1959 Lone Star El Dorado "Project Texas Tornado" - Winner 2016 Resto SOTY Award

[Luke000]

Hey Luke Happy New Year and welcome back i was just asking about you last week, My boat has been going slow also but yours is looking great !!!
I also did not post on here for a while so i started a new thread (1959 lone star el dorado part 2)... I do have a question for you since you are back.LOL
on the first page of pics when you got the boat i saw you still had the cable steering on your boat . I am tring to figure out where the last pulley was mounted on the boat... was it on the transom side bracket ? do you remember ? any help or thoughts on this ??

Thanks again,,,,, Glad you are back !!

I just looked at your new thread, you are so lucky to have a great place to work on your boat! I am in the process of putting together a new shop but it wont be until the fall at the earliest. As to your question, on mine the pulley was mounted on the transom itself on the aluminum cap, right next to the point that the spring was mounted. I had to go back and blow up one of my pictures to figure it out, I think that was the very first thing out of the boat once I got it clean as I was sure I didn't want to use it, just go to a teleflex system for my 70HP, especially since the original steering wheel will mount on the teleflex helms!

Look forward to seeing your progress!

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[Luke000]

Welcome back to the fold Luke. On the paint does SW make poly alkyd enamel and primers?

Yes they do! they have way more types of paint than I can even wrap my head around.
These are two top coat paints that I found that look like they might be good options: [h=1]Industrial Urethane Alkyd:
http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26063:product-6802

SeaGuard 1000 Marine Alkyd Enamel
http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26490%3aproduct-6936​

And this is a primer I saw, but not sure how well it works over paint or aluminum...
http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-25942:product-6765[/h]

 

[Watermann]

Perfect then, you'll have to get some self etching primer for the bare AL but it doesn't have to be SW. I like using the rusto SE, then alkyd primer over the whole boat and finish with your top coats of enamel.

 

[Luke000]

Perfect then, you'll have to get some self etching primer for the bare AL but it doesn't have to be SW. I like using the rusto SE, then alkyd primer over the whole boat and finish with your top coats of enamel.

Awesome! That sounds like it is exactly what I am looking for! I was hoping to just prep the boat and hit the bare aluminum spots wit SE primer and not have to strip all the remaining paint off, especially if it has lasted this long without flaking off , it should be a good surface to start with. I can find some good Zinc Chromate primer for the bare spots to.

The next thing I want to look into is how I am going to apply the paint. I am most likely going to either use the roll and tip method or spray it on with an HVLP. I don't have any HVLP gear yet but if I decide to go that route I would go out and buy some. My compressor is only good to 6.5CFM @40 and one of the spray guns I looked at uses 15. The shop where I am working on my boat has a compressor that can run a few of those guns that I could use but I would be spraying in a dirt lot that sees some light traffic. The other HVLP system I saw is this kit from HF and I would not need a compressor. http://www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-kit-44677.html again, i'm not sure where I would spray it, but the dirt lot is a strong possibility.

 

[Woodonglass]

Those SW paints you've listed are ALL contractor paints and unless you have a License don't think you'll be allowed to purchase them retail. Also the HF Spray unit you've listed will not do the job on your boat. It's great for shooting light liquids like solvents and low viscous clear coats etc. Not for primers and color coats. You'll need a minimum of a 30 gallon compressor and standard HVLP spray gun.

 

[Luke000]

Those SW paints you've listed are ALL contractor paints and unless you have a License don't think you'll be allowed to purchase them retail. Also the HF Spray unit you've listed will not do the job on your boat. It's great for shooting light liquids like solvents and low viscous clear coats etc. Not for primers and color coats. You'll need a minimum of a 30 gallon compressor and standard HVLP spray gun.

I do have an industrial partner account through work/school that will allow me to purchase the paints (and give me a nice discount) Plus my manager is the brother in law to the manager of a local SW location. The HF spray system is out then and ill either be looking to spray it with a standard HVLP gun or roll and tip it! Thanks for the input! The big daunting task of painting the boat is looking a lot more reasonable now.

 

[Woodonglass]

That's great. Do they make a hardener for the Alkyd enamel? If not you can use any other brand with it. I'd really advise you to use the hardener. It will make the paint Soooo much better and reduce the cure time as well as enhance the gloss.

 

[Watermann]

+1 on the catalyst hardener, it's a bit expensive but well worth it.

 

[Luke000]

I do not think SW has a hardener specifically for their paints, is there a brand of hardener that anyone here prefers over another?

 

[Woodonglass]

I use the Majic Tractor Paint Hardener from Tractor supply but...any Acrylic Enamel Hardener will work.

 

[nurseman]

^^^ +1 on that.

 

[Luke000]

Thank you! Ill be sure to order up enough hardener when I get the paint! Besides the hardeners toxicity, are there any downsides to using it?

 

[Luke000]

I finished working on the Scott Atwater outboard! Should look real nice on the boat!

Check it out here!
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...-brands/10095136-1949-scott-atwater-493-7-5hp

 

[Watermann]

Wow the old smoker looks super! Nice work Luke :thumb:

 

[Corjen1]

Looks great Luke!!

 

[Tnstratofam]

Very nice! :thumb:

 

[Luke000]

Another update! I am on a roll lol. Turns out I knew someone who was in the upholstery business (grandmas friend) and when I went to her she offered me a price to make my covers that I could not refuse! Plus she had some of the exact materials I was after leftover from another project she had (metallic silver piping and the white sunbrealla) The only material she had to order in was the grey inner pieces. She had the seats for a couple months and I got them back yesterday and could not be happier with how they turned out! The next step is to just assemble the seats, that part I am going to take on myself. I need to decide what to do about the filling, either stick with what is there, use what is there and add some new material to it to give it a little more fluff, or go to a foam factory and have them cut some brand new foam for the seats. I am on a budget so I would like to save some money where possible but am willing to do what it takes to make the seats right. What do you think I should look into?
















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[Woodonglass]

Craigslist "Donor Couch". It's what I used for my boat. People throw couches away ALL the time. 6" foam cushions. Electric Carving knife ($12 bucks @ walmart) makes it easy to carve the foam into any shape you need. It IS a bit Less Firm than your original foam but If you over stuff the seat and then stretch the vinyl down and staple it will help firm it up. Grand Ma's Friend has some SERIOUS upholstery skills!!!!

 

[jbcurt00]

Yes she does ^^^

Seat vinyl looks great

 

[Watermann]

Yeah that's some fine work there :thumb:

Furniture grade foam brand new at Home Depot is a bit spendy but at least you won't have any dog puke stains on it. :lol: