Stringer Removal

dillonheath08

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Jun 6, 2014
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Just wondering if anyone would give me some advice on removing stringers. I have them cut flush to the hull but they are fitted into a groove that goes down into the hull. I would like to get em out without the possibility of cutting through the hull on the bottom side
 

Axkiker

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Nov 18, 2013
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Mine were the exact same way. I will say that a sawzall is your friend along with a grinder and 4 inch high speed cut off disk. Use the saw to get them as close as possible then the cut off wheel to get it even closer. If you have wood that is stuck in that slot between the remaining glass just cut through the glass on both sides then see if you can remove the glass then pry out the wood.

Lastly you get to have the privilege of grinding the remaining fiberglass down to the hull.

Welcome to the misery my friend.
 

tpenfield

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A little more info and maybe a few photos would help with replies. Generally, if you can get a sawz-all to cut the base of the stringer and it's tabbing and run the blade along the hull, then you can make as nearly a clean cut as possible and avoid going into the hull itself. For areas that did not come as close to the hull as they could have, you can always make a second pass with the saw blade.
 

jigngrub

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Carefully remove the wood that's left in the groove with a wood chisel, it'll be a little time consuming at the beginning but once you get the hang of it it'll go quicker.
 

sphelps

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I did it with a chainsaw . And it worked perfectly . Go slow and when you hit glass it has a complete different feel and sound to it so you know when to stop ..
 

Woodonglass

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Yup this ^^^ or if you're not brave enuf or don't have a chain saw then chisel out a section to discover the depth and then use a circular saw and set the depth of the blade about 1/16" less than the depth required and cut multiple kerfs down the channel. It will then be quite easy to remove with a chisel.:joyous:
 
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dillonheath08

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Jun 6, 2014
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Thanks so much for the replies. I don't think I am quite ready to bring out the chainsaw. Haha. I am going to try the chisel and circular saw idea. Some of the more rotten pieces came out so it shouldn't be too hard to get a chisel or maybe yard stick down in there to get a measurement. I have cut all of the tabbing out on both sides of the stringers using in combination a saws-all to get the bigger portion and a Dremel Multi-Tool.
 

dillonheath08

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Jun 6, 2014
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Thanks so much for the replies. I don't think I am quite ready to bring out the chainsaw. Haha. I am going to try the chisel and circular saw idea. Some of the more rotten pieces came out so it shouldn't be too hard to get a chisel or maybe yard stick down in there to get a measurement. I have cut all of the tabbing out on both sides of the stringers using in combination a saws-all to get the bigger portion and a Dremel Multi-Tool. That multi-tool has been a lifesaver on this restoration. It makes getting in those tight spot to cut so much easier.

And to think this all started with one soft spot in the deck...

 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 25, 2014
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Oscillating tool (everyone restoring a boat should have one) or angle grinder with a Lancelot Disc. (Just as dangerous as a chain saw, but a little easier to control.)

45814.jpg


Video
 

dillonheath08

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Jun 6, 2014
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My Dremel Multi-Tool is an oscillating tool. Wouldn't take on this restoration without it! I may look into those blades!
 

kcassells

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My Dremel Multi-Tool is an oscillating tool. Wouldn't take on this restoration without it! I may look into those blades!

Stick to the oscillating tools and a grinder with a metal blade/wheel. The grinder is way dangerous enough. That attachment shown is way out of hand and needs to be locked up. Personally I DON'T CARE WHAT ANYONE ELSE HAS TO SAY ABOUT THAT ATTACHMENT.
If I want to cut down a tree then I'll get a chainsaw. It has no business in a boat remodel. If your getting a grinder then get one that turns on and off with your finger on the switch. Alot are available that once you turn it on then it locks. They should be illegal. Show you some scars. Even my landscaper friends won't use it.
I use grinders all the time with my work. This is a tool that you really need to respect!
 

Axkiker

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Nov 18, 2013
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holy crap that is the craziest thing i have ever seen. When I was removing my stringers I cut myself numerous times just using my cut off wheel. I wouldnt have any fingers left if I had used that.
 

sphelps

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You can cut your hands off sawing a log in half with a chainsaw if your a moron with it also . If you can't handle a chainsaw ya probably should not put an angle grinder in your hands either .Or any other tool with a blade . A small little electric chainsaw would work well .
What ever tool ya use just be careful !
 

dillonheath08

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Jun 6, 2014
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I'm gonna get me a set of chisels and see if I can get underneath the pieces and pry them up. I'm pretty steady with a grinder but it doesn't take but a split second for it to slice through that fiberglass. I'll just use the oscillating tool to make relief cuts in the wood and then I'll pry it up using a 1/2" wood chisel
 

dillonheath08

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Jun 6, 2014
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I have already skinned most of my transom so a pour-in transom won't work for me. I think I am just gonna get me set of chisels and try to chisel the pieces out of the hull. I'm sure we all know it only takes a grinder a split second to completely cut through a hull. I am pretty steady with one but we are all subject to making mistakes. One thing that may be a problem with any method of removing the stringers is the left over clue remaining in the groove in the hull. It might make my new stringers too tall or even sit unevenly in the boat. I suppose I will just have to cross that bridge once I get ready for a test fit
 

sphelps

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You can still do a pour in transom if you want . Just a little more pricey . You would have to make a new inner skin then tab it back in before the pour .
 

kcassells

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Hey WOG and Spelps,
I agree with you on the application of a chainsaw in regards to using a pour in transom. The application is perfect and I would do it if I was pouring in a transom.
What I also want to express is that we are working with a very talented fellow that has not enough experience to use a 'CHAIN SAW" GRINDER attachment as shown above, much less a grinder yet.
Dillon will realise after some use with various tools that a typical grinder and blade is a very efficient tool for demo and as well dangerous. Chill out. A freaking chainsaw blade on a grinder for a newb, give me a break.
Dillon your questions are great so keep them coming. Try to link all your posts to 1 thread. The moderator can do that for you.
 

jigngrub

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One thing that may be a problem with any method of removing the stringers is the left over clue remaining in the groove in the hull. It might make my new stringers too tall or even sit unevenly in the boat. I suppose I will just have to cross that bridge once I get ready for a test fit

You'll compensate for any height differences when you fabricate your new stringers. You'll also fabricate them for a 1/8"-1/4" gap between the hull and the bottom of the stringer so you can bed them in with the peanut butter adhesive.

All you have to do is get all the wood out and grind the bottom of the groove to remove any loose material and to roughen it up for bonding purposes.
 
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