How bad did I screw up?

Pat7762

Recruit
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
3
I am currently replacing my transom in my 1990 Stingray 17 foot boat I cut out new transom wood and I thought I could use 5200 to attach it to the fiberglass. I spoke with a boat repair place today and he said I need to peel it off and fiberglass it on. Which means I pretty much have to start over. Do you guys see any long-term problems by doing what I've done?
 

kjsAZ

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 15, 2012
Messages
433
yes, 5200 is a flexible material and I assume that you want to keep your engine/drive for a while longer. You have to seat it with PB (mixture of resin and fumed Silica and eventually some glass fibres).
Before you install it you have to soak it with resin for waterproofing too.
There are several threads currently running which will show you what you have to do.
 
Last edited:

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,871
IF you've used the 5200 as the adhesive to install the transom plywood against the fiberglass transom skin AND took measures to seal the plywood 1st (poly resin & CSM would be ideal) then although it's not perfect, it might be OK.

The 5200 is a tenacious adhesive, IF you buttered the back of the sealed transom plywood w/ a nice even coat of 100% coverage w/ 5200, AND ensured good contact w/ the transom skin (clamps & etc), AND can make good fillets along the perimeter of the plywood AND tab the front of the transom to the hull sides & bottom, you might be just fine.

Skip any of that those IF's and AND's and you really should consider doing over now, 'cause you'll likely be doing it again soon.............
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
You should read and study the restoration forum before proceeding further with your resto/repairs.

Even though 5200 is some stout and gnarly stuff when fully cured, I wouldn't want it bonding my transom core to my hull. You can roll the dice and glass in the inside of the transom and see how long the 5200 bond lasts... or you can go back to square 1.

If it hasn't been long enough for the 5200 to cure, I'd rip out the wood core and do it right. If the 5200 has cured and you love your boat and want to do right by her, you should fight the wood core out and do it right. If you're just going to use it for a few years and pawn it off on some unsuspecting nimrod, leave it as is. He'll probably just use it on some small electric motor only lakes with his grand children aboard and there won't be anything to really worry about after he smears some boiled linseed oil on it.
 
Last edited:

Pat7762

Recruit
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
3
I'm not normally a dumbass, I have no idea why I did that, a combination of beer and getting excited that I was actually getting some were. I will see if I can pry it off slowly but I don't see it happening. Thanks for the replies and not beating me up to bad.
 

500dollar744ti

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2012
Messages
691
Post some pictures of what you are dealing with, it helps us to get an idea how we can help you.
 
Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
2,598
Pat, go SLOWLY, read through some repair threads, and ask questions. Dedicate yourself to doing these repairs properly, you're dealing with structural areas of your hull that you absolutely don't want to fail.
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
686
Well, if it's not fast cure you have less than seven days. Wounds are licked get to it! I to will be surprised if you can pry it off but you already know how to remove a transom. You're no dumbass but it's just not right to implicate beer for this! Blame your wife, wait you can't be married because you said you're not normally a dumbass. BadaBing!
 
Last edited:

Pat7762

Recruit
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
3
Hey everyone, just a quick update. Everything turn out pretty good, no stress fractures on the rear transom fiberglass. I use the boat about every weekend. Iam happy with it.
 
Top