Need some suggestions for some transom replacement issues.

Roadblock

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Apr 21, 2014
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Couple issues with my recent transom install. Nothing major but I would love some feedback and suggestions. Pictures are below the questions!

1.

I need some suggestions for filling a gap between the edges for splash-well and transom.

The metal plate never touched the transom, it was filled with some type of epoxy that was almost as hard as frigging cement. I had to grind the stuff off the aluminum with a grinding wheel and cup brush.

Anyway now that it's back together, I need to fill the gap. It's a bit too big to fill with 3M 5200.

Thoughts?

2.

I messed up my splash-well drain holes. I used the same process to drill these as I did for ALL of my transom bolt holes and all of the bolt holes lined up give 1/32~1/16 of an inch or so. Nothing I couldn't fix by running a drill bit threw a whole and tossing some West System in for good measure.

My splash-well drains on the other hand, WAY OFF!

I think I found the issue. All of the bolt holds were drilled flat and level to the transom. The splash-well drains however are at a downwards angle due to the angle of the splash-well pan.

My guess is that the 1 inch drain holes were drilled from the inside of the splash-well after all of the aluminum was installed and due to the angle of the pan, the holes were at a weird angle.

My first thought was to fill the holes with some 1 inch oak dowel coated in West System and then re-drill BUT I don't think I could get the holes to line up.

What about using a rounded file to file out the hole til the drains can pass threw splash-well to transom skin and then applying a heavy coat of West System to the inside of the transom drain hole and then filling the empty space with some type of heavy marine grade putty and running a drill back threw to clean the hole out? Then I can coat my splash-well drains with a crap ton of 3M 5200 and install them?

Pretty much both splash-well drains came out looking the same. Left to right, they are pretty much lined up, it's the top to bottom that is off and I believe that is for my above stated reason.

If anyone thinks that theory is wrong, let me know but it's the only thing that makes sense.

Thought?! :)

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jbcurt00

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Not sure I understand the splashwell drain hole alignment, so for now a question:

The problem is the thru hole you drilled in the plywood transom is at a 90* angle to the face of the plywood, but the holes in the inner & outer aluminum transom skin are aligned at a downward angle(from in to out)?

For the gap, I'd by some 1/2" X 1/2" aluminum angle, cut for length, rivet it to the splashwell side, and screw the other side to the transom. If you buy the same thickness angle that the transom cap is made of, you could notch out the transom side of the angle where it'd overlap the transom cap.
 

jigngrub

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For the gap, I'd by some 1/2" X 1/2" aluminum angle, cut for length, rivet it to the splashwell side, and screw the other side to the transom. If you buy the same thickness angle that the transom cap is made of, you could notch out the transom side of the angle where it'd overlap the transom cap.

That^^^^^^^... or you may find that 3/4" angle might be easier to work with. You can buy 3/4" x 1/16" thick angle at Home Depot (they have the 1/2" too).

Fro the drain holes I'd go with a thickened epoxy filler, fill and let set/cure and redrill.
 
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Browndog10

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I am curious on this myself. I haven't drilled mine yet because of this. I cannot see anyway that they are going to be on the money when drilled. I am going to try small drill holes in increments until I get a good idea of what direction they are headed then proceed with the hole saw. Plus at least for mine, the splash well is going to be one of the last things that goes on. I also am wondering that once I get to the hole. If I should use a 1 1/4", 1 1/8" or 1 1/16" hole saw for my 1" drains. I am also contemplating using the pvc drains even though I know that they don't have many fans.
 
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83mulligan

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Feb 7, 2009
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I am curious on this myself. I haven't drilled mine yet because of this. I cannot see anyway that they are going to be on the money when drilled. I am going to try small drill holes in increments until I get a good idea of what direction they are headed then proceed with the hole saw. Plus at least for mine, the splash well is going to be one of the last things that goes on. I also am wondering that once I get to the hole. If I should use a 1 1/4", 1 1/8" or 1 1/16" hole saw for my 1" drains. I am also contemplating using the pvc drains even though I know that they don't have many fans.

get your hands on one of these and it will solve your issues of alignment. Just get the angle right clamp it up and drill.

 

jbcurt00

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The holes drilled THRU the transom, need to be at a RIGHT ANGLE to the transom, NOT parallel to the ground.

Imagine tightening an engine mount bolt & nut against a thru hole that ISN'T 90* to the transom's face. You'll end up w/ 1 side of the nut (the down side) in contact & digging into the plywood, while the up side won't yet be in contact.

The portable drill press will be very helpful to have, but used at a right angle (90*) NOT angled.

The same is true for splashwell drains. You want them 90* to the transom also, for the exact same reason. When you try to flare the tube ends, if you've drilled a hole thats parallel to the ground, the tube will get all distorted & funky shaped, then it won't seal properly.
 

Woodonglass

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Or use a scrap piece of 2x6 and make one of these for a spade bit...

I just drilled the holes to mount my motor using this jig and it worked Perfectly!!!
 

Woodonglass

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Or use a scrap piece of 2x6 and make one of these for a spade bit...

I just drilled the holes to mount my motor using this jig and it worked Perfectly!!!
 

Browndog10

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May 13, 2014
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I didn't have the jig or the drill clamp just used much smaller drill bits and worked my way up in size. I would say that two out of the many were off. Not precise by no means but seemed to work.
 
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