1988 Maxum redsign and restore project

snowman246

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 13, 2015
Messages
193
Honestly, I was on the lake for the first launch and the water was white capping about 18" high. I sat back there the whole time casting. It's not bad at all.
 

jopes

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Messages
288
For those that have removed the transom. Did the OEM use resin or glues to hold it between the wood and the fiberglass transom. Or once you cut around the out side it fell out?

Any tips on cutting that part off the rear of the boat?
 

wilkboater

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Messages
95
Mine was attached to the outer skin of the boat really well, with some sort of really coarse, hairy glass. The wet part near the bottom came off pretty easily, I drove a 3" wide chisel behind it and popped it off in large pieces. The rest of it fought me, I cut squares in it with a circular saw, chiseled chunks off, and ground the remainder. As for the front glass and gel coat, I cut a line around it with a masonry blade in a 4 1/2" angle grinder, drove a chisel behind it and pried it off. The front of transom (gel coat and glass) came off in two big pieces. My transom looks just like yours. Hope for it to be really rotten....it's easier to get off. :)
 

jopes

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Messages
288
Mine was attached to the outer skin of the boat really well, with some sort of really coarse, hairy glass. The wet part near the bottom came off pretty easily, I drove a 3" wide chisel behind it and popped it off in large pieces. The rest of it fought me, I cut squares in it with a circular saw, chiseled chunks off, and ground the remainder. As for the front glass and gel coat, I cut a line around it with a masonry blade in a 4 1/2" angle grinder, drove a chisel behind it and pried it off. The front of transom (gel coat and glass) came off in two big pieces. My transom looks just like yours. Hope for it to be really rotten....it's easier to get off. :)


Awesome. Sounds like a blast. Thanks for the ideas.
 

jopes

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Messages
288
This Wyoming weather has has tossed a wrench into things. Didn't have a cover on it and it filled with snow. Got the snow out and got snow the next 2 days.

Worked on it yesterday and today some. Got all the rough stuff sanded down up front and got the rear cut up and most of the floor sanded down. Still need to remove some gel coat and scuff the rest of the hull where I will be laying glass down. The Transom will be cut out next week and hopefully the rest of the inside will be completed, or near completed and ready for reassembly.

Got materials showing up this week to start putting it back together. Just need to wait till it warms up a little more since were still barely hitting 50 degrees.

Motor mounts were soaked with water and the runners towards the rear were also soaked and started rotting but not too bad yet. Be interesting to see how the transom is since it looked pretty sofa at the bottom when I pushed a screw driver in it.
 

jopes

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Messages
288
Found this in another thread on transom thickness. I measured mine before removing it. 1-7/8" thick. This PDF says 2-2-1/4" thick is what Merc requires.

Should I increase the thickness to met this or does the 305/350's need more than the 3.0's?

https://mercurymarine-gsdesign1.net...4f20-a798-e93ec4018ded/30lalpha_1996-2001.pdf



The lower 1/4-1/3 of the transom was rotted out. I'm glad I decided to pull it and redo that as well.
 

jopes

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Messages
288
Anyone know how thick each layer of 1708 will approximately be?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Maybe just a bit shy of 1/8". Your transom MUST be 2" to 2 1/4" Do not differentiate from that.
 

jopes

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Messages
288
Maybe just a bit shy of 1/8". Your transom MUST be 2" to 2 1/4" Do not differentiate from that.

Thank you. Interesting how the OEM only made it 1-7/8" thick, I will be increasing the thickness to the spec.
 

jopes

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Messages
288
Finished the sanding and grinding. I hope to never see another grinder again in my life time. That was by far the hardest part of the whole job so far. I have the inside vacuumed out. Tomorrow I am going to go out and take a few measurements because I want to bring the floor up 1-2 inches to be flat all the way across instead of having the last 4 inches of the floor by the gun wells a little higher.





I am looking to use these Perko latches up front so I can lock my tackle up in the boat. It says 3/4" max, so I will not be able to use 3/4 " plywood. I would compromise with 5/8 but my local lumber yard doesn't have that in marine or exterior grades unless you want CDX. I will see if I can find it some place a few hundred miles from me, but choices are slim.

If I do get 5/8" and put 1.5oz csm on it, what is the average thickness per layer?

http://www.iboats.com/Perko-T-Handl...03633752--session_id.527910264--view_id.22068
 

jopes

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Messages
288
Cut 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood for the transom. Glued them and held it together with stainless wood screws. Then traced out the hole for the gimble housing to pass through. Mixed up some thinned resin and painted the plywood so it would soak in. Then made some thickened resin to stick the transom to the boat hull. Made some 2x4 clamps to put a ton of pressure on the 2 pieces so they stick together. It will sit with the clamps on till Sunday or Monday when I have my next set of days off. I hope to get a bunch done next week because it's going to be in the 70's.

 
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