It all started with a leaking livewell. boat restore project. 1993 Mirrocraft

jigngrub

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The gasket material in your seams is shot, and this is exactly what Coat-it and Gluvit are designed to fix. Before applying the fix read and follow the prep and application instructions to the "T".
 

Browndog10

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Sealed up the hole with JB Marine, used the left over on some of the other pitting on the inside. That was the only hole I found in the hull. I filled the boat up again with water and to my satisfaction not all of the seal is shot just a few areas. I cleaned up the areas and I am waiting for the coat-it to be delivered. I will prep with naval jelly before I spread it though. Hopefully, we get some good weather and I can have this done this weekend and ready for the foam next week. Meanwhile, tonight I started with the sealing of the floors. not sure on the seat positions so I didnt cut those holes yet. Oh, I did have to remove, clean and reseal the bow eye, it was needing some attention.

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Browndog10

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Getting ready to put some naval jelly on the boat to prep for coat-it and it states not for aluminum? Is there a different kind of naval jelly that I am missing here? I got the loctite stuff.
 

jigngrub

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Read the prep directions on the Coat-it can when it arrives and follow them, I believe you're just supposed to wipe down with lacquer thinner before application.

Pressure washing/scrubbing the inside of the hull won't hurt a thing, scrubbing down the seams with a scotchbrite pad or stainless steel wire brush won't hurt anything either. Just get the inside as clean as you can and forget the naval jelly.
 

Browndog10

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I cleaned with acetone, sanded, wire brushed and got lucky and found some naval jelly for aluminum yesterday. Then I applied the Coat-it and globbed on as much as I could. You have about 30 minutes maybe even shorter in the 80 degree heat. Got her done and covered out of the sun and hoping to test the seals in the next few days.

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Beforehand, on Friday I had to get out with my buddy and stick some pigs.

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This shot was a unintentional but here is his nautolex flooring. I noticed that it is done with screws and not rivets. It is a 17' lund explorer. Its a beautiful boat.

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Browndog10

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Wow that stuff dries pretty hard. For some reason I imagined that it would be more flexible. I think I will test the hull tonight. Hope to start the fun part (putting it back together) this weekend. :)
 

jigngrub

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Coat-it job looks good and it should solve you seam leak problems, let us know how the leak test goes.
 

Browndog10

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Thanks, I just gobbed it all over until I ran out. I probably used more than I needed on areas but I wanted to make sure. I forgot to mention that the foam is on its way! I was at menards the other day and noticed that they have a sea sense 800 GPH auto bilge for 30 bucks. I have seen mixed reviews online. Does anybody have first hand experience with these? I am planning on running dual bilges. Initially, I was going to run my old manual bilge (rule 350 GPH) and my new manual bilge (rule 600 GPH), but after seeing an auto bilge for a nice price I want to run duals with one manual and one auto. I am liking that redundancy.
I also, have a few questions on the floor hole alignment. I would like to hit the same holes as before. Is there an easy trick/tip to hit these right on or should I not even worry about it and just make new ones? The old floor as a template isn’t going to work because its in pieces and quite warped. Its not that big of a deal, just wondering if someone has a quick, clever way to do it, that I haven’t thought of. I thought of doing a cardboard mock or maybe screws in the existing holes and laying the floor and putting pressure on it, then drilling those holes but, both seem like more work than worth it.
 

jigngrub

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Don't even worry about trying to match the holes in the stringers, just make new ones. You can fill the old ones with JB Weld marine or marine epoxy if you want, but I personally wouldn't even do that.

If you're going to use vinyl on the deck with exposed fasteners you'll want your fasteners evenly spaced and in a straight line both front to back and side to side, I doubt the old holes are even close to being evenly spaced or in a straight line one way, let alone both ways.
 

Browndog10

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OK, even though I am using 3/4” plywood do you think I need to fabricate some supports or will I be fine with that center beam and the stringers on the ends? The manufacturer just had some pieces of wood embedded in the foam for side supports. I am thinking it will be fine but that’s my assumption.
 

jigngrub

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I personally would want an aluminum angle "nailer" around the perimeter of the hull to fasten the edges of the plywood to.
 

Browndog10

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Hmmm.... I like that idea but, I am kind of worried how that will affect the side panels that are riveted in the gunwales. I am already making it at least 1/4" higher using the 3/4" plywood and the vinyl. They had 1/2" plywood with razor thin aluminum square pieces for support for the seats underneath. I don'™t know if this was old technology or skimping but seems pretty skimpy to me. I don'™t think that the wood was even protected either, and it definitely wasn'™t user friendly for any repairs and/or mods. Previously if the bilge or live well pump went out you would have had to remove the splash well and the side panel riveted in the hull. I am going to try and modify that. Speaking of that, I was thinking that I will need to remove the decals around the rivets since they may interfere with sealing.
 
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Browndog10

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NO! NO! sorry, I should have rephrased that. They didn't epoxy or protect the wood in any way. I am using marine ply and epoxy resin.
 

Browndog10

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Great News tonight, I filled the boat up and no leaks. Time to start putting her back together. Still have a long way to go but feeling good tonight! Only downside is that the foam wont be here until Monday. I was hoping that I would get it in time to pour this weekend. I will just start finishing the rest of the floor.
 

Browndog10

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So while waiting for the foam I cut all the remaining floor, deck and hatches.

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Sanded and ready for epoxy.
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Foam arrived today hoping to get some done before camping this weekend. What do you recommend to channel off the foam so it doesnt fill the center drain area?
It looks like the manufacturer used some sort of tape.
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Browndog10

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OK so I have everything epoxied and ready for vinyl but I am wondering if I should mount the deck and drill holes first or just vinyl it then mount as I go. Issues I am foreseeing are that if I drill and mount prior to the vinyl, the floor may not line up and pieces may not butt up together flush. However if I vinyl first and the drill/screw or rivet I run the risk of ruining the vinyl if I miss a stringer or drill too deep etc.
 

jigngrub

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All your framing looks pretty big and hard to miss BD.

I vinyl and then fasten, be careful with the drill and take measurements where all of your framing members are. Layout all your holes before you drill from the measurements you have written down, make small dots with a sharpie marker. Use a straight edge to put all your fasteners in a straight line and space them equally for the best appearance when you're done. You want your fasteners to look straight and uniform.

Did you ever do anything with an angle around the perimeter so you can fasten the edge of the deck down at the hull sides?

Have you poured your foam?
 

Browndog10

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I am worried that the angle may raise the floor too high as those compartments along the side are limited out already due to the 3/4" ply and they do get riveted into the side of the boat and floor. i do not like how they are designed at all. I did get the foam in Monday but want a full day to dedicate to it. I usually, if I am lucky get an hr or so a night during the week to work on the boat. Weekends are usually when I can get out there. I did want to do a test pour on the bow tonight but glad I didn't, it rained for quite a bit. So hopefully Sunday since tomorrow we have a family get together. I bought a sheet of 1/2 pink rigid foam to try and dam off the foam so it doesnt block the drainage channel. Also, tossing around the idea of the pvc and/or concocting something with the rigid foam to allow drainage throughout. I would like to have most if not all the foam done by Sunday night and start the vinyl. The only thing that I am certain about the foam is that you have little time and it sticks to everything.
 
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