looking to start the process as early as Thursday, August 28th. Need to have everything done by end of June 2015. I won't be able to pull the engine (Volvo aq125a) ... hopefully that won't serve as a significant barrier to getting the work done. Really hoping the transom is still solid. I have also been using this time to continually reflect on whether to commit to this or to just sell the boat. Clearly this is a personal decision. Here are some of the factors that I have been including in my decision process: (1) Cost - obviously this is a major "light switch". No money - no project. I think I can absorb the expense associated with this project. Looking to keep it around $1500. (2) Place to do work - another key factor. I would rather not take up my garage space for several months. So, I considered other options such as a rental unit. In the end, I bought a used portable car port through Craigslist for $100 and have placed it on my property. I think this will work well. (3) Is the investment of time and money worth it? - This is not a high-performance boat. I could probably get around $1000-$1500 for the boat/trailer combo. I have invested the following over the last couple of years: new gas tank, new ignition coil, new electronic ignition, new tires/wheels on trailer, new winch on trailer and new stand on trailer. Renewed the wooden ski storage cover. This is a boat that my parents purchased new in 1983 when I was a teenager. Spent a lot of time on the boat - lots of memories - and have been creating new memories with my own kids. Would be great to pass along to my own kids. Understood that memories could be made with a different boat....or some other recreational equipment. My friends say "maybe you should just sell it and move on". (4) Do I have the skills necessary to do the work? I am quite handy. Built storage shed from own plans (and it's still standing in excellent condition after 8 years). Installed stone backsplash in kitchen after removing all original tile and drywall. Installed automatic sprinkler system. Completed various other wood-working projects. I think I will be able to do the work - especially given ALL of the incredible support provided through these forums. To be honest, I have gone back and forth. At this point, I am going to move forward given: (a) I can absorb the cost (b) I have a place to do the work - and the tools (c) I should be able to do the work (d) Probably wouldn't get much for the boat given the soft deck (e) Kids are still young (10 & 14) and love hanging out on the boat....and there is that emotional attachmen
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Uhhhmmm, I'm a bit confused. I'm still not quite sure what you're proposing to do to the boat. IF the deck is soft then tear it out first. You'll then be able to ascertain the condition of everything else structural about the boat and make a much better informed decision on how and if you want to proceed. Core sampling the stringers, bulkheads, motor mounts and transom will be your best method to determine their condition. If the motor mounts and transom are compromised, then the motor will need to be removed. If they are in fact in good condition as well as the stringers and bulkeads and all thats needed is a new deck, you sir are a very lucky man!!!:D Keep us posted as to what exactly your plans are and keep posting pics. The preferred method is to copy and paste the IMG Code from photobucket directly into your thread like this...
 

PitaBoat22

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 20, 2009
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Thank you, Woodonglass. You make a very good point and my plan has been to follow to a tee exactly what you have spelled out....I just didn't actually write it out . I am going into this with the assumption that I will have to replace the deck, the stringers, the bulkheads and the motor mounts (the motor mounts are actually a given - I can already tell). Hopefully the transom is in good shape. Going into it under this set of assumptions has been necessary from my perspective as I would rather be pleasantly surprised by having to do & spend less than regretably disappointed by having to do & spend more. Make sense?

I will start posting pics and updates re: my findings as I go. May even look at posting some vids to YouTube.

Thanks for the recommendation re: how to post pictures. Just learning the ropes on this stuff.
 

PitaBoat22

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Jun 20, 2009
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Ok, I have officially started getting into this. I only had about an hour this evening, so I have only removed the seats and the backrests for both of the rear seats. Upon removing the seats, I found what mroz mentioned in his thread…..blocks of foam under the seats. These must serve as supports for the seats - especially when they are folded down - so they will need to be put back in place when I'm done…or something else will need to take their place and serve the same function. QUESTION - Can anyone tell me how these things are attached to the floor? They are definitely solid in place and look to be mounted on a pieces of wood that sits above the actual floor. BTW, those pieces of wood look to have rot at least in some places. If they are easy to remove so as they can be reused, then I'd like to do that - but I'm not sure that easy-removal is an option here. Any help would be great. I've provided a couple of pics here.




Also, I've started by video diary of this project. Please grant me tons of leeway here as I am definitely a novice with this type of boat repair and with making a video diary. You can follow my video diary at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNfvN-HYTGB0AlkTszgdXGg
 

Woodonglass

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NIce first Video! I'm betting the foam is glued to the Plywood pad which in turn is glassed to the deck.
 

PitaBoat22

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Jun 20, 2009
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New video update is posted (see link below). Carpet removed and extensive rot noted involving plywood deck and at least one bulkhead. Entire deck will need to be replaced and evidence is growing that all stringers and bulkheads will require replacement as well. More work on deck for tomorrow.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNf...GB0AlkTszgdXGg
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 13, 2014
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Really enjoyed the two videos, nice job. Since you already know the engine mounts are bad you will want to pull the engine. Don't worry about it though that will be easy. Up in the front, if you have to cut the cap I don't see a good place. The only thing I can think of is to cover the cut/repair with some vynal stapled and padded to some plywood. But I'm getting ahead a little, it's time to see how it looks below.
 

PitaBoat22

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Jun 20, 2009
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Thanks Rickmerill. The engine isn't attached / mounted to anything that involves the deck in any way....at least not that I can see. I will look again tomorrow and post some pics, but I am not sure that the engine has to be pulled.
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 13, 2014
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686
I was responding to the statement in post 11 where you said the engine mounts were a given and assumed that meant you already knew they were bad. On most boats it's going to be quicker to remove the engine if you have to replace the mounts.
 

Woodonglass

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Once you ascertain where your stringers are and the thickness of your decking material, the best way to cut the deck is with a circular saw set to the exact depth of the deck and then cut around the perimeter using the narrow side of the saw next to the sides of the hull. Then cut some kerfs across the width of the deck and then use some prybars/chisels to start the demolition/removal process. Make sure to wear goggles/masks and gloves. It gets nasty in a hurry. I also agree that since you have a stern drive motor removal in your case will prolly not be required unless you discover later on that your transom has been compromised.
 
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PitaBoat22

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Thank you for the help. Sorry for the confusion about the motor mounts, Rickmerrill.....that's my inexperience shining through in all of its glory. I will still post some pics today to see if you can help me understand the purpose of the pieces I'm talking about because they may not even be necessary. Thanks, Woodenglass.....you knew the precise question that was going through my mind last night.
 

PitaBoat22

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Jun 20, 2009
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Here a few pictures of what look to be fiberglass-covered 2x6s on either side of the engine compartment. Nothing is attached to these normally - no seats, no engine cover, etc - so I'm not really sure of their purpose. Any ideas?
 
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