1974 Lo 14 ft Restore

Tarheelsportsman

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
35
This is the used Mercury 20 hp I bought today I plan on using on this boat.
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jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
If you choose to pour the foam under the deck after it's glassed/tabbed in without a center string, you will want to put weight on the middle of the deck to keep the foam from bowing the middle of the deck up and creating a "hump" in your deck.

Expanding foam is pretty strong stuff and will push anything that isn't secured up or side ways. You want the foam to push itself to the sides of your boat instead of lifting the deck.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAIY0I5GGw4
 

friderday

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Messages
463
I don't think a center stringer is necessarily a mistake....wog just pointing out that it may not be necessary based on the original design of the boat. And why put the extra work/weight into it if you as the owner don't feel it necessary. Personally, my son has accused me of over-building before("just get it done, mom!") & maybe it's a woman thing (more is better), but it would make me feel better to reinforce the deck with a keel stringer. This might have something to do with the fact that I haven't been a size 7 since.....birth!. In doing so, I don't think I would be jeopardizing any performance or integrity issues that would cause me grave concern. At this point, there are only personal choices to how we restore our boats. I don't think you can miss on this one. Again....love, love, love this boat. And don't even get me started on the engine. I picked up a sweet 25hp Merc a few months back...kind of adds to the old-timer look. Easy to work on too!
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Yup ^^^ Not a mistake just not necessary for your particular boat. Again that's just MY OPINION. You need to do what makes sense to you. Your foam installation won't cause you any problems as long as you drill 4-5, 3" relief holes in the deck after it's tabbed securely to the hull and IF, BIG IF, you do your calculations correctly for the amount of foam needed for the cubic feet of space. Based on your pics you won't need much, and when the foam expands as long as there is a place for the air to escape during the expansion process there won't be a danger of lifting the deck or pushing out on the hull. Now...IF you miscalculate the amount needed and it fills the holes and continues to expand a LOT with no where for the foam and air to go....Well that's a BIG PROBLEM!!! You MUST KNOW the cubic feet and do the calculations properly. Temps, Humidity etc all come in to play. It's not brain surgery but you do need to take your time and put some thought and effort into it to ensure a successful pour so that the entire area gets full of foam and supports the deck and hull properly. You'll be fine as long as you follow the directions and put some thought into it. If you need help when it comes time just ask.Friscoboater has an excellent video on how to foam your boat. You might want to go on you tube and take a look.;)
 
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Tarheelsportsman

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
35
Checked out Friscoboater's vid, excellent info on the foam, very detailed. I plan on getting back to work on the rest of the demolition and start on the transom this weekend. I bought some Titebond III today and got a sheet of 3/4 Marine Grade Plywood , so things are coming along slowly but surely .
 

Tarheelsportsman

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
35
Well thankfully I was able to get back on my project today, I am completing demo and cutting out the old transom. I am wondering whats the best way to remove the drain ? Here are inside and outside pics.
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Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Take a chisel and chisel the lip into the perimeter on one side of the tube. Then tap it out the other side. You can make your own Flaring Tool when it's time to replace the tube. Here's a graphic explaining how...
 
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